1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

2K sputter

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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 05:26 PM
  #51  
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I watched it a few times and it was similar to the issue I had. Mine was a bit further up 2k to2.3K
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 07:54 PM
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Im free saturday night and all of sunday at the moment. However saturday is snowy and sunday is bloody cold. So if your garage is heated... lol. Either way works for me really. I'll PM you my phone number since I'm not able to check here often
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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Not wanting to hijack a thread but this is so similar to my problem I can't help but chime in.
I have recently rebuilt and Ining'm running mech secondaries. If I take it to the point where the secondaries engage it will just die off, soon as I get into the secondaries, sky's the limit.
It feels like its starving for fuel but I looked and it seems like I am getting good spray from my primary jets, plenty of cloud, but its just not there.

I just rebuilt the carb and I'd hate to tear it all down again. What do you think are the chances of run some seafoam through it and cleaning out any blocked gunk? No harm in trying right?
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 12:39 PM
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Seafoam significantly improved my situation
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 01:25 PM
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solved your problem?
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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no, but it did make it more streetable.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 10:27 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by -Gamah
Seafoam significantly improved my situation
Definitely sounds like a clogged jet/AC circuit, especially if the sea foam is helping. I like to use guitar string to clear the circuits and jets out after soaking in some carb. cleaner. It's small and will run through the lines. PM me if you need anything, I can take some pics for reference if you end up tearing the carb. apart or help you through it.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by CobraStngSVT
Definitely sounds like a clogged jet/AC circuit, especially if the sea foam is helping. I like to use guitar string to clear the circuits and jets out after soaking in some carb. cleaner. It's small and will run through the lines. PM me if you need anything, I can take some pics for reference if you end up tearing the carb. apart or help you through it.


reference pictures would be bomb
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 06:51 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by -Gamah
reference pictures would be bomb
ok, I'm actually getting started tearing down Jingkun's carb. tonight so I'll take some pics.

Until then here is some reference material. In my opinion the carb. manuals are a necessity for anyone looking to tune and do their own carb. work.

1979-1985 Carb. Manual
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #60  
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Run it up in rpms until it dies, then immediately kill the power. See if your float bowls are empty...

If they are, then your issue is fuel delivery before the carb (filter, pump, clogged line or tank pickup).

If they are not empty, then you have an internal carb issue.

That would be a simple way to verify where the issue is before tearing the carb apart.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 10:12 AM
  #61  
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From: Loxahatchee, FL
Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Run it up in rpms until it dies, then immediately kill the power. See if your float bowls are empty...

If they are, then your issue is fuel delivery before the carb (filter, pump, clogged line or tank pickup).

If they are not empty, then you have an internal carb issue.

That would be a simple way to verify where the issue is before tearing the carb apart.
+1

I would definitely to this just to rule something else out before the carb tear down.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Run it up in rpms until it dies, then immediately kill the power. See if your float bowls are empty...

If they are, then your issue is fuel delivery before the carb (filter, pump, clogged line or tank pickup).

If they are not empty, then you have an internal carb issue.

That would be a simple way to verify where the issue is before tearing the carb apart.
I could make it die right from idle if I just punched it.... I'm not sure what you mean.

You want me to rev to like 1k, blip it, and turn the key off before it completely stalls on it's own?
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:31 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by -Gamah
I could make it die right from idle if I just punched it.... I'm not sure what you mean.

You want me to rev to like 1k, blip it, and turn the key off before it completely stalls on it's own?
when it dies he wants you to turn it off so the fuel pump dosent fill the bowls up again
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #64  
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I understand, but in the time it takes to spool down from ~1.5K it could pump quite a bit of fuel into the bowls.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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its not a fuel delivery issue im sure. It sounds like your car misfires for a split second when you give it gas, then continues to rev. Correct? If thats the case, its not your bowls being empty
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FunK73
its not a fuel delivery issue im sure. It sounds like your car misfires for a split second when you give it gas, then continues to rev. Correct? If thats the case, its not your bowls being empty
Read my mind. It feels lean till about 4k too.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:55 PM
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I think we both need a rebuild.

anyone got an extra carb around that they want to get rid of on the cheap?
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 07:13 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by -Gamah
Read my mind. It feels lean till about 4k too.
it's sounding more and more like your accel. pump circuits are gumed up and the check ***** might be stuck. Basically, the purpose for the pump is to give the engine that little kick of fuel when you press the throttle down. The other clue is that using the sea foam got a positive response out of the car.

It isn't that hard to check these and it doesn't require you to strip everything down. You do have to remove the air horn and the accel. pump housing but that is it.

In case you decide to do so...



Use guitar string or compressed air to clear out the lines. When you replace the screw in the center of the carb. mark on the head of the screw with a sharpie or something where the holes are so you can line them up again with the nozzle.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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I thought the accelerator pump only activates when you're beginning to give it gas, not giving it more gas.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FunK73
I thought the accelerator pump only activates when you're beginning to give it gas, not giving it more gas.
it's weak to start in the morning less i pump the throttle a few times... 2-3 blips at 25% and it fires right up.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 05:02 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by FunK73
I thought the accelerator pump only activates when you're beginning to give it gas, not giving it more gas.
Just depends on where your throttle is and what the acc. pump lever is set at. It's a mechanically operated system so it doesn't care what rpms, just how far down your throttle is.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:21 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by CobraStngSVT
Just depends on where your throttle is and what the acc. pump lever is set at. It's a mechanically operated system so it doesn't care what rpms, just how far down your throttle is.
where/how do i adjust it?
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 09:06 AM
  #73  
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if i remember right its a nut thats on the level linked to the throttle that you can adjust. Been a while since I've looked at my nikki lol
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 11:13 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by FunK73
if i remember right its a nut thats on the level linked to the throttle that you can adjust. Been a while since I've looked at my nikki lol
correct, it's attached to the lever on the accel. pump housing. it either puts tension on the spring or releases it. Adjust until you get full pump just before half throttle or so. You'll have to play with it some.
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 06:01 PM
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any updates man?
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