air pump operated GSL-SE 6th ports, how do I do it?
air pump operated GSL-SE 6th ports, how do I do it?
Anyone have a *good* writeup on it? I've searched and searched and soyched and soyched and came up with very little to nothing.
Basically here's what I've got:
If that's seriously all that needs to be done, then "yay me!! I just made a writeup"... but I'm not so sure.
Anyone any ideas/comments?
Basically here's what I've got:
- Take the air pump outlet hose, run it to a 3-way tee
- Connect one side of tee to air pump outlet
- Connect another side of tee to (about a foot?) of ruber hose
- Connect the last part (in whatever manner of sizing necessary) to the 5th and 6th port actuators
- Take the spare tubing mentioned earlier and connect it to a bleed valve, trial setup the bleed valve and go for a spin, see where they open up, adjust accordingly
If that's seriously all that needs to be done, then "yay me!! I just made a writeup"... but I'm not so sure.
Anyone any ideas/comments?
Got the parts, I'm going to see how it works.. I kinda stumbled upon the ones I needed at The Home Depot.. I was really surprised.. 4 parts from them (excluding hose clamps and such)..
So far I've got:
- Brass Ball Valve that fits the same size tubing as the airpump tubing
- 3-way brass "T" that fits same size tubing as airpump tubing (I believe it's 3/8 inside, I'll have to get the part number..)
- Brass 3/8 (I think) male down to 1/4 female screw-in reducer
- Brass 1/4 male to 1/8 barb nipple.
And I'm spent... I'll let you know how it works
So far I've got:
- Brass Ball Valve that fits the same size tubing as the airpump tubing
- 3-way brass "T" that fits same size tubing as airpump tubing (I believe it's 3/8 inside, I'll have to get the part number..)
- Brass 3/8 (I think) male down to 1/4 female screw-in reducer
- Brass 1/4 male to 1/8 barb nipple.
And I'm spent... I'll let you know how it works
gwaa... I have it working but one of the ports sticks fully open once it opens.. *sigh*
So I've got it set to just open full out at nearly idle so they both open real low and don't lean out the fully open cylinder because the other one isn't fully open (as mentioned before).
But it does seem to work.
So I've got it set to just open full out at nearly idle so they both open real low and don't lean out the fully open cylinder because the other one isn't fully open (as mentioned before).
But it does seem to work.
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Originally posted by Barwick
cept its freaking LOUD
cept its freaking LOUD
Wow, now I know why your saying its so loud! If you got a hose and put on the end of your "pressure relief side to the tube that goes back to the cat (is see its open) it would quiet it down alot, also check that your check valve is really working too it may be coming back up, just get some 3/4" heater hose, thats what I used to bypass my ACV. Looks good though. Now I know another use for gardening equipment.
Originally posted by Steve Shulz
Wow, now I know why your saying its so loud! If you got a hose and put on the end of your "pressure relief side to the tube that goes back to the cat (is see its open) it would quiet it down alot, also check that your check valve is really working too it may be coming back up, just get some 3/4" heater hose, thats what I used to bypass my ACV. Looks good though. Now I know another use for gardening equipment.
Wow, now I know why your saying its so loud! If you got a hose and put on the end of your "pressure relief side to the tube that goes back to the cat (is see its open) it would quiet it down alot, also check that your check valve is really working too it may be coming back up, just get some 3/4" heater hose, thats what I used to bypass my ACV. Looks good though. Now I know another use for gardening equipment.
i went to napa and scrounged through their wall of premolded rubber tubing. i found a perfect 180degree turn that i used from the "Y" to that muffler thingamabob. you couldn't hear the airpump anymore and worked like a charm. It had like a 3/4 ID that slipped over the hose barb from the brass Y.


