I recently got an 84 GSL-SE to run after sealing all the vacuum leaks.

Started her, warmed her up, and took her out on a drive - including 70 mph on the freeway, for three days straight.

On day four I didnt have, nor did I spend the time I ahould have, warming her up. I just stated her, let her run for 60 secs or so and turned her off.

I went out of town for a few days. Now, she won't run.

1. Battery is on charger every night and has good voltage

2. Coils are new

3. Wires and plugs are new

4. Fluids are full - including an oil change last month

5. New fuel filter and pump

6. Had the injectors professionally tested - to OEM standards, and cleaned

7. Timing was set/confirmed at smog shop

8. Did a compression test (with a piston compression tester), L1 and L2 readings both averaged 92

I pulled the feed and return fuel lines and have confirmed fuel is flowing through rail and back to tank

Car was running fine, now only cranks.

What am I missing?

 

Did you try the deflood procedure?


Quote:
Originally Posted by rotor motor 85
To Deflood An gsl-se just pull the engine fuse under the drivers side part of the dash.it is the third one on the left(i think) anyway read the diagram on your fuse box cover

step 1= pull engine fuse

step 2= crank car for about 10 seconds(you may need a jumpstart box or battery charger if you have a weak battery

step 3=put fuse back in

step 4=start car

 

You ran it for 60 seconds and shut it off? Carbon locked seals. (*search)

 

Finally got her running.🎉🎉🎉

Disconnected fuel pump.

Disconnected coils.

Pulled all plugs.

Charged battery.

De-flooded for 15 sec five or six times throughout the day.

In L1 and L2, squirt and hand-turn, squirt and hand-turn.

Bought new NGK plugs and lubed them up with the oil mix.

Gave her a crank and she wanted to race out the garage door.🤣

My messin with air/fuel mixture and TPS screws got her stalling if I'm not on the accelerator; 1800 rpm or so keeps her going., or else she stalls.

Tons of white smoke, that cleared after a few minutes.

Smoke in the engine bay. So, as I believe you suggested, I may have an exhaust leak.

But at least she's running.🎉🎉🎉

 

Glad to hear it's running, it's always a great feeling when the car is running!

 

Got her starting and running three days straight.

However, she won't hold idle. I have to keep pressure on the accelerator to keep her from stalling.

Which one of the screw under the hood do I need to adjust to get the idle to OEM (750 - 800 rpm)?

 

Set the TPS with the two led box you can build first. It's an art adjusting the GSL-SE with all the adjusting screws.

 

Before you start adjusting anything do have a Mazda shop manual for the the car? You can can find "step by step" instructions adjusting the idle on your GSL-SE (section 4B, page 64) however, adjusting things without using the manual can lead to additional headaches. As KanasCity REPU mentioned above the first step is to ensure the TPS is properly adjusted prior to adjusting the idle by using the "air adjust screw (AAS). I have attached photos from the manual for these procedures and I hope it's of some help, also there's a note at the bottom of the idle adjustment page concerning the "idle mixture" adjustment that's cut off in my photo. What the note says is that unless you are replacing the "variable resistor" or replacing the engine adjustments are not usually necessary.

TPS Adjustment

Idle Adjustment

 

Idid the two ohm meter test. I did get a reading on one of the meters.

I did the throttle opening test.

It was unclear to me whether that test should be down with the car running or off.

I did it with the car warmed up but off.

With the mechanism at degault idle position the readinff is 1.3; with the throttle wide ope the reading is 1.0.

 

Finally got her to idle at 750 running, by adjusting the TPS, air fuel mixture screw and cruise /throttle cable nut.🤓👍🏾

 

Glad you were able to get it straightened out, the TPS adjustment is done when the car has warmed to operating temperature and is shutoff (note step 1. in the TPS adjustment procedure.)

 

👍🏾

That's what I did.

 

Had to bring my GSL-SE back to life again this morning.

Started her, and because she's still smoking like a chimney, tried to slow roll her out the garage and she stalled.

Flooded again.😮‍💨

Spent an hour deflooding, oil/mix squirting, and hand-cranking.

She fired right up.

Current issue, 'cold start' idle rpm.

Unless I'm on the accelerator she won't keep running until she is warmed up.

Once warm she is holding at around 900 rpm.

Any thoughts on cold start rpm, that will allow me to start her and she cold idle (2000 rpm or so) automatically until warm and not stall?

 

What is the engine idling at on cold start? It should have an accelerated warmup idle of about 2000 rpm and will slowly drop down to around 800 rpm when at normal operating temperature. Makes me think there's a vacuum issue or an issue with the thermowax.

 

Yep.

I agree with all you've said.

She didn't run when I bought her.

Once I brought her back to life.she was racing to 4000+ rpm.

I've sealed all the vacuum leaks, and made FM based adjustments to the TPS, air fuel mixture, and cruise/accelerator cable.

Now she fires right up, no longer races to high rpm.

On cold start she won't default to 2000-ish during warm-up without my assistance on the accelerator.

Once warm she idles at around 900 rpm.

 

Have you check the Fast Idle Operation?

On a cold motor. it should rev up to 3k for about 3/ or mins, once warmed up the thermowax plunger extends and kicks the cam off the roller.

 

The first image is the cam.in the car - cold and before start.

The second shot is of a cam I have on my bench.

The one in the car seeme within range.

Your thoughts?🤔🧐