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I don't have any experience with that brand clutch kit. My thoughts are this" 1) you get what you pay for
2) you see what's involved to get to the clutch. Don't want to do this job twice,stick with name brands.
LUK,Exedy,both part# 10025 are good quality parts without breaking the bank. RockAuto has them both in stock for only $25 more than the one you see on Amazon. Exedy was manufacturer of clutch that came in your car originally.
You'll want to have your flywheel resurfaced for a smooth long lasting clutch job. Need to source a grease seal for pilot bearing in e shaft on engine,they don't come in most clutch kits. Make sure pilot bearing is correct by sliding it onto input shaft of transmission BEFORE installing it in engine,have seen incorrect bearing come in kits before and guided a couple members here on how to extract wrong,jammed bearing out of e shaft. Another job you do not want to do more than once. There is a pilot bearing removal tool needed to remove the old bearing and a tool to install the new bearing and seal but this is not mandatory to install the bearing/seal.
The Lowe's near me is going out of business, so I picked up a couple 4ft sections of 3/16 angle iron. each one is thicker than the metal on the crane. They stack nicely within the extension arm of the crane. It looks like two Vs or chevrons with the pointy part facing down.
I also picked up some stainless steel nuts and bolts for various parts on the car that I either had to cut off because of corrosion, or they where rusted beyond belief.
I did a clutch job on my 83 GSL 12A this past Summer, photos and parts list in the thread. Super easy with the support of the very experienced folks here!
My extension for the crane / cherry picker is holding the weight, and I can lift the engine off the engine mount bolts, but I an unable to separate the engine from the transmission.
I have placed a jack under the transmission to hold its weight. I have removed the two bottom bolts, the top bolt on the passenger side. The nut that is on the transmission side of the hanger bolt, and the two bolts that holt the start on.
Any thoughts on what I'm missing?
Did you remove the hidden bolt that gets covered by the starter? Separating them does take some wiggling. This is why I like to take the trans out with engine.
Mating the engine/tran while the trans is in the car can be a bear. It takes some wiggling/twisting of the trans or engine when doing it this way. When you pull them together this process is much easier.
Hazzah! I checked and I did have all the bolts out. So, out of a bit of desperation, I setup a lever/wedge to separate the engine from the transmission. I used the access cover bolt as a hinge and two crescent wrenches to pry with. The first attempt sheared the bolt (see pic). I put in a replacement stainless steel bolt, and on the second attempt they separated. I'll pull the engine tomorrow.
So, a quick update. I have the engine off and disassembled. I'm happy to say that the condition of the housings, bearings, and apex seals are great. There is a lot of carbon build up. No metal flakes in the oil pan.
I hadn't seen it mentioned, but like the oil pump, there is a bent washer on the flywheel nut.
just before starting this, there was a grinding noise whether driving or at stop. The water pump has a definite metal on metal sound when I spin it by hand. I'm going to replace it, just to be safe.
The inner water seal seems to be three separate seals. There did not seem to be any gasket sealer on the "legs" of the bottom of the engine.
I'm cleaning everything up, as the outside of the engine was caked with old oil. I'd like to paint the sections, so I'm trying to get them grease free.
Here are some photos to go along with the text.
11-22-18, 11:18 AM
