kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

well here is the write up with pics for the 13brew swap, There still a coulple of things that I probably need to put in it.


http://www.badongo.com/file.php?file...wr.doc&s=black

dantheman

iTrader: (4)

Nice write up. Wish I had the time and money to work on something like that.

Why did you not use a gsl-se front cover and oil pan? Will that not bolt on and let you use the stock mounts?

kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

thanks,

The 3rd gen oil pan is a good bit diffrent than the se mainly the fact that the 3rd gen has the motor mounts on the rear side housing , the front cover has the cas's on it so I could not use the se front cover ether.

rotarycrazy

iTrader: (8)

Very nice setup I was thinking about getting the 13B-Rew put in myne but havent decided yet since the 20B is still on my mind it will all going to come to the price of everything.
Is there going to be any more pics or so available just for reference so it would give me a little bit biger idea of how the oil pan is made and where the transmision mounts are at and so on.

Thanks Mindaugas

kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

yea, I am uploading pics right now so I can post the write up for people that cant open the file.

kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

13B REW 1st gen RX-7 install

First you will need all the tools needed for a engine removal/install plus soldering tools, high grade wire (for wiring harness modification), welder, cutting and grinding tools, a good drill with an assortment of bits, and . some saws (body, hack, and sawzal). Next you will need the FSM to both vehicles which can be found here www.iluvmyrx7.com I also suggest at buying the 3rd gen FSM in a book (made it easer when doing the wiring).

Now we can get to the prepping of the 13b-rew. First remove the sensors off of the 1st gen motor (oil pressure sending unit and water temp sending unit) and install them on the rew. If you have the money I would also suggest getting new external gasket set, and a rebuild if money and time exist. For the engine mounts I removed the rubber from both of them and drilled out the aluminum to accept a high grade bolt to mount it on the engine cradle. You should also think about doing the non-seq conversion on the turbos (less vacuum lines and solenoids)

For a transmission I would defiantly upgrade from stock. You can use the 3rd gen trany or a 2nd gen TII trany. I used the 3rd gen because it is what it came with. You will need the stock slave cylinder from the 3rd gen that will mate up to the rubber hose that went to your previous slave cylinder. For the speed sensor, remove the 3rd gen sensor and remove the e-clip that holds the gear in place. Now it is time to modify the 1st gen speedometer housing, you should start by removing the gear off of it by cutting and cracking it off. Now you will modify the shaft by grinding one side down so that the 3rd gen gear will slip on it in a semi snug fit. Once you have that complete you should put a high grade epoxy on the shaft and slide the gear on it and put epoxy on the end of it. Now you can cut your shifter hole in the body back by about 3 inches.

You should now set the rew into the bay. You will do this without the oil pan on, but with the transmission attached and set it all up on jack stands so that you will have a good drive line... You will now see where your motor mounts are going to go and also what oil pan modification you will have to do. Refer to pictures for this. Now make your oil pan put your 1st gen oil pick up tube on and install the oil pan. Cut the steel pipe for your application and drill your holes through the frame rails and mount the cradle. Your trany mount you can do it a little creative and just use L bar like I did and drill some holes in the body and mount it up, make sure to use large washers on the body mounts.

You will now have to make your drive shaft. Cut your 1st gen drive shaft front yoke off and the 3rd gen front yoke off. The 3rd gen front yoke should slide right in the 1st gen drive shaft, now measure and cut the drive shaft to length and slide the yoke in and weld it up. You might want to have it balanced.

Now the fun part, doing the wiring. Start by getting familiar with the 3rd gen ecu pin outs. If you did go the non-sequential rout on the turbos you are going to have to leave all the solenoids in place or replace the solenoids with 330 ohm resistors so that the ecu will still think the solenoids are there so it will not go into limp mode. You will have to extend and modify some of the wires in the harness, like the igniter out puts, and the fuel pump relays. Make sure to double check all of your wiring before wrapping it up. I highly suggest upgrading to a different fuse block instead of the fusible links. Also you will want to wire up a check eng light so you can check codes

Here are the wires that will most likely be cut with the wiring harness. This code is to be used with the ecu pin out.

1a +12v constant
1b +12v input when ign is on
1c +12v input when cranking the engine
1g igniter output for front rotor trailing brown
1h igniter output for leading light green
1i ground this wire with an on/off switch to get the cel codes
1j igniter output for rear rotor trailing brown/black
1k fuel pump relay -12v out put
1o pressure sensor input green/yellow
1t circuit opening relay out put for fuel pump
1u goes to the fuel thermo sensor
2b use this wire to go to the negative side of a 12v L.E.D. to check your cel codes
2j air pump relay….use a resistor or solenoid to trick the ecu


The 3rd gen alt can be used if you wire up correctly, which is easy. Just use the large gauge wire (12+) to connect to terminal “b” now with terminal “L” connect it to a ign switch +12 (+12v when ign is switched on). Terminal “S” should go to a constant +12v.



The stock inter cooler can be used but you have to make a good amount of duct work and brackets. I used the stock intercooler at first and then went to a front mount. Pictures can be seen below. With the stock set up I used an inline fan in the duct work and a puller fan mounted behind the intercooler. The front mount will support more hp and make more hp but will also make the boost lag abit.

For the exhaust I used a stainless steel down pipe connected up to a custom 3inch “cat back” the down pipe clears the steering idler arm but I am not sure if the stock cat would.

You will also have to find a throttle cable that will fit; I used a Mazda 626 cable from a local junk yard. There are several that you can acquire for cheap that will work with this set up.

This set up should have an adequate oil cooler either from a SE or 2nd gen should work fine. For the oil line I used a drimel to cut the ferules off some 2nd gen oil lines so that I could use the barb fitting, then I used high pressure oil line from summit to connect between the motor and the cooler.

The fuel system will have to be up graded also. I went with a walbro 255 in line fuel pump and used the stock fuel pump to feed the surge tank. You should also replace the fuel lines with ones from a SE, the in line is bigger than the 79 to 83 models and the return line is bigger than all 12a models. If you are doing this on a 12a car I would suggest getting a fuel tank from an SE or doing a fuel surge tank set up so you will not have fuel shosh and detonate your motor. You can use the fuel pump relay 1K and the circuit opening relay 1T to control the fuel pump with the resistor to mimic the stock set up.


This picture gives you an idea how low it sits in the bay.



This shows the cradle and the mounting bolts


This is the overall length of the cradle



This is the drivers side of the cradle


driver side cradle looking back

Here is the drivers side top mount


This is the passenger side

this is passenger side looking back

This is the passenger side top mount, notice the aluminum L plate underneath the nut


Here is the oil pan



here is the tranny mounts

setzep

Nice write up but aren't you a little scared of the oil pan hanging down so low like that?

kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

it looks a lot lower in the pics, and considering I have over 15,000 miles on it and have only scraped it once (trying to get up on a curb to get out of the street) I think it does preety good. However I would build it alitle diffrently if I had to do it again. The oil pan was the first thing I ever welded..... could have been better. lol

setzep

Hey, if you're fine with it so am I
It's always intresting to see complete swaps, ecu and everything. Makes tuning a lot easier.
What intercooler do you use?
If you like you can check out my turbo FB as well here: http://www.datsunracing.com/z/setzep

kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

nice car, I am thinking about getting a 13b-RE for my repu and leave the twins and the auto on it (If it will fit) but I am going to have troulble finding every thing for the complete swap.

the intercooler is a cheap one, but it works great the measurments of the core is 24" wide 12" tall and 3" deep with 3" in and outs

here is a pic of it.

setzep

Thanks. That would be a neat swap for a repu with some low end torque and great turbo response.

kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

yea, espesialy with the sequential turbo set up.


That a sweet super charger on your home page, did you make it?

setzep

The intercooler looks great, whats the strip of aluminum for that's under it? Some kind of mount? Also, where is your oil cooler? I don't see it in any of your pic's

kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

yea, the aluminum is a L bar that is made into a mount.

for the oil cooler I used the 12a beehive.






well maybe not, I used a SE or a 2nd gen oil cooler...cant remember.

setzep

My buddy made it for his 383 chevy. The housing and compressor wheel is from a large turbo and he made the rest (he's a machinist) except the ceramic ball bearings and the gear set (it's from a two stroke engine). He just got it on his car before the snow flew but did get to have a little fun with it. He's expecting somewhere around 700hp.

kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

that sounds cool..... can he make more?

setzep

For a price anything can be done. BUT I do know he is really busy at work these days. I doubt he'll want to make another one untill he knows 100% this one has all the kinks worked out of it.

d0 Luck

this should be archived..

FB II

^agreed^

MattG

iTrader: (2)

I also agree.

I plan on using this write up to do my swap. As I think that it is a very good and simple write up on this subject. I mean how many times do we see this question come up, A ton!

I plan on doing everything the same, but I have a little different way in mind for the oil pan.

kevinbtz

iTrader: (4)

yea, a dry slump would be the best for this project.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well i can get a 91 twin turbo from what the guy tells me the turbos are nice and shiny plus there biger then stock and the engine internals are done this is a jdm engine for 2000$ it comes with all i need to make it run but a fule pump witch one should i get?? i dont have much time or money to swap this im hopinh to get it in and runing in one week working nights after work in the shop where i work as a mechanic might have to speelp in the shop for most of the week lol

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

ps nice wright up will help me out lots, o and Y cant u use the stock oil pan if you make custon mounts like that

Manntis

Nice writeup and results! Watch that CP Racing tower bar for broken welds, though...

82transam

iTrader: (18)

really you've had problems with the bar breaking manntis? Andto answer immanual 7's question, both the fc and fd oil pans won't work because the steering linkage is in the way. And 91 engines are single turbo stock, what kind of setup does this engine have on it? if its from one of those import sites you might wanna check into it more closely....