OK guy I have a 84 gs stock port as far as I know that I bought off a 17yr old kid in Peoria it has the holley carb kit on from racing beat I have already fixed a regulator plumbing issue it was routed sending 10psi fuel pressure to the carb fixed that issue and went to retune the carb that I have done plenty of times before on piston engines hooked up my matco vacuum gauge to manifold and was showing no vacuum at all at idle would get to bout 5psi of vacuum at 1500rpms but that is it. I have searched and cannot find the answer I am looking for. Question 1. Would should vacuum be at idle. 2. How does everyone tune there Holley's on rotary's thanks in advanced for an and all comments

 

Normally at idle vacuum is around the 20 inhg mark pretty much just like any engine. You probably
have a big leak somewhere. If you are sure the Holley is from RB, then it should be pretty
easy but others on here can give first hand experience on tuning them. They are challenging
even with the RB mods.

BTW, it may say RB on the intake manifold but the carb may not be a RB supplied unit. We've
seen folks try to do the holley thing on their own to avoid the RB tax. So beware.

If you can, get a stock nikki and intake, modify it (hog it out) and have a much better
performing solution which is very driveable as well. The holley is probably not worth the
hassle.

 

Unfortunately I don't a stock intake n Nikki so I am trying to get this running for the wife for autox do you know how to tell if it is rb holley

 

I don't but there have been posts on here where it has been discussed. You can search RB
holley or wait for folks to post the info here.

 

Post a picture of the linkage on the side of the carb, I have three of them and that's an easy tell.

 

Will do that when I get home thanks

 

I just went through a similar inquiry myself. Called racing beat and they ask you to send them pictures of the front and back of the carb. They can tell instantly. Mine has not run quite right since Ive had the car (which the setup from RB came with). I am very ready to throw my stock nikki on there from my other car.

Not to change the subject here...but what is the difference in size in the stock intake and the racing beat one? Would be nice to keep the RB intake

 

Bolt pattern is different on the RB for the holley versus the nikki. Also I think the
holley is open plenum which may not work well with a nikki if you could get it
bolted up to it somehow.

 

 

Yes, it's a racing beat carb.
So far on all 3 of mine I've had to pull the 49 primary jets out and replace them with 55.
Jim tanner from racing beat and I went back and forth on my first one and finally we figured out that there just too lean for out here on the east coast, put 55 jets in it and it runs perfect, and gets about 20-22mpg on the highway, that's what I got going to dgrr a couple weeks ago.

 

Its actually not that they are "too lean" on the east coast. Its a problem in the metering body with the activation of the power valve. By jetting up to 55, youre giving the carb the full enrichment all the time.

Pull the damn power valve from that carb with your 55's in it and youll feel no difference at all, it barely even shows on the wideband.

 

Well I had to do the same thing on my 600dp Holley from racing beat for my gslse 6 port as well, except instead of 55 it came with, I think 59 or 60 I'd have to double check, and put 65 in it and it runs great actually better than when efi. And it didn't come with a power valve it had a plug from the start.
And as long as they start and run as good as they do now, you couldn't pay me to touch them lol

 

The problem is that Holley changed the casting slightly for the power valve channel.

It no longer references both primary barrels, and just has 1 slot leading down to rotor 2. Rotor 2's vacuum does not stay steady from where its referenced because its a closed plenum.

If the 2 primary barrels fed together, it would be a rock steady vacuum, and would mean that the power valve would have a nice steady vac level to be referenced from.