I'm building a really dumb car and I'm powering it with a 1985 13b 6 port motor. In the process of cleaning up the excessive amount of clutter under the intake, I've decided to take the auxillary port valves out. I understand that by doing this I will sacrifice some low end torque. I'm ok with that because I plan on adding a turbo to this motor.

What are your thoughts on this? The car is a stick so I can vary clutch application when launch.... I mean taking off. Also, this car is not going to be a daily driver but it will be driven on the street as a toy.

 

Are you running the EFI? I've been running a 6 port with no sleeves for a little over a year now. I daily drive it with a dellorto dhla48 side draft on it. I don't mind the loss to low end because I rarely hang out there anyways.

That being said my motor is also a FC block with a lot of other mods as well. People pull the sleeves all the time. You're going to get a lot of feedback from both parties on this one.

 

im doing the same to my gslse there was a lot of gunk inside the intake, i remove the sleeve and put the lower intake in a bucket with carburetor cleaner. im not planning on installing the sleeve again.

 

If the aux ports work... Keep them.

If you are doing hella porting... remove them. Porting is the only reason in my mind to remove them.

 

The only problem I have is, we can claim our cars had the rotary engine's version of variable cam timing in 1984!

I have read, not experienced mind you that some people have claimed the pineapple inserts or the Atkins replacements and keeping them fully open allows better air flow in. I think the pineapple one's look well engineered but to have one of the inserts come off would be a bad day.

I'd like to hear what the difference you feel is and where at in the RPM band.

Anyone whose driven a Kawasaki triple H1 500 (the one that had the distributor) ported knows the awesome feeling of when it goes on the cam or more accurately, on the pipe since it doesn't have a cam. The increase in thrust and the sound of the three cylinders through proper expansion chambers is just awesome. Until you need to turn. I had the hydraulic steering damper and it was still dangerous cornering.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to run without them because the turbo will assist at low end under load. The car I'm building is nothing but a toy and I plan to drive it like a retard (at least on the track).

 

Aren't the turbo II 13bs only 4 ports? I wonder how their four ports corresponds to a 6 port regarding port timing and flow with the inserts removed or left fully open?

 

Yes they are only 4 ports. That being said so are older 13b's and all 12a's. 6 ports get turboed pretty regualrly. My block was from a turboed N/A S4 FC. He thought he popped a coolant jacket but it turned out to just be his air to water system malfunctioning.

 

try it! your results will depend on a few things like the exhaust. on a stock car wiring the ports open makes it feel like you just put a huge turbo on there, there is a HUGE lag under 4500rpm, but after 4500rpm you aren't any faster. than you were before.

if your exhaust is pretty good you still loose power under 4500rpm, but its just less.

the 6 port system IS like variable valve timing, so wiring it open is like turning Vtek on all the time

 

All day everyday like this

 

My aux ports were stuck closed - bad linkages and no tube to the actuators - cleaned them out and wired them open - also opened the air box - butt dyno says way faster - just my 2 cents

 

The motor is an EFI and I plan on keeping it that way.

For those wondering, the motor was aquired from a salvage yard and I'm building a car around it. I've always wanted to play with a rotary so now I'm doing it. The car I'm building is a sleeper/rat rod/pos and is nothing more than just another dumb creation to emerge from my shop. I have a very well equiped shop and I recently read a book on how to fix cars. I'm building this car on a modest budget in my (rare) spare time. I just want something suprisingly fast for the street and I'd like to do some bracket racing with it.

 

cool. keep it light, and it'll be quite fast

 

You can get an idea of the engine's condition by looking through the exhaust and input ports as your rotate the eccentric shaft. If nothing else, you should get a decent view of the Apex seals through the exhaust ports.

Please let us know what you see?

Did the salvage yard have any idea of the engine's provenance and mileage?

It would be nice to know who built it, did they use new rotor housings and did they do any porting or lapping of the side iron as well as re-nitriding the side iron or whether they used hardened stationary gears.

Sounds like a fun project. That engine if it's in good shape with a little boost should turn that lite car into a rocket!

 

I took a peek through the exhause ports and thought everything looked pretty good. The motor had sat for a long time so the apex seals were a bit stiff but I worked them loose by working them gently with a clean piece of wood. From what I could see of the rotor housing, it seems fine to me. There is a bit of a shadow on one rotor house from where things have sat for some time. I'm sure there's another 5 shadow in there somewhere. I don't feel the shadows will cause problems and the rest of the rotor housing (visable) shows no scarring or anything else that would bother me on a sealing surface. The end and center plates seem to be in very good condition also. Since I worked the apex seals a bit, there is noticable compression when turning the motor over by hand.

As far as the miles, who knows. The salvage yard gave the motor to me because I'm friends with one of the owners and I buy the majority of my used parts from them. The motor was marked 1987 but the flywheel says it's a 1985. I'm tending to believe it's a 1985. The salvage yard did say the car ran good when they pulled the motor 100 years ago. Once again it was free.

Since then I've aquired a car (83 Mercury Lynx station wagon) that looks like a faded out POS but in reality very structurally solid. I also have a ford 9" axle I'm going to narrow and redrill to run the stock Lynx wheels. Lastly, I have a turbo transmission that will send everything back to the rear end.

The goal, a sleeper car that can f*ck with Camaros and Mustangs because most of those guys are a bunch of dick wavers with low self esteem.

 

my car is running better without the sleeve there was lots of gunk in there