1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

75-80 Rpm

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Old Jun 8, 2002 | 01:34 AM
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From: Seguin, Texas
75-80 Rpm

No joke... today my engine was turning (no ac or choke) at about 165-180 RPM for about 10 seconds... it was ALMOST dead... i just sat there and let the vacuum catch back up (since it was neat hearing my engine slow down that much...).

What is the cause for that... sometimes it idles at 1100RPM (that's where I like it...) sometimes at 600 RPM (a tad too low... tends to stall really easily), and then this problem. I do know my accel pump is leaking gas..


The reason I like the 1100RPM is because when the carb/engine doesn't catch, it doesn't die... if I were to set the idle to 850 (where it is supposed to be) then the engine would stall when it wasn't idling good (aka 400RPM... and stall).

Lemme know...
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Old Jun 8, 2002 | 02:26 AM
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From: San Luis Obisbo, California
hmm thats weird...

on my parents lawn mower, if you put the throttle all the way to low and pull the cord slowly the engine will start and sort of idle at what seems like less than 200rpm kind of like a brap swish swish swish brap swish swish etc... its really quiet too hmm werid stuff mannn
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Old Jun 8, 2002 | 03:16 AM
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yea, it's wierd... it was in "drive" as well (automatic tranny). What would cause me to have "2 sets" of idles? I am guessing it's hidden in the F&*KING RATS NEST
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Old Jun 8, 2002 | 06:45 AM
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A lot of cars do that - change idle when the car is shifted into drive. My old Jeep went from about 500RPMs down to 250RPMs when I put it into reverse or drive.
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Old Jun 8, 2002 | 06:59 AM
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From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
I'm not too familiar with automatics, but I think there are dashpots and **** on the carb specifically to lower the idle when you put it in gear.
Anyway, if your accelerator pump is leaking, it may be time for a rebuild. It might cure your ills, I dunno.
You can try gently tightening the four screws around the accelerator pump housing (They strip real easy!!!).
That's not gonna do anything for your idle, though. Perhaps tighten the 'carb housing - to - throttle body' bolts (four) as well as the 'carb - to - manifold' bolts.

You should not be stalling with an idle @ 750 if the carb is properly tuned. You could have the idle set at 750, but the mixture so lean that there's no power, and it stalls out.
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Old Jun 8, 2002 | 11:40 AM
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No, the idle speed drops when you put it in gear because you put the engine under load. That's all.
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Old Jun 8, 2002 | 11:45 AM
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That's right peejay.
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Old Jun 9, 2002 | 05:55 PM
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Now if you could get a higher stall converter it wouldn't do that. By the way are there high stall converters for these??
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Old Jun 9, 2002 | 06:13 PM
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From: Seguin, Texas
I don't know, but these Nikki's for automatics are trash... 1000's of little things here and there for shiftingright and ****...
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Old Jun 9, 2002 | 11:05 PM
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From: Kamloops BC Canada
Change auto to standard... will fix all problems *Ducks and Runs*
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