2K sputter
11-29-11, 07:20 PM
#77
Oil Leak
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Update:
I think the accel pump works, but might be out of adjustment. Cold mornings if I punch it a few times while turning it instantly fires up.
Between 1500 and 3k while IN GEAR the car is sluggish. Hesitates to do anything if you push too quickly on the throttle, BUT a light push (this is why I think the accel pump needs adjustment) results in smooth response.
I think the accel pump works, but might be out of adjustment. Cold mornings if I punch it a few times while turning it instantly fires up.
Between 1500 and 3k while IN GEAR the car is sluggish. Hesitates to do anything if you push too quickly on the throttle, BUT a light push (this is why I think the accel pump needs adjustment) results in smooth response.
11-30-11, 12:18 PM
#78
Team SR
Update:
I think the accel pump works, but might be out of adjustment. Cold mornings if I punch it a few times while turning it instantly fires up.
Between 1500 and 3k while IN GEAR the car is sluggish. Hesitates to do anything if you push too quickly on the throttle, BUT a light push (this is why I think the accel pump needs adjustment) results in smooth response.
I think the accel pump works, but might be out of adjustment. Cold mornings if I punch it a few times while turning it instantly fires up.
Between 1500 and 3k while IN GEAR the car is sluggish. Hesitates to do anything if you push too quickly on the throttle, BUT a light push (this is why I think the accel pump needs adjustment) results in smooth response.
11-30-11, 02:28 PM
#80
Lives on the Forum
I still think your primary jets are plugged. Increasing the throttle slowly gets smooth response, but if you give her too much she falls flat on her face? Can't get enough fuel into the carb to keep up with the increased air the comes from increased throttle. I'll be it runs a lot better with the choke on too....
11-30-11, 03:35 PM
#81
Oil Leak
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I still think your primary jets are plugged. Increasing the throttle slowly gets smooth response, but if you give her too much she falls flat on her face? Can't get enough fuel into the carb to keep up with the increased air the comes from increased throttle. I'll be it runs a lot better with the choke on too....
12-01-11, 12:19 PM
#82
Lives on the Forum
Well, my carb is fully stripped, so it might be a little different on yours. Using the toothpick method, I can swap jets in about ten minutes...
12-07-11, 04:01 PM
#83
Junior Member
it's sounding more and more like your accel. pump circuits are gumed up and the check ***** might be stuck. Basically, the purpose for the pump is to give the engine that little kick of fuel when you press the throttle down. The other clue is that using the sea foam got a positive response out of the car.
It isn't that hard to check these and it doesn't require you to strip everything down. You do have to remove the air horn and the accel. pump housing but that is it.
In case you decide to do so...
Use guitar string or compressed air to clear out the lines. When you replace the screw in the center of the carb. mark on the head of the screw with a sharpie or something where the holes are so you can line them up again with the nozzle.
It isn't that hard to check these and it doesn't require you to strip everything down. You do have to remove the air horn and the accel. pump housing but that is it.
In case you decide to do so...
Use guitar string or compressed air to clear out the lines. When you replace the screw in the center of the carb. mark on the head of the screw with a sharpie or something where the holes are so you can line them up again with the nozzle.
12-07-11, 10:35 PM
#84
Team SR
I am having the same problem i just rebuilt my Nikki... on your picture the upper left screw you circled when i took my carb apart the weight and ball wasn’t there and i didn’t know any better to look for it when i put it back together so its not installed do you think this could be causing my problem? The ball and weight are in the center sprayer. I can get the car to idle at rough 900 prob the AF. i can slowly run up to about 2300 then it will almost die and i have to feather the pedal to get threw it after 3000 car runs normal till i bring it back down under 2500.
12-08-11, 09:42 AM
#85
The weight would be easy enough to fab from a suitable piece of brass rod; The ball should be replaceable with a steel bearing ball if we just knew the accurate diameter.
Maybe someone who hasn't lost theirs yet and has access to precision measuring tools could post the dimensions of those parts?
Maybe someone who hasn't lost theirs yet and has access to precision measuring tools could post the dimensions of those parts?
12-08-11, 09:49 AM
#86
Team SR
The weight would be easy enough to fab from a suitable piece of brass rod; The ball should be replaceable with a steel bearing ball if we just knew the accurate diameter.
Maybe someone who hasn't lost theirs yet and has access to precision measuring tools could post the dimensions of those parts?
Maybe someone who hasn't lost theirs yet and has access to precision measuring tools could post the dimensions of those parts?
12-08-11, 10:09 AM
#87
I know others have successfully used cut-to-length drill bit shanks in the past to replace missing weights. I don't think either dimension or weight is super-critical.
Smooth-turned brass rod in various diameters is available from any hobby store; cutting a right-sized piece to proper length with a dremel & cleaning up the ends should result in a workable replacement.
Smooth-turned brass rod in various diameters is available from any hobby store; cutting a right-sized piece to proper length with a dremel & cleaning up the ends should result in a workable replacement.
12-08-11, 12:04 PM
#88
Team SR
I know others have successfully used cut-to-length drill bit shanks in the past to replace missing weights. I don't think either dimension or weight is super-critical.
Smooth-turned brass rod in various diameters is available from any hobby store; cutting a right-sized piece to proper length with a dremel & cleaning up the ends should result in a workable replacement.
Smooth-turned brass rod in various diameters is available from any hobby store; cutting a right-sized piece to proper length with a dremel & cleaning up the ends should result in a workable replacement.
12-08-11, 02:08 PM
#90
Junior Member
Sweet cant wait to make the weight and get this beast running right. I just rebuilt the carb so I have the little ball I actually have 2 extra that we're left over from a previous owners rebuild ill check if anyone is interested I'll ship you one I have some extra sandwitch bags envelops and a stam. Let me know
12-10-11, 05:32 PM
#93
Team SR
Please keep us posted on wether this works or not (I know it should but just to confirm). I have customers who send me carbs all the time with this part missing and I would love to confirm that making it out of the hobby rod works. Thanks!
12-10-11, 11:21 PM
#94
Junior Member
I cut the brass rod today... While I had top of the carb off i seized the oppertunity to reclean the jets. After removing the check valve seat indeed the weight and ball were MIA since I had the ball in a rebuild kit I proceeded to put everything back together I noticed that the weight seamed wrong ( was much narrower then the hole it actuall sits slanted in the hole and when I installed the check seat it felt as if I was wedging the weight sideways in the hole is that normal?) but I installed it anyway just to see what would happen. After getting everything back together I started the car to find a noticeable improvement but it's not fixed yet I tried to adjust the AP with no improvement I'm assuming that the weight has the ball wedged and isnt allowing fuel to pass I might try a weight that is bigger in diameter probably 4mm X 4mm if I have time I'm going to try it tomorrow but just to be clear I can run the car up by lightly feathering the throttle if I run the car to 1.2k I can work the secondarys by hand I get great throttle response no hesitation so I'm using that to narrow it down to that weight being wedged seam right?
Edit: the squirt of fuel is very weak and comes in at about half throttle its not a squirt more like drainin. Any additional advice would be appreciated thanks in advance!
KC
Edit: the squirt of fuel is very weak and comes in at about half throttle its not a squirt more like drainin. Any additional advice would be appreciated thanks in advance!
KC
Last edited by kdf1234; 12-10-11 at 11:28 PM. Reason: Had some extra info that came to mind after I hit send
12-11-11, 02:09 PM
#96
Sounds like whatever was clogged has dissolved itself celan, Gamah. Congrats.
KC, there are two different weights in the accel circuit on these carbs; one short and wide under the accel jets, one longer and thinner under the cover by the pump inlet.
Are you sure the one Mustang is talking about is the same one you are working with?
KC, there are two different weights in the accel circuit on these carbs; one short and wide under the accel jets, one longer and thinner under the cover by the pump inlet.
Are you sure the one Mustang is talking about is the same one you are working with?
12-11-11, 03:02 PM
#97
Junior Member
I'm not sure I thought we were on the same page I have the short wider one under the ap jet the other one was missing and is the one I am trying to sort out but 2mm doesn't seam right when I take the check valve seat out and try to install the new 2mm weight the hole looks 4X the size of the weight I'll try to upload a picture but I only have my phone so I don't know how I will upload it
12-11-11, 04:12 PM
#98
Team SR
I'm not sure I thought we were on the same page I have the short wider one under the ap jet the other one was missing and is the one I am trying to sort out but 2mm doesn't seam right when I take the check valve seat out and try to install the new 2mm weight the hole looks 4X the size of the weight I'll try to upload a picture but I only have my phone so I don't know how I will upload it
12-11-11, 04:49 PM
#99
Junior Member
I got a good look at it without fuel in the hole and noticed exactly what you are talking about. The original parts are there I was putting a ball and weight on top of them made me feel like a dumb ***. Either way there in the correct spot and I now get a steady squirt but there is still a hesitation and if I try to drive the car it will buck. A little history on the car... It sat for aprox 4 years I've changed the plugs cap rotor oil fuel filter and currently have the tank out of the car but have the supply and return hoses running into the hatch where I rigged a temp 2 gal tank. The car does constantly put off a small amount of smoke when running and more when first started and after warmed up if I rev from 6-8 k it produces a lot of smoke oh and the rats nest is removed all the vacume outlets are blocked except 1 for the vac advance the second from the left I can't think of anything else for besides rebuilding the carb and ideas?
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