Aftermarket Motor Mounts - A Warning
#26
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
You could be right. I've tried competitions on both sides as well as hockey pucks and they work fine being the same.
This one time I tried only one competition on the side that gets compressed during acceleration and it was not very good, according to the owner of the car. He sprung for a second comp mount and it improved everything.
This one time I tried only one competition on the side that gets compressed during acceleration and it was not very good, according to the owner of the car. He sprung for a second comp mount and it improved everything.
#27
Full Member
Thread Starter
Another relevant observation - I put the new mazda mounts in last night, and when removing what very well may have been the original mounts, the right side one had a white paint mark on it in the same spot! The one from the left didn't, and they were otherwise visually identical (one was a little more squished than the other). That must be what the different part number means - it has a white/silver mark on it
#29
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Another relevant observation - I put the new mazda mounts in last night, and when removing what very well may have been the original mounts, the right side one had a white paint mark on it in the same spot! The one from the left didn't, and they were otherwise visually identical (one was a little more squished than the other). That must be what the different part number means - it has a white/silver mark on it
#31
Waffles - hmmm good
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Got the DEA/MRC mounts from RA today. They measure 4.5 in diameter and ~1.5 in in height. So same as the other RA mounts. I will post up once they are installed, could be a week out from now.
#32
Full Member
Thread Starter
That may be a good point! I did notice one of the ones I took out one wasn't quite centered, figured it was due to age; didn't put it together at the time but one of the new ones was also slightly off-center - figured it was a case of large tolerances for such a big/simple part. Just now put the two together - that could be an intentional offset!
Though, if it is the difference, why would it not fit an automatic -SE? Still seems a bit odd (and I'd imagine the competition mounts are all concentric?)
Though, if it is the difference, why would it not fit an automatic -SE? Still seems a bit odd (and I'd imagine the competition mounts are all concentric?)
#33
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the FC mounts aren't concentric, new, just by a little bit.
i always was under the impression that the Automatic mount was taller, but i've never ordered one to find out.
i always was under the impression that the Automatic mount was taller, but i've never ordered one to find out.
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MM54 (03-22-18)
#35
Waffles - hmmm good
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I'll post up some pics when I get it done. Should be soon.
#36
HeyHeyHey..Its the Goose
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Yeah, I'm about to put them in and it will be close. If its too close, I'll do the same and trim it a bit. Even it touches it shouldn't be a big issue since its the fixed part of the mount that is attached engine itself, so no chance for much movement to cause an issue. It looks like it will raise the front of the engine 1/4 inch or so which may cause my strut bar to hit the pulley on my alternator but I can fix that by moving the strut bar or slightly smaller belts.
I'll post up some pics when I get it done. Should be soon.
I'll post up some pics when I get it done. Should be soon.
#37
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
So, just to add some notes here. I'll post up pics later. Beside the size issues mentioned, I found 2 more fitment issues in my case.
1. The rubber molded around the mount needed to be trimmed to reuse the lower cup from the original mounts. I don't know the exact name for this part but its the cup thats inverted and resides under the bell of the mount. It has striated rubber around its outer edge. Anyway, I couldn't mate it to the new mounts because of the extra rubber flashing around the bottom edge of the new mount. So trimmed it with an razor and all was good, except it wasn't.
2. This same lower cup would not seat flat to the new mount after trimming the rubber. Seems the bolt from the new mount has a slight shoulder on it, so I can to ream out the lower cups hole to make it slide all the way so it seated flat to the new mount.
I imagine the lower cup is a safety device for when the rubber fails. It will still hold the motor mount in place due to the bell surrounding it with the weight of the engine on it. Probably could do without it but figured the mazda engineers had a reason for using them.
Oh and I will have to trim the drivers side mounts bell to clear the oil pan. Did a test fit last night and it was no go until I trim with a cutoff tool.
1. The rubber molded around the mount needed to be trimmed to reuse the lower cup from the original mounts. I don't know the exact name for this part but its the cup thats inverted and resides under the bell of the mount. It has striated rubber around its outer edge. Anyway, I couldn't mate it to the new mounts because of the extra rubber flashing around the bottom edge of the new mount. So trimmed it with an razor and all was good, except it wasn't.
2. This same lower cup would not seat flat to the new mount after trimming the rubber. Seems the bolt from the new mount has a slight shoulder on it, so I can to ream out the lower cups hole to make it slide all the way so it seated flat to the new mount.
I imagine the lower cup is a safety device for when the rubber fails. It will still hold the motor mount in place due to the bell surrounding it with the weight of the engine on it. Probably could do without it but figured the mazda engineers had a reason for using them.
Oh and I will have to trim the drivers side mounts bell to clear the oil pan. Did a test fit last night and it was no go until I trim with a cutoff tool.
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MM54 (03-27-18)
#38
Instrument Of G0D.
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Hey guysI've found a couple alternatives I thought i might share, There are a toyota landcruiser mount and a land rover mount that are both about 36mm thick and 76mm diameter. The toyota one has a captive nut on one end and a male thread on the other, both m12x1.25 the LandRover one has a 3/8 UNF male thread both ends.
#39
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Hey guysI've found a couple alternatives I thought i might share, There are a toyota landcruiser mount and a land rover mount that are both about 36mm thick and 76mm diameter. The toyota one has a captive nut on one end and a male thread on the other, both m12x1.25 the LandRover one has a 3/8 UNF male thread both ends.
BTW, got mine all installed and the engine sits about 3/8 higher at the front. I have to swap in shorter belts to pull the alternator down a bit. Did trim the drives side bell some to get this in. Pics coming soon.
#40
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Heres pictures documenting what I did.
Size comparisons of the new (right) and the old (left)
With the rubber flashing remove from the botttom of the mount and the hole on the bottom cap reamed to fit over the shoulder on the lower mount stud.
1st attempt to get the mount to fit the drivers side.
Second cut to get it to fit.
Size comparisons of the new (right) and the old (left)
With the rubber flashing remove from the botttom of the mount and the hole on the bottom cap reamed to fit over the shoulder on the lower mount stud.
1st attempt to get the mount to fit the drivers side.
Last edited by t_g_farrell; 03-28-18 at 09:55 AM.
#41
Instrument Of G0D.
iTrader: (1)
No links but they look like this. Toyota on the left, Land Rover on the right. I lied about the diameter, they are both a touch over 2.5" and about 36mm tall. The toyota one is about 1mm taller again, plus another 5mm for the captive nut.
Was under the car contemplating putting them in yesterday - i currently have polyurethane "hockey puck style" mounts on both the engine and gearbox.
#43
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Nice find ****. Thanks.
Hopefully this thread will help others that get the RA mounts from now on. I'm tempted to point the RA folks at it to see the issue as well. Not sure they will do anything but its worth the shot.
#45
Out In the Barn
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TG - Those DEA mounts just like the WESTAR EM8055 ones I bought recently.
I looked back through my Rock Auto purchase history and the DEA ones I bought back in 2015 looked like factory ones. I didn't have any issues and used the factory lower cup. Now I'm scared to even buy the DEA ones.
I looked back through my Rock Auto purchase history and the DEA ones I bought back in 2015 looked like factory ones. I didn't have any issues and used the factory lower cup. Now I'm scared to even buy the DEA ones.
#46
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
TG - Those DEA mounts just like the WESTAR EM8055 ones I bought recently.
I looked back through my Rock Auto purchase history and the DEA ones I bought back in 2015 looked like factory ones. I didn't have any issues and used the factory lower cup. Now I'm scared to even buy the DEA ones.
I looked back through my Rock Auto purchase history and the DEA ones I bought back in 2015 looked like factory ones. I didn't have any issues and used the factory lower cup. Now I'm scared to even buy the DEA ones.
#47
Full Member
Thread Starter
This is great information - like t_g_farrell said, hopefully this will help people out going forward (which was the hope when I first posted - learn from others' mistakes! for more chance to learn from my getting-screwed, see my brake drum post ) - when I returned my westar mounts I mentioned that I had more information available (rockauto limits you to about 100 characters for "why" when returning something) but never heard back.