Hate to hear this...


Had bad experiences with aftermarket carbs before, I know it sucks..

 

Ya it sucks im just keeping it now to i find a way to hook up the throttle cable

 

You know, when it all comes down to it, you can't beat a Nikki.

 

Ya its running smooth atm. When i get paid im going to figure out this dumb throttle cable bracket and eventually get me a afr gauge

 

im sure if you contact the place that sells this kit they will be able to help you get it sorted out

 

This.

 

+1

 

While at work my bro made a throttle cable bracket will be running tomarow morning

 

i beg to differ Ray.. the nikki carbs work good for the most part, but unfortunately after 20 + years of use the carb is wore out, throttle shaft leakage being the main culprit. also the nikki cars didnt have nearly enough accel pump, yaw, sterling, shack have all mentioned this.. nikki carbs work but thats it

As far as performance goes, well hands down the nikki is at the bottom, a dyno will tell you the weber wins that argument every time .. the only time you will see a nikki on a race car is because they have to run the nikki in that class, not because they want to..

as far as this 1bbl kit, well its obviously designed around fuel economy, not performance. from what i have seen, its a simple swap, allowing you to swap back to the nikki when you want speed, and swap back to the 1bbl for fuel economy..And the 1bbl weber is new.. kinda cool

 

Got it all hooked up about to give it a start

 

I had a Weber 45 DCOE once. Hated it... Swapped in a Sterling Nikki and ran it for 4 years
before I sold the car.

 

coz the 45 is way too small.

 

Boom its running . Just used a spring for the throttle cable and it now runs smooth. So low end its superb super smooth real torquey but after 5k rpm nothing happens i didnt tune itto well yet its braping and rich . Wish I had a afr.

 

Tuneing is a pita... Cant get it to stop braping ....

 

Make sure its not flooded... The 1bbl will run like **** if the float level is too high

 

I mean I don't think its flooded. I drove the crap oit of it today

 

I will take about two hours tomarow when i wakeup on tuneing it its super rich i shot a few fireballs today lol...

 

Also gonna take te omp off tomarow and see how that goes does anyone know if i need any thing when i take it off?such. As like a blok off plate?

 

fuel pressure is too high, that carb needs 1.5- 2 psi max. what is the fuel pressure set at? that carb kit is meant to work with the factory oil injection.. the two factory lines y into one line that connects to a brass line at the base of the carburetor.. the idle mixture adjustment screw is at the base of the carb(its the one with the spring behind the screw). with the car running, turn the screw clockwise until the car runs smooth.. the last step is useless unless you have a fuel pressure regulator installed with the fuel pressure set at 1.5-2 psi max.. when the kit is installed correctly it will idle smooth, and it will have much more low end throttle response over the nikki carb. its cheese time!

 

Got the cheap i regulatore now just gota install my Mallory regulatore would go below 3 psi

 

Mr Gaskets are junk. I couldnt ever get mine to work and I had a gauge on it. Might as well return it and buy a low PSI Holley regulator and gauge off Summit or Jegs.

The stock fuel pump isnt that powerful, but it will overwhelm the Weber. At least the Nikki has internal regulation.

 

I have never, ever, ever had a problem with hesitation with a stock Nikki. I couldn't ever understand why anyone would want to INCREASE accelerator pump.

OTOH, I also felt that they were jetted a bit rich. I always ran about 1.5psi fuel pressure for best drivability, acceleration, and fuel economy. Always nice when all three happen at the same time

 

i think actually the need for a bigger accelerator pump happens when you convert to manual secondaries. you get that hesitation when you open the throttle, which is of course where the vacuum secondary car is faster, as it just goes....

and this whole thing where the mechanical secondaries are better because you have to modulate the throttle is nonsense too, the vacuum secondary car is faster here too, because you can just mat the throttle and the car runs.

apparently its just me who thinks this, but it would be really fun to build 2 cars one with a vacuum secondary carb and one manual, and time them around a simple auto-x type course.

 

j9fd3s, I think you're probably right. This winter I'm gonna build a Nikki just like my current one, but with vacuum secondary, just cuz I'm curious. My nikki works great if driven with the throttle as a dial. Treating it as an off/on switch always results in a small hiccup, through various stages of AP modding.

 

I'd remove the spring from the diaphragm, so in theory the secondaries should have been opening immediately. I never actually looked, mind you, but doing this did fatten up the midrange nicely.

I did the experimentation with half spring, 2/3rd spring, etc, but I was always happiest with no spring.