eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

i notice latelly that is been hot here that i can drive normal down the road and it stay cool, same if im on traffic, but when i step on it that the boost start going up the temp start going up too. goes from a 1/4 all the way to half but doesnt go past that. is that normal? pretty soon im gonna get a griffin aluminum rad anyways, just kinda wondering

rxseven

Stock radiator?

web777

Are you sure you're not running lean? How many lbs are you boosting?

setzep

I don't have a problem with my stock radiator

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

me neither.

Try making a heat shield for the Turbo and wrap the
downpipe.

Made a *huge* difference in under hood temps for me.

Rotortuner

I have no problems either, i run a stock radiator with a 13bt. i live in cool climate though, WA.

CJG

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

have you checked your lower radiator hose for collapsing?

Rotortuner

Oh, another thing, i run 100% Evans NPG plus, no water. I have been really happy with it.

CJG

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

yes is with the stock rad

web777: no is not leaning out, that was my first thouygt about but no the microtech saying that im not leaning or knocking. and im running 5 psi for now until i get my microtech tune up right.

direct: i did a heatshield for the turbo but i dont think it works verry well so im gonna see if i can get the stock ones for the S5 turbos and the downpipe i really dont wanna put a heat wrap on it because is a crome DP. plus im thinking to put a turbo II hood scoop replica on my car

diabolical1: no i havent because i replaced both rad hoses, heater hoses, rad (used one but in much better shape that the old one i have), but ill check it out

could the intercooler on the front cause to warm up? because in traffic it stay coolnot at cool if im going 65-70 mph but stay fairly cool only does it when i start boosting

web777

I don't think your FMIC because you're fine in traffic. I dunno. Did you try to have the radiator professionally flushed?

FB II

i say get the radiator flushed.

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

well i gess ill do that. its clean because i flushed it before i put it in but ill get it to a radiator shop instead

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

What fan(s) are you running?

elwood

iTrader: (1)

If you're gonna get an aluminum rad, I'd get something else besides Griffin. They use epoxy in their design, which is cheaper. The downside is it's less reliable, and more difficult to fix if you have a problem. For an extra few bucks, check around for C&R or Race Pro. They make all aluminum units that are more durable. A local rad shop can also set you up with something, sometimes at a reasonable price.

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

DF: i have a 16 inch fan and like i said it works fine in traffic im thinking to take it out and get 2 10s or 12s

elwood: i dont know, my friend have a griffin aluminum rad on his 2 gen and is all welded. alot of the 2 gen guys are using the too. i dont know were you see the epoxy on it

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I probably agree. What's the CFM on it?

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

im dont remember right now. i think is like 1200 cfm but im not sure

elwood

iTrader: (1)

First, just because a lot of people do something doesn't make it wise. Griffin makes the cheapest aluminum rads -- don't you think there's a reason they're so cheap?

Second, Griffin admits to using epoxy on their own website in the FAQ section:

"9) Why do you use epoxy on your radiators, and your competitors don’t?
Griffin uses epoxy to give extra strength to the tube to header joint. The epoxy also provides an extra level of leak protection."

This is B.S. They use epoxy because they can make 'em cheaper like that. Just try to take a leaking Griffin to your local rad shop to have it repaired. The first thing they'll ask is if it's a Griffin. If you say "yes" they'll say, "can't help you".

Now a Griffin may be a good radiator. Yours may never need repair at the tube to header joint. But for a few extra bucks you can do better.

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

ohh well, i still gonna get into itbecause im tired of that is getting kinda hot

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Well, you NEED at least 2500 CFM as a MINIMUM.

eddierotary

iTrader: (7)

DF: im gonna put the stock turbo II clutch fan back anyways because i dont trust the E fan right now, maibe when it gets colder i put it back