I was just woundering if anyone on here has done the 24V battery/alternator system?

 

it can be done but why?

 

i know it can be done, i just wanted to see where people have stuck their equipment at, and what type, and how much has it cost them to do so.

 

Is there a point to running a 24 volt system on a fairly low compression, low internal friction engine?

Usually 24 volt electricals are used for starting large diesels with 20:1 compression ratios and lots of internal friction from valve springs bigger than our suspension springs and such...

I don't see why one would attempt this, nor where one would get a 24 volt alternator or starter to fit the stock locations.

 

It can be done by having your current alt. and starter rebuilt and let them know you want to run a 24 volt system. I dont think it would work on our old cars. Do it see how many sensiors and other stuff you can fry.

 

If he's gonna do all that noise, I'm pretty sure he's got a lot of custom stuff...

Aside from, I don't think he'll retain that many sensors. I don't think there are that many in the first place... 'Specially if his vehicle is carbureted.

Water temp sensor for the choke doesn't get used on a modded or aftermarket carb... Ummm. That's it. Mechanical gauges all the way and I think that covers all the sensors.

 

you guys are looking at this wrong, the 24v volt system is the alternator and the battery only that will be 24V (starter can be 24V too good for starting up a peripheral port or large bridge port easier), you can find the alternators on ebay for 24V and batteries can be source, usually marine/truck based batteries are the more common ones but they also make them for some race applications. The system from the battery goes to a transformer to step down the voltage from 24 volts to 13.8 or 12 but 13.8 is usally more desired. With this setup, the voltage tends not to drop as much with all the accessories and lights on. Also nice to use if you have amplifiers and what not in your car, the voltage is alot more stable with that stuff in there.

So the main reason I would like to have it done it for voltage stability, and plus if i get a 70A 24V alternator that turns into 140A at 12V if converted that way.

 

if you want to run those kind of amps i would look into diesel truck alternators or the ford ambulance alternators are high amp would have to make some brackets but i don't think you are worried about that normally in generators the field coil windings decided the voltage or the armture if you can find a small shop in your area that rebuilds alternators they can custom build you one for a cheap price the battery will only take two 12 volt batteries weiredin series

 

A dual battery setup would be much more economical solution. One to run accessories and one for IGN and Starter. Plus, It's a lot easier to fit a 12V battery in the bin than to fit a 24V in the engine bay.

 

We had a shop convert my ex's 6 volt bug to a 12 volt system. It was really simple, but I have never been much on auto electrical. It mainly consisted of changing the battery, alt and all of the light bulbs. Left the 6 volt starter in, talk about spinning up an engine for starting, wow. Never had an issure with the starter either. The mechanic said it would last for a long time, as long as we didn't keep cranking on it when it had problems starting.

I can understand you wanting to go with a 24 volt system for cold weather, but wouldn't an engine heater and keeping the car in tiptop tune be easier/cheaper?

 

Its not for the cold start, i actually don't have any problems with that at all, give it a few pumps and she cranks right up. I'm trying not to say too much right now. I want it to be a surprise to everyone on here on why i need the "stability" of the system

 

Oh boy, it's either a big *** stero system, or my shell is getting hybridized.

 

i'd think you would be plenty happy with running a different alternator. Swing by an auto electric shop, tell them what alternator you have and they can find you something with the same ear size to mount up. I was curious one day and asked when i was picking up a starter, he found a 140A alternator that would work. Now i don't remember what car or brand alternator it was, but reguardless they're out there.

I'm sure you already know this, but i would be interested to see if you do change to 24V what the outcome is.

 

Dont worry about it ... trochoid, its in great hands .... I'll make you proud

 

Correct me if im wrong here, but car electrical is figured out using the formula:

E=I/R
Voltage = Current / Resistance

Therefore if you double the voltage of everything in a vehicle you are going to need to increase the resistance in multiple components in order to reduce the current flow through them. Sure its possible, but is it worth it? Unless you are EXTREMELY skilled will electronics and sit down and really think this out. I would have to say no. I can just imagine increasing your voltage resulting in increased current in your vehicles electrical system causing multiple fuses to blow and serious electrical problems.

 

if you read one of my previous posts, the voltage will be run through a transformer to step it down to 13.8volts

 

Sorry, I must have skimmed over that part. I really don't understand the point though it just seems like overkill for a lightduty automotive application. You can get high output alternaters and aftermarket batteries that are tryed and tested and function just fine. Changing the voltage of the system seems like a step in the wrong direction...

 

well its not all for sure right now, but we'll see how the first setup will hold up

 

you've get it wrong Dan. Your resistance issue you speak of is not a problem.

To measure voltage(E), You take resistance(R) x amps(I)
Resistance (ohms)= E/I
Amps = E/R

 

If you upgrade the grounds properly and have the current to supply the demands, you can eliminate voltage drop completely.

I used to run a dual alternator & battery setup, 12volt for the car, and 18volt for the amplifiers, so you can say I have a little experience in this department.

Lets say your 12volt starter needs 100amps to turn the motor over, running on 24volts the starter only needs 50amps to spin, double the voltage, half the current.

Running a step down transformer is a lossy way to engineer the system, as soon as you drop down to 12volts again you are going to need double the current. which means you need a 24volt alternator that can meet 12volt current demands, which is going to be quite a unit, expensive and large, let alone the horsepower loss from such a hefty alternator.

 

humm .. interesting points ... didn't put the HP in the equation ... this is why i kinda asked on the forum though, see what is what. from the looks of it the 12V might be all that i need ... i just need to find something that makes more than 70A from the 2nd gen ... search button here i come again lol

 

Almost everything mentioned in this thread is wrong.

 

Ok instead of saying everything in this tread is wrong why dont you set all of stright?

 

lol ... hey aaron ... please help shed some light on us ... since you're doing this anyway

 

Because I'd rather discuss it in PM with the original poster. The 24V system was my idea and I'm already doing it on another car...I don't want copies.