1984 Rx7 Gs
08-30-05, 09:37 AM
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1984 Rx7 Gs
ok so im going to look at a 1984 GS tonight, its the guys wifes car who has just died, the car has 105k miles and its been garage kept forever, they were also the only owners of the car. Is there anything bad i should be looking for? he wants about 4500 for it. Thanks.
08-30-05, 09:56 AM
#2
What do you mean by "garage kept forever". If the car has been sitting for a long period of time in one spot, that's worse than if it's been driven all the time.
For example, MY 1984 GS spent 5 years sitting in one spot under a tarp. The body and interior were mint, but the engine was siezed, the suspension was shot, the brakes were siezed shut, the gas had turned to varnish, the carb was gummed up, and the list goes on.
If the car runs well, the main thing to check for is rust. The biggest place for rust to form on this car is the area under the storage bins behind the seats. Take a phillips screw driver, take out the six screws holding the bin in place and pull it forward about an inch (it's all you can, there's a light that stops it). Then push your hand underneath it to fold the bottom of the bin "inwards", so that you can finish taking it out.
Look at the body there. If there's rust, drop the price a hell of a lot.
If the body is relatively rust free, check for quality of ride. The steering is loose, it's always loose because our cars don't have the same kind of steering racks that newer cars do. It's supposed to be that way, so don't worry about it.
Ask if it burns oil. If it doesn't, there's a problem. The rotary engine has a little oil metering pump whose purpose in life is to take small amounts of oil from the oil pan and mix it into the air/gas in the carburetor. If the car never burns oil, that pump isn't working and you're probably going to blow your engine sooner rather than later. You can rebuild the Oil Metering Pump really easily, but it's something to watch out for. If he says "it doesn't burn any oil", grill him on it. Chances are either it's a bad thing, or he's a piston-head who thinks that cars aren't supposed to burn oil.
In my opinion 4,500 is way too much to pay for one of these cars, especially at that age. I got mine practically free, then spent 4,000 in it replacing parts. If you spend ,4500 in it, chances are you're gonna spend that much changing things and fixing it up. It may run fine, but you're not an old granny and so you'll want to replace parts as they wear out or sooner. The 22yr old suspension is probably sagging, the front rotors (with the bearings) probably haven't been replaced in recent memory, and you'll have to do a FULL tune-up.
Ie:
Full Tune Up:
Spark plugs ($10/each. Seriously)
Spark plug wires
Distributor cap and rotor
Air Filter
Oil and Oil Filter
FUEL FILTER (very very very very important, and cheap)
Flush the coolant/antifreeze and refill with new stuff
and you'll want to run carb cleaner in your next few tanks of gas
Jon
For example, MY 1984 GS spent 5 years sitting in one spot under a tarp. The body and interior were mint, but the engine was siezed, the suspension was shot, the brakes were siezed shut, the gas had turned to varnish, the carb was gummed up, and the list goes on.
If the car runs well, the main thing to check for is rust. The biggest place for rust to form on this car is the area under the storage bins behind the seats. Take a phillips screw driver, take out the six screws holding the bin in place and pull it forward about an inch (it's all you can, there's a light that stops it). Then push your hand underneath it to fold the bottom of the bin "inwards", so that you can finish taking it out.
Look at the body there. If there's rust, drop the price a hell of a lot.
If the body is relatively rust free, check for quality of ride. The steering is loose, it's always loose because our cars don't have the same kind of steering racks that newer cars do. It's supposed to be that way, so don't worry about it.
Ask if it burns oil. If it doesn't, there's a problem. The rotary engine has a little oil metering pump whose purpose in life is to take small amounts of oil from the oil pan and mix it into the air/gas in the carburetor. If the car never burns oil, that pump isn't working and you're probably going to blow your engine sooner rather than later. You can rebuild the Oil Metering Pump really easily, but it's something to watch out for. If he says "it doesn't burn any oil", grill him on it. Chances are either it's a bad thing, or he's a piston-head who thinks that cars aren't supposed to burn oil.
In my opinion 4,500 is way too much to pay for one of these cars, especially at that age. I got mine practically free, then spent 4,000 in it replacing parts. If you spend ,4500 in it, chances are you're gonna spend that much changing things and fixing it up. It may run fine, but you're not an old granny and so you'll want to replace parts as they wear out or sooner. The 22yr old suspension is probably sagging, the front rotors (with the bearings) probably haven't been replaced in recent memory, and you'll have to do a FULL tune-up.
Ie:
Full Tune Up:
Spark plugs ($10/each. Seriously)
Spark plug wires
Distributor cap and rotor
Air Filter
Oil and Oil Filter
FUEL FILTER (very very very very important, and cheap)
Flush the coolant/antifreeze and refill with new stuff
and you'll want to run carb cleaner in your next few tanks of gas
Jon
08-30-05, 10:06 AM
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yeah by garage kept i mean right after they were done driving it, they'd immediately put it back in their garage, this is the 6th one the guy has had, but yeah thanks for all that info, hes also just had it repainted, and put 2500 in it, but im not sure what the 2500 consisted of i didnt ask but i will tonight
Last edited by fbmpw; 08-30-05 at 10:11 AM.
08-30-05, 03:27 PM
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rust, for that price there better not be annyyyy rust on it. look under it for leaks and frame damage. crankit up and let it get warm. hopefully he lets you drive it. check for transmission noises and what not. then when you get back. shut it off and crank it right back up. if it does not fire back up easily then there may be a compression problem, or just a carb problem. but there is a problem. then the usual, tires, lights, electrical. you gotta realize.. for 4500 you could buy a TII FC that runs a low 12 second quarter mile. not saying to get an FC! AHHHHh but, it better be fuggin NIIICE!
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08-30-05, 09:02 PM
#9
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Bought my '84 GS 1 1/2 years ago off the 3rd owned - never driven in winter (its been in PA all its life), 72000 miles - has 1 small rust spot behind rear left wheel. Hat to replace converter , put a new battery in it and replace right front caliper (was hanging up)- paid $1800 for it - owner asked $2500. Its silver with red interior. I though I got a fair good deal on it.
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