1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

1980: Carbon Locked?

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Old 03-22-09, 01:23 PM
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Exclamation 1980: Carbon Locked?

I just got a 1980 that doesn't run. According to the previous owner it had been sitting for 5 months. It seems to be carbon locked, but since I've never actually run into that before I'm not sure. I have tried the instructions from vipernicus42 at: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=281207 but have had no luck so far. I am using MMO as my lubricant. I have followed these instructions and the first application has set for about 18 hours and the pulley still will not budge.
I have a couple of questions:
-Should I move on and try ATF?
-Should the pulley be able to move freely with all of the belts still attached or should I remove all the belts and try again?
-Could a bad starter be keeping the engine from moving?

Thanks for any help
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Old 03-22-09, 01:27 PM
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I had my starter lock into the fly wheel once. Before we realized what the problem was we were trying to pull start it with a truck and it was just dragging the rear tire! So I would say it is possible for the starter to be locked in.
Old 03-22-09, 07:02 PM
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OK, I pulled the starter and it seems fine (Spins easily). I tried moving the main pulley with the starter off and all belts loosened and it still doesn't move. The engine is seized tight! As I said before I have tried the MMO treatment with no results at all. Is my only choice here to pull the engine and rebuild?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Old 03-22-09, 07:18 PM
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well, you can try sea foam if you can. its stronger than MMO, and better on seals than ATF, most people actually don't recommend ATF, i've tried both (on running engine) and sea foam worked the best.
Old 03-23-09, 03:05 AM
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I agree, seafoam it - also, have you tried to hand crank to in REVERSE rotation - maybe that will free up what is wedged in place?

Stu Aull
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Old 03-23-09, 08:13 AM
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I'll try the seafoam and see what happens there. Yes, I have tried turning the pulley both directions and it is locked solid. Will not move at all.
Thanks
Old 03-23-09, 10:24 AM
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Silly question, but you're sure it's out of gear, right?

If you've got the starter off, belts slack, and plugs out, and it won't rotate at all by hand, it's either carbon-locked, or siezed.
Old 03-23-09, 12:22 PM
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just to give you something to try, if you have a big wrench and socket just attach it to the pulley and that will give you more leverage than just by hand lol. just be careful and mark your pulley in case you loosen it.
Old 03-23-09, 12:40 PM
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The previous owner of my car just poured plain old oil into the itake and let it sit, it loosened right back up.
Old 03-23-09, 01:44 PM
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Well hope its not seized and trying to crank it ***** up the housings.

Seafoam should work, its like Rotary duct tape. If it can't fix it, its broke! LoL
Old 03-23-09, 02:19 PM
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lol
Old 03-23-09, 10:29 PM
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Yes, I'm gonna try the seafoam. But no...I won't be forcing the engine with a wrench...I'm afraid of really screwing it up. Breaking a seal or screwing the housing is not what I'm interested in. If I can't break it loose with the seafoam I'll be pulling the 12a and rebuilding it. Any help on that would be greatly appreciated. Is there a video for the 12a...the only ones I have found are for the 13b...is it close enough to use the same ones.
Thanks again!
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Old 03-23-09, 10:44 PM
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the way i see it is, worst case scenario it's seized, you're gonna have to take it apart and rebuild it anyways, so, the worst thing that can happen if you try to force it into a spin is that you'll break a seal, which you were gonna take apart and replace anyways. just my 2 cents.
Old 03-23-09, 10:53 PM
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Works for me...If I'm gonna replace the seals anyway, who cares if I break one. You don't think there's any other damage I can do to the engine by forcing it?
Old 03-23-09, 11:09 PM
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Yes, but think of it this way, the seal breaks and while turning gets wedged between the housing and rotor and gouges the **** outta it.
Old 03-23-09, 11:13 PM
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That's what I was afraid of...that's why I asked you guys. If the seafoam doesn't break it loose, I'm just gonna pull the engine and start the rebuild. I think it's actually gonna be pretty fun.
Does that make me crazy? Wait...who cares if I'm crazy!
Old 03-24-09, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by DemonSpawn67
Yes, but think of it this way, the seal breaks and while turning gets wedged between the housing and rotor and gouges the **** outta it.
well true. but, if it breaks loose then it gets caught again, i'm sure you'd have enough sense to stop turning lol.

anyways, yeah just try the seafoam and go from there lol
Old 03-24-09, 03:00 AM
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Old 03-24-09, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by blackdeath647
just to give you something to try, if you have a big wrench and socket just attach it to the pulley and that will give you more leverage than just by hand lol. just be careful and mark your pulley in case you loosen it.
I would advise AGAINST THIS!
If you _loosen_ the front pulley nut, there is a chance the one of the front e-shaft bearings will be allowed to DROP, then once tightened, the misplaced bearing will FAIL once the engine is running, taking out your motor!

And yeah, I'm hoping your right that a rebuild might be fun - have one apart in my shed (awaiting spring) - the easy part was the disassembly - so maybe we can compare notes after about the "fun" part?


Stu Aull
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Old 03-24-09, 09:22 AM
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+1 for not attempting to force the engine into rotation, for all the reasons cited so far.

If you can't get it to release with solvents, forcing it to just turn a couple times will not get it running properly anyway. All you'd be doing is risking doing irreparable damage to some very expensive parts.

Considering the possible cost of one good replacement housing (IF you can find the ones you need), it's cheaper to do it right; pull it, and tear it down, and fix it proper. Or buy a replacement and rebuild the pulled one at your convenience.

Rebuilding a rotary is actually a lot of fun if you're interested in mechanical things - - it rewards patience and attention to detail, and you really feel like you've accomplished something when you get your first one right, and it lights off.

The only time it's not "fun" is when you are short on the time or the funds to do it right.
Old 03-24-09, 09:37 AM
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Thanks Everyone!
I'll try the seafoam and if it doesn't loosen up, I'm going to pull it and do a rebuild. I'll keep you posted on the progress.

BTW Is there a video or tutorial for rebuilding a 12a? All I can find is for the 13b.
Thanks Again!
Old 03-24-09, 09:41 AM
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Outside of some clearances and dimensions, the process steps are the same between the two.
Old 03-24-09, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DivinDriver
Silly question, but you're sure it's out of gear, right?

If you've got the starter off, belts slack, and plugs out, and it won't rotate at all by hand, it's either carbon-locked, or siezed.
Not such a silly question. I spent almost an entire weekend trying to get one to turn with no success. Then a REALLY drunk friend said "hey man, it's in gear and you've got the e-brake on *thud*, OUCH!" . The very last part was while he was trying to get out of the car.

As far as the wrench method, I think you'll know if you start breaking the bolt loose. That's when you stop. Here's the simple solution to that. Hold the clutch in with a cut broom handle, stick, etc..., wedged between the seat and the pedal. When you try to rotate it, go in a reverse direction. If you get any turn out of it, STOP and add some seafoam, let it sit for a while, then try again. Small turns, back and forth.

Remove the spark plugs so you're not fighting any compression.
Old 03-24-09, 11:32 AM
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Yes, It is out of gear. But I hear you bstrange...It's always the little things that get you!
Did that sound paranoid?

Seafoam question: Do I use 'Motor Treatment' or 'Deep Creep'?
Old 03-25-09, 08:24 PM
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Don't mean to pester, but I have to ask. Which seafoam do I use?
Thanks
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