steveoO

hi guys i just have a question about the swap....is it pretty much like the TII swap or are there any other things i need to get that are different?

dean7

Your gonna need alot more information,, hasen't been done to much yet and your not going to find everything you need on the internet, prepaired for a bit... If you look through this forum, someone recently posted about his...

Not trying to be rude, but judging by your question, I wouldn't attempt it... Heck I wouldn't even attempt it if I had the money, still need some more knowledge lol... its alot different TII isnt bad, the 93and up rotaries get harder alot harder.

Manntis

So because he asked how different one swap is than another, you tell him to not try? Might wanna put your blanket in the dryer

trace01m

I don't know how to do either, but I say GO FOR IT!!!

People told me the 2JZ wouldn't fit in an 83 Corolla, either

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

There are 2 ways that this swap can go down.

1. Full FD front clip using stock twins, ecu, and wiring harness
2. Just the REW engine and intake running a single and aftermarket ECU

If you are looking to do #1 you will have to make a craddle for the engine. Using a GSL-SE front cover is not an option because you would be keeping the FD crank angle sensor and all that jaz, it will not fit in any other front cover. After that you will just have to sort out the factory wiring harness and transmission mounting. There was a writeup on this in the archive.

If you are looking to do #2, which I will probably be doing, you would save yourself alot of headache. Doing this makes everything just like a T2 swap but with the REW block and intake.

Hope this helps

z-beater

Not that bad of a swap actually. If you have the knowledge to swap a TII you can swap a REW. Since my swap has a large single I did not have to mess with the twins. Most complex part of the build is going to be wiring in the ECU. I would reccomend that you start with the FD harness and then later if you decide to mod the car you can just throw a PFC in it.

There are a couple things that are different.

1. bolts on the oil pan do not quite match up. You can drill/tap new holes or generously put RTV on the pan/motor. Don't place too much though. Drilling tapping is a better method

2. CAS. The CAS on the 3rd gen has magnetic pick-ups. Swapping over to a 2nd gen CAS is not a big deal. I just placed it in the GSL-SE stock hole.

3. Water pump. If you are not intending on using the stock waterpump you will need to modift the bolts that come out from the engine. They are too long for a 2nd gen water pump

I am sure that I am forgetting things but those are the major obstacles. Price is a fair amount more as well.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

SteveoO, listen to z-beater. He is one of the very few that has successfully accomplished this swap. Many parts of the swap are similar to the usual TII swap, with some of the noted exceptions. If you follow Steve84GS's post on his TII S5 swap, along with Z's, you will have most of it covered.

Be prepared to spend at least 50% more than you've budgeted for and buy a large bottle of Tylenol. The TII swap has been done much more than the REW and has more documentation to read through when you run into trouble.

Btw, welcome to the forum and the Darkside. In my sig line is a link to the online FSMS and other rotary related reading. Download whatever you need and read, lots.
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Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

I remember Kevinbtz posting a bit of a write up on the swap a little while back, search it up.

steveoO

thanx alot for the info trochoid and z-beater.....yea i know there isnt too much info on the swap so thats why i finally deceide to ask. I know im gonna spend more on this then a tII swap...but i got the 13b-rew for a steal only 800 bux for tranny,wiring harness,ecu, and the motor so i kinda have some money left over. Guess ill just have to read up more

steveoO

o and another thing how much room do you think there will be if i just use the stock twins or would it just be a better idea to just do a single turbo swap?

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Here you go: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/13b-rew-1st-gen-write-up-495644/

steveoO

ty for the thread Dan_s_young

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Oh yeah, quick question about this topic.....

What clutch, preasure plate, flywheel setup do I use to mate a REW to a TII tranny?

I searched, but not much info on an REW.

dean7

First off I thought that he was asking about a rennesis motor, and I was trying to be honest... Theres alot to be done. I never said not to try, just a little warning that a can of worms would have to be open, sorry if I came off to strong.

gonzz

I'm using a TII flywheel w/-rew rear counterweight, TII clutch and PP

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Since you will be using the TII tranny, you want a clutch kit that's designed for the TII tranny since the slave mounts on the tranny. Fun part is deciding which clutch kit to buy. That choice will be determined by the torque the REW produces and what the main use for the car is, i.e., street driving, autoX, roadracing or drag strip.

A good all around clutch that I've found is a ceramic/kevlar disc. Good holding power, reasonably gentle on the flywheel and pp and ease of engagement. I you aren't doing much street driving and a lot of hard drag strip launches, look into a brass button disc. They are not very street friendly, i.e. stop and go traffic, starting from hills, but have great holding power and zero break in time. they are, however, very harsh on flywheels and PPs. A 6 puck spring loaded disc is more street friendly than the 4 puck solid disc.

Button clutches are also not a good choice for heavily ported engines, such as a bp.

kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

I went with a 6 puck non-sprung act clutch with the h.d. pressure plate. I use this on my daily driver and have virtually no problems with it, however I am also using the stock fly wheel (smother than a light weight fly wheel). Depending on how you are going to shift the car under power you might want to go non-sprung. Since I have gone to a decent sized single turbo I have been shifting faster and have not been letting of the gas as much so the turbo will stayed spooled.

Good luck,
Kevin

z-beater

ACT 6-puck and HD PP. I am a little far from stock though. Both came from a TII. If you have any more questions just ask.

steveoO

is it possible to use the subframe from the fd and retro fit it to the fb?

z-beater

The subframe is too wide by a few inches. You might be able to modify it to fit. There are a lot more variables that you need to consider though. I would just swap the cover and call it a day.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Thanks guys. I may run in to a few more questions later. Right now I am planning everything out and getting all the parts I need squared away. I have begun prepping the chassis, suspension, and brakes.

This project is going to be extremely slow going. I know my final parts list will be around $15k, and even that isn't everything. But the final product will be a total blast.

TracerBullet

Hmmm, I wonder which would be better cause an engine swap for my Fb has been on my mind.


I have a 12a

which would be better to swap
13b or a 13b-rew.

elwood

iTrader: (1)

I'm using a similar setup -- ACT 6-puck solid hub, ACT Extreme PP, and lightweight steel ACT flywheel. I like it -- but then I've been driving a puck-style disc for a long time. It's important to note that the sprung hub doesn't do what most people think it does. It doesn't cushion the impact to the driveline when you dump the clutch. The springs in the hub aren't nearly strong enough to do that. As soon as you dump the clutch, they collapse totally. Their function is to absorb the pulses from the engine while you're at light throttle, which will keep your tranny gears from beating against each other and causing "gear rattle". I didn't want the springs because I race my car, and I had one sprung center clutch disc self-destruct on me. For a daily driver, the springs will probably increase the life of your transmission, and they will definitely cut down the noise under certain conditions.

I have an -RE engine in my car, and I've covered some of the issues/concerns with retrofit into an FB on my website. Some of the issues/concerns are the same with either engine: http://sites.google.com/site/elwoodsturbofb/

z-beater

Depends on your budget. Plan to spend 5k min for a stock TII swap.

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

or if you are very talented you can do it all yourself for less but you'll probably kill yourself for it