These things are a nightmare.. I was fiddling with one and it'll slide down away from the metal piece that stops it (I'm guessing it's the "fully closed" position), and when I slid the sucker, it would move and stay there (and not pop back into place).

Thing is, the pipe going to the cat isn't connected anymore, whatever the previous owner did I have no clue... so at any rate.. it seems like it's possible to have one of the 6th ports open, and the other closed (if they stick).. is this correct? That seems like it could be a very dangerous proposition for the engine.

 

Yes its possible , and no it won't really do anything but mess up your performance. If they are really sticky you can just wire both in the open (down) position. You can try various ways of lubrication/ solvents but the only way to truly be done with it is to remove the lower manifold and pull 'em out and really clean everything up and lube them before you put them together. It sounds like there is just too much carbon in there.

 

How couldn't it hurt anything? Imagine:

Both closed: say 500 CFM
Both open: say 750 CFM

Now, imagine the rear rotor port is open, front is closed. Now it flows about 625 CFM. The air fuel meter guesses they're both about half open, and injects fuel properly. The front rotor runs really rich, and the rear rotor runs lean and detonates.

 

mine was stuck...i took the actuator off and kept spraying lube on it and kept turning with a needle nose back and forth till it was back to normal...they both work now...

ofcourse it would definately help if you had the hose hooked back up...

 

Pull em out and use emmery cloth (very fine sand paper for metal) to sooth them back into operating condition. Do the same where they go in. Dont lose anything down the ports though. Sounds like you have a lot of carbon buildup in there. Hook everthing back up in origional configuration and you should be very happy when they kick in.

 

Remove the pieces of **** you wont miss them

 

When I fixed my ports I took the whole intake manifold apart and cleaned it out. It had a lot of carbon build up in the intake runners. After I lubed everything I put it back together, I then hooked the air pump up to actuate the pumps. With the pump moving the ports I can adjust the rpm at which they open. In my opinion this is much better than the stock setup. I now have no trouble with the ports sticking.
If you are going to rebuild the manifold it would be best to get the pineapple sleeves. If you remove them, you will probably miss them. It will hurt your low end torque. Mazda engineers designed them for a reason.

 

I pulled the actuators off and pushed them back and forth for a while, slid the 6th ports back and forth for a while, they loosened up, and they seem to be operational now (once I actually get the hoses hooked up for it.

 

now that they are loose...you can either do the fishtank hose mod or try to find another backpressure tube from a junkyard or the internet...good luck!

 

done it already (but not the fish tank method.. the home depot super loud ball valve method)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=253169

It sounds like a stinkin' turbo spooling at 2000 RPM. Now I have a definite lack of low end, but the high end is there.