1983 fb rx7 steering up grade
#26
Full Member
I recently installed Corsa C manual rack with Flaming River steering uni-joints into my SA22 Gen 1 RX7.
It is a 3 to 1 ratio which is faster than the standard 3.5 to 1, and it is quite a bit lighter as well. Next to zero play, next to zero flex, I highly recommend it.
Full details here:
Project Part 7 - Engine Build, Megasquirt, SDR manifold, rack and pinion steering
Arran
It is a 3 to 1 ratio which is faster than the standard 3.5 to 1, and it is quite a bit lighter as well. Next to zero play, next to zero flex, I highly recommend it.
Full details here:
Project Part 7 - Engine Build, Megasquirt, SDR manifold, rack and pinion steering
Arran
#31
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How much play does yours have, because I have about 14 mm, still have some things to do to the car, but thinking that's as good as it gets probably. I actually like the stock steering, just don't like the nervousness that comes from on-center play.
#32
www.AusRotary.com
No matter what you do, you cannot eliminate the wonder steer on 1st gen RX-7s - it is an inherent flaw in the recirculating ball design. I've found series 3 units (84-85) are worse than series 1 and 2 possibly because Mazda wanted to make the steering lighter, which in turn made the freeplay issue much worse. Reco'ing or simply tightening the steering box helps, as does new steering system componentry, however the basic limitations will always remain. It's like putting lipstick on a pig.
Steering effort on a stock car isn't so bad, but add some wider stickier tyres and some decent alignment settings (a bit of extra caster) and it's ridiculously bad for such a light car.
Rack and pinion conversion is the way to go and the FC subframe conversion is probably the best way to do it IMO: modifications are required but they aren't extensive plus you get a mid-mounted engine with OEM engine mounts, bigger stronger stub axles, bigger brakes, 5-stud hubs (if desired). Plus FC junkers are often available cheap now. I got the whole subframe from a s5 turbo with rack, struts, hubs etc for AU$300 (US$220). I'm keeping the power steering and instead of the standard belt driven pump, will be using an electric hydraulic power steering pump from a Holden Astra (similar system to the Toyota MR2 pumps people often use).
#33
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rack and pinion conversion is the way to go and the FC subframe conversion is probably the best way to do it IMO: modifications are required but they aren't extensive plus you get a mid-mounted engine with OEM engine mounts, bigger stronger stub axles, bigger brakes, 5-stud hubs (if desired). Plus FC junkers are often available cheap now. I got the whole subframe from a s5 turbo with rack, struts, hubs etc for AU$300 (US$220). I'm keeping the power steering and instead of the standard belt driven pump, will be using an electric hydraulic power steering pump from a Holden Astra (similar system to the Toyota MR2 pumps people often use).
For me I'm continuing to try and improve it as much as possible as I restore the front end of my car. Not perfect, but getting better and it does add some character to the car, nevertheless.
#34
www.AusRotary.com
I don't know about that. I actually think an FC setup is superior to the RE-speed kit due to the extra stability and bracing from the subframe, slightly wider track, better mid-mounted engine setup, easier brake upgrade and the wider possibilities for aftermarket coil overs and adjustable steering knuckles. That and the RE-speed kit was LHD only and was designed around the rack was virtually non-existent outside North America. What the REspeed kit really had going for it was the fact it was bolt on, maybe the quick ratio rack and the fact it will work on earlier front-mounted engines (which a FC setup will not).
Last edited by KYPREO; 03-16-16 at 04:49 AM. Reason: edited
#35
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like keeping the stock suspension setup (even if inferior), and the idea of getting a quick-ratio manual rack. I also plan on keeping my 12a for as long as reasonably possible. My car is low miles, and all stock, so I'd like to keep it that way, but rack & pinion would be a seriously good mod since restoring the stock system seems kind of like a dead-end. Replacing the steering linkage did have good results for me, but perfect would be nice, which isn't possible I fear. Not the end of the world, but tight communicative steering would really complement the car overall.
#36
I recently installed Corsa C manual rack with Flaming River steering uni-joints into my SA22 Gen 1 RX7.
It is a 3 to 1 ratio which is faster than the standard 3.5 to 1, and it is quite a bit lighter as well. Next to zero play, next to zero flex, I highly recommend it.
Full details here:
Project Part 7 - Engine Build, Megasquirt, SDR manifold, rack and pinion steering
Arran
It is a 3 to 1 ratio which is faster than the standard 3.5 to 1, and it is quite a bit lighter as well. Next to zero play, next to zero flex, I highly recommend it.
Full details here:
Project Part 7 - Engine Build, Megasquirt, SDR manifold, rack and pinion steering
Arran
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post