1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

20w50 in a 12a?

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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 02:33 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
i think you could make the case that looking at the Rx8 forum is what causes problems with the car.
How do I cancel my membership here!?!?!
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 06:08 PM
  #27  
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Ok, epic noob moment. But what do the numbers mean when referring to oil? Like for 5w30 what do the numbers mean? Haha xD. Maybe if I knew that I can make a more educated decision.. but I'm gonna up my weight for sure.
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 06:30 PM
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viscosity in cold temp(W=winter)and viscosity at operating temp. numbers are set by a scale determined by SAE
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 06:42 PM
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Wow thank you. In all my life I never understood that... Haha.
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Old Jul 24, 2012 | 09:36 PM
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First number is cold weight then the second is warm.

5W30 has a cold weight of 5 and once the engine is at operating temp it is 30 weight.

Its so that on start up engines have a chance to move the oil around, but when the engine warms up the thicker oil will kick in and lubricate proper.

Just to clarify... there aren't TWO oils in a mixture, but I supose it would be simple to think of it in that way.
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Old Jul 25, 2012 | 05:17 PM
  #31  
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Yeah I didn't think there were 2 but still thanks for clarifying! I did an oil change today, I used Lucas brand oil 10w40. I'm not too comfortable atm going any higher. But I'm a huge Lucas brand nut, products of that brand have kept some cars that shouldnt be running alive. So I figured ill give it a shot!

Thanks for the help everyone!
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Old Jul 25, 2012 | 06:25 PM
  #32  
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I live in southern cali vally and it gets hot here, so ive always used 20w50 ive also wondered if its too think for the omp but really dont see it being an issue, i would suggest using something thicker than the 5-something you said you used, im sure you know rotaries like to get hot.
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 04:42 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by TOFUDRIFTER
Yeah I didn't think there were 2 but still thanks for clarifying! I did an oil change today, I used Lucas brand oil 10w40. I'm not too comfortable atm going any higher. But I'm a huge Lucas brand nut, products of that brand have kept some cars that shouldnt be running alive. So I figured ill give it a shot!

Thanks for the help everyone!
I ran Castrol 20/50 for years without issue. For the last couple of years though, I've been using Lucas, for the same reasons stated above. Everything they make works exactly as advertised. That's pretty rare...
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 10:22 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
I ran Castrol 20/50 for years without issue.
I have, and still do.
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 11:58 AM
  #35  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Peepers gets Castrol HD40, race car gets straight weight oil. long story short, dad did some research and found this http://www.castrol.com/castrol/subse...tentId=7027417 and out of the oils they have the HD40 looks quite good, and is actually easy to find.

the vert is just a street cruiser, it gets whatever is on sale...
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 06:28 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
it boils down to personal preference.
this is where i stand on any street-oriented car.

Originally Posted by j9fd3s
i think you could make the case that looking at the Rx8 forum is what causes problems with the car.
i'm tempted to agree with you. there is a different breed of fool over there, for sure.
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 06:41 PM
  #37  
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Castrol GTX 20w 50 12a, 13b, turbo, bridged, holley or fuel injected............till the day I die
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Old Jul 26, 2012 | 07:23 PM
  #38  
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Same here, always GTX except when i use idemitsu, but i usually gotta skip lunch that day
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 12:01 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Qingdao
First number is cold weight then the second is warm.

5W30 has a cold weight of 5 and once the engine is at operating temp it is 30 weight.

Its so that on start up engines have a chance to move the oil around, but when the engine warms up the thicker oil will kick in and lubricate proper.

Just to clarify... there aren't TWO oils in a mixture, but I supose it would be simple to think of it in that way.
There's a lot of misconceptions in this post.

First and foremost, viscosity has nothing to do with the oil's lubricating properties.

The multi-viscosity rating is based on the oil's temperature. That is to say, a 5W30 oil is the same viscosity as 5 straight-weight when both are at 0 degrees (C or F, i forget which) and the same viscosity as 30 straight-weight when both are at something like 180F.

Notice that the viscosity is being compared to oils at the same temperature. Multi-viscosity oils never get thicker with heat, they just lose viscosity less quickly.

For extreme example, the 0W60 synthetics used in some BMWs are very, very close to not losing any viscosity at all with temperature, at least within the range of the test.
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 06:47 PM
  #40  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
here's the SAE viscosity chart for engine oil, there is a different one for the transmission oils

Attached Thumbnails 20w50 in a 12a?-sae_oil_weights.png  
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