Hi, I'm new to this site and have a specific question about my SE TPS. I am looking to determine if it is out of spec and needs replacement. When I hook up a multimeter to the TPS (once the car is warm and turned off) I am reading 1K ohms at the idle position from one side, moving to about 4K ohms at wide open throttle. The other side reads around 3.5K ohms at idle then ranges down to around 0.3K ohms at wide open throttle. From the research I have done I think that second reading may be out of spec. Should it not be around 4 or 5K ohms at idle position and the same at wide open throttle? I can't find any technical info to help me.
Thanks

 

the simpler less thinky way to do this is to build a TPS checker and just plug it in and let the ecu tell you.

there is a 3 pin plug by the AFM, and you hook up a light bulb to each side pin with the common being the top and adjust until there is one light lit

 

You can either use small flashlight bulbs or you can get some 12v LEDs from RadioShack. With the flashlight bulbs, polarity doesn't matter. But with the LEDs, it does matter. I use the LEDs. You can get them for about $1.29 each (last I checked) from RadioShack.
Note: Photo is of my TPS tester, the diagram gif, and parts info from old post by gsl-se addict.




The procedure for testing can be found in the Mazda Workshop Manual (section 4B). The TPS is an "over-priced" resistor and after 37 years of "cooking" under the hood it's not going to give you "factory" readings anymore. If you are not having any acceleration/deceleration issues the TPS is more than likely working just fine.

 

Thank you guys. I have tried that method to set the TPS. More specifically I am trying to determine if my TPS is bad by measuring the resistance. I am experiencing a bit of an erratic idle and a bit of a flutter while accelerating (both minor but annoying). I know that it could be any number of things causing the trouble so I am starting with the TPS. The readings I am getting don't seem to be correct so I thought I would ask if anyone else has technical specs on a properly functioning TPS.
I have noticed that while adjusting the TPS I hear a "sparking" sound coming from the bypass air solenoid(s) so that will be my next stop when after I figure this one out.

 

if you look the TPS checker is teed into the two solenoids that run the Air Control Valve, so when the lights are turning on and off so are the solenoids, which click
also kind of why it drives weird, as the air pump air gets turned on and off at disadvantageous times

 

Welcome aboard. Here's the FSM specs;

Lower Right Corner: at idle ~1k-Ohm, at WOT ~5k-Ohm.

It's perhaps important to note that the TPS on an SE functions more like a switch than a continuously gradient TPS as is used in other, more modern vehicles. The setting steps described in the FSM are brief, because getting ONE light on at idle and not TWO is what will give the best throttle response, as the simple TPS essentially just describes an off-idle to WOT signal to the ECU, and the rest of the simple system makes the car accelerate smoothly. Getting the TPS set correctly is very important for a smooth idle, and good just-off-idle throttle response. It typically doesn't affect acceleration or deceleration smoothness u less you have a dead spot in the carbon tape that's reading zero Ohms somewhere in the range.

I have 250k miles on my SE and pretty sure it's on the original TPS, but I've swapped in spares over the years for diagnostics and troubleshooting.

 

Thank you, that's very helpful. I carefully ran it through it's entire throttle range and there is no dead spot.
It would seem then that my TPS is operating correctly and I need to look elsewhere for my issue.

 

The TPS on my GSL-SE did developed a "dead-spot" several years ago, and while "web surfing" for a replacement I found a WELLS TPS sensor on Amazon for $27.50 which made my day!