40 mpg carb
09-08-13, 09:52 AM
#34
i beg to differ Ray.. the nikki carbs work good for the most part, but unfortunately after 20 + years of use the carb is wore out, throttle shaft leakage being the main culprit. also the nikki cars didnt have nearly enough accel pump, yaw, sterling, shack have all mentioned this.. nikki carbs work but thats it
As far as performance goes, well hands down the nikki is at the bottom, a dyno will tell you the weber wins that argument every time .. the only time you will see a nikki on a race car is because they have to run the nikki in that class, not because they want to..
as far as this 1bbl kit, well its obviously designed around fuel economy, not performance. from what i have seen, its a simple swap, allowing you to swap back to the nikki when you want speed, and swap back to the 1bbl for fuel economy..And the 1bbl weber is new.. kinda cool
09-08-13, 02:30 PM
#38
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Boom its running . Just used a spring for the throttle cable and it now runs smooth. So low end its superb super smooth real torquey but after 5k rpm nothing happens i didnt tune itto well yet its braping and rich . Wish I had a afr.
09-08-13, 05:22 PM
#40
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09-08-13, 06:49 PM
#44
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fuel pressure is too high, that carb needs 1.5- 2 psi max. what is the fuel pressure set at? that carb kit is meant to work with the factory oil injection.. the two factory lines y into one line that connects to a brass line at the base of the carburetor.. the idle mixture adjustment screw is at the base of the carb(its the one with the spring behind the screw). with the car running, turn the screw clockwise until the car runs smooth.. the last step is useless unless you have a fuel pressure regulator installed with the fuel pressure set at 1.5-2 psi max.. when the kit is installed correctly it will idle smooth, and it will have much more low end throttle response over the nikki carb. its cheese time!
09-11-13, 11:48 AM
#46
Mr Gaskets are junk. I couldnt ever get mine to work and I had a gauge on it. Might as well return it and buy a low PSI Holley regulator and gauge off Summit or Jegs.
The stock fuel pump isnt that powerful, but it will overwhelm the Weber. At least the Nikki has internal regulation.
The stock fuel pump isnt that powerful, but it will overwhelm the Weber. At least the Nikki has internal regulation.
09-11-13, 12:12 PM
#47
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OTOH, I also felt that they were jetted a bit rich. I always ran about 1.5psi fuel pressure for best drivability, acceleration, and fuel economy. Always nice when all three happen at the same time
09-11-13, 01:25 PM
#48
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I have never, ever, ever had a problem with hesitation with a stock Nikki. I couldn't ever understand why anyone would want to INCREASE accelerator pump.
OTOH, I also felt that they were jetted a bit rich. I always ran about 1.5psi fuel pressure for best drivability, acceleration, and fuel economy. Always nice when all three happen at the same time
OTOH, I also felt that they were jetted a bit rich. I always ran about 1.5psi fuel pressure for best drivability, acceleration, and fuel economy. Always nice when all three happen at the same time
and this whole thing where the mechanical secondaries are better because you have to modulate the throttle is nonsense too, the vacuum secondary car is faster here too, because you can just mat the throttle and the car runs.
apparently its just me who thinks this, but it would be really fun to build 2 cars one with a vacuum secondary carb and one manual, and time them around a simple auto-x type course.
09-11-13, 02:47 PM
#49
j9fd3s, I think you're probably right. This winter I'm gonna build a Nikki just like my current one, but with vacuum secondary, just cuz I'm curious. My nikki works great if driven with the throttle as a dial. Treating it as an off/on switch always results in a small hiccup, through various stages of AP modding.
09-11-13, 04:37 PM
#50
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i think actually the need for a bigger accelerator pump happens when you convert to manual secondaries. you get that hesitation when you open the throttle, which is of course where the vacuum secondary car is faster, as it just goes....
and this whole thing where the mechanical secondaries are better because you have to modulate the throttle is nonsense too, the vacuum secondary car is faster here too, because you can just mat the throttle and the car runs.
apparently its just me who thinks this, but it would be really fun to build 2 cars one with a vacuum secondary carb and one manual, and time them around a simple auto-x type course.
and this whole thing where the mechanical secondaries are better because you have to modulate the throttle is nonsense too, the vacuum secondary car is faster here too, because you can just mat the throttle and the car runs.
apparently its just me who thinks this, but it would be really fun to build 2 cars one with a vacuum secondary carb and one manual, and time them around a simple auto-x type course.
I did the experimentation with half spring, 2/3rd spring, etc, but I was always happiest with no spring.