toddk042

iTrader: (1)

I've tracked down my oil leak, and need to know ways to fix it.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

It's called the leak of death. You may come up with creative ways of delaying it, but the "fix" for it is a rebuild.

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

Well that is disappointing. I don't think have the space to pull the engine and rebuild it, plus I've never done that. I am both interested and terrified of trying though.

Does this require getting an engine stand and engine hoist? I'll have to google if those are rent-able.

I took a look at Atkins and they have a 79-85 12A Rx7 Engine Gasket Kit (N201-89-100B) and some other seals not included in that kit. Will have to do some more research.

Thanks for identifying it.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

There was a very detailed write up that involves taping in a small hole, filling the area around the o-ring at this joint (that is failing) with a sealer.
My choice:
Golden Eagle Brand: Stop Leak
or
STP Engine Stop Leak
Several positive referrals here got me to try this with my FRONT rotor housing dowel leak (same spot as yours on front housing).
I figured since a rebuild is the only other option, what is there to lose? So I added this...8 yrs ago? Still has a very minor weep, but
still running the original 12A as as sweet as ever...

Stu Aull
80GS
AZ

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Or clean it off and monitor it while living with it. This is what I do n my 80. It has some seepage there and I don't bother with it. The engine runs great. and barely looses any oil at all. A drop on the garage floor every now and again.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

This!

I guess I didn't mention it earlier because it's not a fix, per se ... actually, not at all. However, you need to determine how much oil you're losing in a known amount of time and take it from there. I lived with one of those leaks for quite some time. I've had it on two, maybe three, engines over the years and was never moved to tear them apart for that sole reason.

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

I can monitor it, but I can actually watch it seep. there has.been a leak for three weeks now, and when I had the oil changed, the manager said it was leaking from the oil pan seal. I think it was actually just leaking so much it just drips from there.

I may have another problem though, will post a new thread about it after I try a couple of things.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

If you can actually watch it seep out when the engine is running then there is no monitoring it and living with it. Its time to remove the engine and rebuild it or replace it.

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

I am thinking this whole dowel as segments thing is a design flaw. I did find on Pinapple Express a single length hollow dowel, so that you still have the oil gallery.
what do you all think about that?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

even with one long dowel pin, u will still have an O-ring at each end, leaking just like that.

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

The rebuild has started. I started taking things off while the engine is still in the car because i didn't have crane. Found one and engine stand on OfferUp for $150. I've got the kit from Atkins and the engine stand adapter.
Learning as I go along.
Oh, What is the size of bolts required to mount the engine to the stand? I thing the four bolts that came with the adapter are to attach the adapter to the stand.

Cool tip, puppy pads are great for handling all the dripping of oil and antifreeze.

Engine Stripping

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Unbolt your ac condenser from the rad supports leaving the lines. Unbolt the ac compressor and let it sit lower. pull the condenser forward into the nose. This way the engine can't swing into the condenser.

There are a couple of ways guys like to remove the engine. One is by unblothing it from the trans. The other to pull the engine and trans as a unit. I also like to keep as much stuff on the engine as possible.

I like to pull the engine/trans as a unit. I hate mating the together in the car.

Make sure to either plug the trans output or drain the trans fluid. Even if you drain it, it will leak.

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

You can't see from the photo but the ac compressor is already disconnected. The ac compressor went out a long time ago. That is a project for another time.
I'll move the ac radiator. Thanks.
I am not planning on pulling the transmission unless a 5 speed magically appears to swap out the 4 speed

Toruki

This will be an interesting thread. Please do keep us up to date as you progress. You probably want to remove the hood sooner rather than later .

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

Got the hood off, need to get the exhaust and starter, and ac radiator

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

Went crawling under the car tonight. Have got most of the bolts and nuts on the exhaust off. The others are pb blaster soaking.

Got a couple of questions, with photos.
The starter is supposed to be held on by two bolts, right? I got one bolt loose, but the other appears to have its head broke off.
I cannot get the starter off. I tried prying and can get the side with the good bolt to lift.

The other is a concern, I'm not planning to pull the transmission, but the rear engine hanger (?) Is attached by a bolt holding the engine and transmission together. How does the hanger stay attached?

gtpdz

Did you make sure you look at the other side of the engine housing where the started is bolted on? One bolt goes in from the starter side threads into the engine block and the other bolt goes in from the engine side and threads into the starter...

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

The rear engine hook bolt does not have threads in the transmission. This is why there is a nut on the back side. The purpose of this bolt is for engine install alignment AND so the hook can be attached to the engine. The rear iron has the threads for this bolt Just take the nut off

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

Got the starter off. Got the three nuts off the back of the reactor and the two holding the pipe on the bottom. The smaller pipes are also disconnected.
I cannot get the two nuts off the pre-silencer. I used my electric impact wrench and that didn't work.
Also, the exhaust pipes attached to the reactor at a 90 degrees from each other and are connected to each other so there does not seem to be a way disengage them. See pic. It's kind of hard to see.

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

I took a propane torch to the nuts on the presilencer. worked on one. gave up and took my dremel to the other one.
i removed what looked like heat protective cloth, and found the compression bolt holding the lower pipe to the main pipe. jb blaster and the torch and it would not budge. I Took a dremel to that too, which I know will be an issue later as I cant put that nut back together. ​​​​​​​

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

Trying to hoist the engine, but my crane arm is not long enough. I either run into the bumper, or the fender. I could pull the pin and slide the arm out some more, but I'm not sure about that. The arm only goes past the pin about an inch. Any ideas?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Don't pull the pin. I think your're only option is to either get a different crane or pull the front bumper. I've heard/read about people having issues with cranes not being long enough. I'm not sure why they make some of then so short.

Also, tuck that AC condenser up into the nose. You will dent it.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

the lift is supposed to come in from the front of the car not the side.

toddk042

iTrader: (1)

The first picture is from the front. Because the crane does not get the hoist chain(?) directly above the engine, It pulls the crane into the front of the car, smashing the bumper. I was able to get closer to directly overhead from the side, but it still wasn't long enough. I watched a couple of videos on youtube, and it looks like those cranes are 2 ton and have a longer reach. Mine is only 1 ton. I understand the mechanics of a lever, but having to get a 2 ton crane to lift a 200lb (~1/8ton) engine didn't cross my mind.

Something else crossed my mind, while I have the engine off, I think I should replace the clutch, since it has 87k on it. I have no plans on racing, is ok?

GSLSEforme

Try a couple things 1st before looking to get another lift. Disconnect and move hoist away from car and turn the ram 180 degrees which puts the pump handle on the opposite side and will allow hoist to get a couple inches closer to car. Put some cardboard between fender and hoist and while you're at it,put another piece over front of condenser. You'll thank me when the engine pops free and swings forward...

Shorten up your connecting chain and the chains on the load leveler,this will put the boom lower. As the boom raises,it goes thru an arc which effectively shortens its length. These two things may give you just enough to do what you need.

If not,how much of inner tube is in outer tube of boom when in extended position? I have on more than one occasion drilled a pair of holes in outer boom 2.5"-3" closer to the end which allows about the same more extension of inside tube,maybe just enough for what you need.
This lessens the lifting weight a bit on hoist and i would never do this trying to lift a V8 engine or engine/trans combo but a stripped rotary engine doesn't weigh any where near that.