1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

79 engine 83 trans what year clutch parts and flywheel?

Old May 10, 2010 | 01:51 PM
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79 engine 83 trans what year clutch parts and flywheel?

firebirdslayer666 told me a few months ago but i cant remember. the engine is a 79 and the trans is an 83 and my clutch is staring to slip so i need to know what parts i need to replace and what year they need to be for. i would assume the flywheel needs to be for a 79 but ill probably just have the factory one resurfaced.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 03:29 PM
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You always match the flywheel to the engine/rotors. 79 takes a 215 mm clutch.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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ok so do i match the clutch to the engine or the trans?
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Old May 10, 2010 | 04:30 PM
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To the flywheel. The early 7s took a 215 mm clutch.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 04:43 PM
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k so i need a clutch for a 79. so should i just replace the clutch or do i need to replace the pressure plate, throw out bearing, ect?
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Old May 10, 2010 | 06:25 PM
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Buy an Exedy kit on ebay. A little over $100 for the whole shabang. Everything you need. It will be a slight improvement over the factory clutch.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NCross
Buy an Exedy kit on ebay. A little over $100 for the whole shabang. Everything you need. It will be a slight improvement over the factory clutch.
ok and i can use a full kit for a 79 even though my trans is an 83?
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Old May 10, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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Yes, all the first gen flywheels are the same outer diameter. It's the disc contact surface diameter that's different.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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i probably will go with an exedy from ebay. does anybody have any idea what its gonna cost to have the clutch kit installed and to have my flywheel resurfaced?
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Old May 11, 2010 | 01:32 AM
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unless you do it your self . you will be looking at about $$400
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Old May 11, 2010 | 01:42 AM
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I wish I could do it myself but I don't really have a place to do it nor do I have a trans Jack. So it's gonna be about $500 after the price of the clutch kit. That's like 1/4 the cost of a TII swap from eBay! Wish I could just save up the money for the TII!
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Old May 11, 2010 | 04:17 PM
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you could just pull the engine and trans as a unit.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by NCross
you could just pull the engine and trans as a unit.
Just to change the clutch?
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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:25 PM
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You don't need a special jack for the transmission. Just a jack on the bell housing and a jack stand on the tail shaft. Pop it loose and lower it. It only weighs maybe 50 pounds once drained.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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You don't even need a jack, I've done it a couple times with just my hands. If you want to make it real easy get someone to help you, one on the bellhousing and another on the tailshaft and it'll be out in no time. I find it's easier to put it back in by hand too, easier to line up the shaft than with a jack.
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Old May 11, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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I might just try to do it myself in my sister garage. That'll save me some money. What trans fluid is recomended? Can I get the gasket that goes between the engine and trans from an auto parts store?
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Old May 11, 2010 | 10:36 PM
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Also is it a problem that I don't have a torque wrench? Or can I just tighten the crap out of the trans bolts with a ratchet?
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Old May 12, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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There is no gasket between the engine and trans, unless you're talking about the seal on the input shaft of the tranny, which doesn't need to be replaced unless it looks like it's leaking.

Shouldn't be a problem without a torque wrench, the only thing you might want one for is the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. But you should be fine just using blue loctite and tightening evenly.

Good luck getting the flywheel nut off unless you have a good impact wrench. Torque spec is 300-350ft/lbs I've done it with a long pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar, but you need the car nice and high to have room to turn the pipe. If there's no bluing and the surface looks okay on the flywheel you can just scuff it up a bit with sandpaper/scotch brite pad.
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Old May 12, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeNoble
I wish I could do it myself but I don't really have a place to do it nor do I have a trans Jack. So it's gonna be about $500 after the price of the clutch kit. That's like 1/4 the cost of a TII swap from eBay! Wish I could just save up the money for the TII!
The TII swap might cost $2000, but getting someone to install it will cost also. Replacing a clutch is a good place to learn how to wrench on a 7. Trochoid and I replaced the clutch in my 1986 RX-7 a few weeks back and we did not pull the engine. All we used was four good quality jack stands.
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by coldy13
Good luck getting the flywheel nut off unless you have a good impact wrench. Torque spec is 300-350ft/lbs I've done it with a long pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar, but you need the car nice and high to have room to turn the pipe. If there's no bluing and the surface looks okay on the flywheel you can just scuff it up a bit with sandpaper/scotch brite pad.
Anybody got a pic of the nut that coldy13 is talkin about? is it the one that holds the flywheel to the engine?
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 09:51 PM
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Yes, it is the nut that holds the flywheel on. No pic needed. It's the big 2 1/8" (54mm) nut. If you don't pull the engine when replacing the clutch plan on having an impact gun with a big compressor handy. I cranked my 80 gallon compressor to 150 pounds and the impact gun took the nut right off.
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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so if i dont need to remove the flywheel then i dont have to worry about that bolt right?
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by coldy13
There is no gasket between the engine and trans, unless you're talking about the seal on the input shaft of the tranny, which doesn't need to be replaced unless it looks like it's leaking.

Shouldn't be a problem without a torque wrench, the only thing you might want one for is the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. But you should be fine just using blue loctite and tightening evenly.

Good luck getting the flywheel nut off unless you have a good impact wrench. Torque spec is 300-350ft/lbs I've done it with a long pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar, but you need the car nice and high to have room to turn the pipe. If there's no bluing and the surface looks okay on the flywheel you can just scuff it up a bit with sandpaper/scotch brite pad.
Get a cheapy torque wrench from harbour freight (they have nice stuff - cheap)...

Scott
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 01:05 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by coldy13
You don't even need a jack, I've done it a couple times with just my hands. If you want to make it real easy get someone to help you, one on the bellhousing and another on the tailshaft and it'll be out in no time. I find it's easier to put it back in by hand too, easier to line up the shaft than with a jack.
last time i did one, i put the car as high as i could, put the trans on the floor jack, and got it close and then just did the rest by hand.

the trans is like 70lbs, so if you can do a few pushups its not hard....
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