1979 RX7 Wiring Help!!!!!
04-11-11, 09:44 PM
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1979 RX7 Wiring Help!!!!!
Ok guys i have tried 3 different combo switches and i cannot get the turn signals, hazards, console,..ect to work... i put the charger on the battery and i can hear the voltage regulator buzz. What does work is the parking lights and heads lights but they dont go up and down. Is there a connection or something i can look at to see why there is no power going to these things....... Maybe a crimped connection? PLEASE HELP!!!!
04-12-11, 03:28 AM
#3
I'm from the internet, son, and I'm here to help you:
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/19...ingDiagram.pdf
Section E
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/19...ingDiagram.pdf
Section E
You didn't mention any "pre-history" of the problem (and maybe there is none). This just started out of the Blue? No symptom changes or additions in swapping all those switch assys?
Presume you checked both the INterior fuse box and the 3 fusible Links on the drivers suspension tower in the engine comp?
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
04-12-11, 09:04 AM
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The ignition switch works and the car starts but i cannot get any power to the console, headlight motors, turn signals, hazards, etc... Wat works is the parking lights, break lights, head lamps, antenna, hatch relase... I checked all fuses, links on the tower, links under the steering column and there is nothing unplugged that i can see under the dash. I will be taking the dash completely off to check everything. Any switches i should check?
04-14-11, 03:15 AM
#6
Don -
Not sure pulling dash itself is helpful. Maybe the center radio console, but that whole area is actually powered off one sub-harness that taps in near the speedo cluster. So if the console area is dead then that points back to the main harness (and, aside from the engine and rear harness, the Main harness IS everything under the LH dash and out to the perimeter of the engine compartment. There is no "main-plug" at the firewall connecting passenger side to engine side, if you follow). Pulling cluster might help seeing whats connected correctly back there and around the ignitions switch (there are at least 3 distinct harness connections for the ignition). Also there is a fusible link wired into the ign switch area too that can be checked.
If I was to hazard a guess (and I am NO electrical guy) - I would have a hard look at the ign switch and its harness connections as a start.
Obv. DD's wiring diagram in hand will help understand what and where all these plug in... be methodical. Check connectors for fit - and any damage. Did a previous owner re-wire there for a deck or anything??
'luck - and keep us posted-
Stu Aull
80 GS
Alaska
Not sure pulling dash itself is helpful. Maybe the center radio console, but that whole area is actually powered off one sub-harness that taps in near the speedo cluster. So if the console area is dead then that points back to the main harness (and, aside from the engine and rear harness, the Main harness IS everything under the LH dash and out to the perimeter of the engine compartment. There is no "main-plug" at the firewall connecting passenger side to engine side, if you follow). Pulling cluster might help seeing whats connected correctly back there and around the ignitions switch (there are at least 3 distinct harness connections for the ignition). Also there is a fusible link wired into the ign switch area too that can be checked.
If I was to hazard a guess (and I am NO electrical guy) - I would have a hard look at the ign switch and its harness connections as a start.
Obv. DD's wiring diagram in hand will help understand what and where all these plug in... be methodical. Check connectors for fit - and any damage. Did a previous owner re-wire there for a deck or anything??
'luck - and keep us posted-
Stu Aull
80 GS
Alaska
04-14-11, 04:44 AM
#7
Have you actually removed the main fusible links and inspected them? The terminals in the box and on the end of the links can get corroded. I would start by removing the links and the main wire from the battery at the link box. Clean each terminal with a wire brush or sand paper. I agree with Stu. Don't take the dash out yet.
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04-14-11, 09:36 AM
#8
The methodical way to tackle this, with the minimum of tool time, is to:
1) make a detailed list of everything that is not working.
2) find each those items in the wiring diagram.
3) print the appropriate pages
4) highlight the connections from the malfing components back to their sources of power
5) look for a common point that can affect them all without affecting anything that is still working.
6) test that common point
This takes more skull sweat, but it minimizes the amount of uncomfortable and difficult time you spend with your head under the dash.
BTW, first step in working under the dash should be to pull the driver's seat and put a thin pillow or a couple folded towels in the floorboards, fore and aft of the raised body stiffener. Then, you can lay on the floor with your legs in the hatch area comfortably & see most everything.
Taking out the lower air duct that crosses under the column is a big help, too.
1) make a detailed list of everything that is not working.
2) find each those items in the wiring diagram.
3) print the appropriate pages
4) highlight the connections from the malfing components back to their sources of power
5) look for a common point that can affect them all without affecting anything that is still working.
6) test that common point
This takes more skull sweat, but it minimizes the amount of uncomfortable and difficult time you spend with your head under the dash.
BTW, first step in working under the dash should be to pull the driver's seat and put a thin pillow or a couple folded towels in the floorboards, fore and aft of the raised body stiffener. Then, you can lay on the floor with your legs in the hatch area comfortably & see most everything.
Taking out the lower air duct that crosses under the column is a big help, too.
04-15-11, 02:42 AM
#9
The methodical way to tackle this, with the minimum of tool time, is to:
1) make a detailed list of everything that is not working.
2) find each those items in the wiring diagram.
3) print the appropriate pages
4) highlight the connections from the malfing components back to their sources of power
5) look for a common point that can affect them all without affecting anything that is still working.
6) test that common point
This takes more skull sweat, but it minimizes the amount of uncomfortable and difficult time you spend with your head under the dash.
BTW, first step in working under the dash should be to pull the driver's seat and put a thin pillow or a couple folded towels in the floorboards, fore and aft of the raised body stiffener. Then, you can lay on the floor with your legs in the hatch area comfortably & see most everything.
Taking out the lower air duct that crosses under the column is a big help, too.
1) make a detailed list of everything that is not working.
2) find each those items in the wiring diagram.
3) print the appropriate pages
4) highlight the connections from the malfing components back to their sources of power
5) look for a common point that can affect them all without affecting anything that is still working.
6) test that common point
This takes more skull sweat, but it minimizes the amount of uncomfortable and difficult time you spend with your head under the dash.
BTW, first step in working under the dash should be to pull the driver's seat and put a thin pillow or a couple folded towels in the floorboards, fore and aft of the raised body stiffener. Then, you can lay on the floor with your legs in the hatch area comfortably & see most everything.
Taking out the lower air duct that crosses under the column is a big help, too.
sheee.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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