1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

'83 12A Oil Pan Removal

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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 11:33 AM
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'83 12A Oil Pan Removal

Need to change the gasket on a leaking oil pan. Looks fairly straight forward, but I've never done one. Any tips, tricks or things to avoid? Thanks in advance!
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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 12:52 PM
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Remove the idler arm from the passenger side to get access so the pan can be removed. I just did this two months ago. If you have an engine list, you can also unbolt the engine cross member from the engine mount isolaters to get a couple more inches of clearance.

Most of the bolt can be removed with a socket except a couple of the drivers side.

When putting it back together, make sure the surface of the engine and pan is clean and that there isn't and old RTV in the bolt holes. I like to use a gasket with a little bit of black RTV sealant on both sides. Make sure not the get RTV in the bolt holes. The RTV also helps keep the gasket in place. It can be a little tricky getting the pan in place without disturbing the gasket and RTV but it cn be done.

Whatever you do, do not over tighten the pan bolts.

Last edited by KansasCityREPU; Oct 24, 2015 at 12:55 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 01:30 PM
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I resealed my oil pan earlier this summer when I replaced my steering components from end to end. I used RTV ultra black (for oil applications) as well, but opted against using a gasket. KCRepu covered the most important points, make sure everything is clean and do not over tighten the bolts! I purchased an inch pound torque wrench just for this job, but the torque was so low I could barely hear the click, so be careful! No leaks out of mine. I have also seen lots of people recommend 'the right stuff.'
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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 10:32 PM
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I also used the ultra gasket black tube, and did this as a two part process: put a thin head down, install gasket over bead, then put another bead down on the gasket before tightening only finger tight. Let it sit for a day, and then snug down to torque spec. Which is VERY light. No leaks.

This also requires that you clean the pan and engine interface very well to avoid any hunk messing up your seal. I like to use denatured alcohol to make sure all oil and grease is cleared off.
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 05:38 PM
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Thanks fellas for the input!
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Old Mar 13, 2021 | 11:40 PM
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Question for anybody that removed the oil pan this way, how did you reach the bolts in the front.
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Old Mar 14, 2021 | 04:13 PM
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The ones in the front are a little tricky. You have to use a hoist to get the engine up enough without putting stress on everything connected to the engine. Unbolt the cross member for the mounts. Then use a wrench. It's fiddly. Putting the pan back on can be difficult even with two people. One to hold the pan and the other person to start bolts in a few places to hold it up. The ones in front are the hardest. Do not over tighten the bolts.

I don't know if converting the bolts to studs would make it any easier.
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Old Mar 14, 2021 | 05:35 PM
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Thanks, I got 'em.
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