rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

I have looked thru many threads regarding this swap and it seems that no one has done what i am about to do. I plan on using the side irons (intakes,) from a 13Brew (S6) with my S5 rotor housings, S5 rotating assembly, gsl-se front cover and oil pan. The reason for using the sides off a S6 is the dowel pin strength. I have already gone thru 2 rear irons and their dreaded weak link. The last was as the car was being tuned by Steve Kan, the clutch didnt hold up and let go completely, engine revved as if i gave it a shot of crack, and the infamous snap was heard. It was something completely out of control even in the hands of Steve.
So I'd like to hear what you guys think of this setup. I realize i have to drill/tap some of the rear holes for the oil pan, but other than that it seems as a straight forward setup.

comments and ideas welcome.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

what do you mean it hasn't been done? see kevinbtz and z-beater threads. i would imagine by now, there are more out there, too - with and without the SE front cover.

as far as comments, what is there to say? it's a proven, potent setup as long as you know what you're doing, and if you don't, it's no more or less than any other turbo block. it's just a more flashy setup to grenade.

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

I asked this same question in the single turbo forum a while back and was flamed so bad I had 3rd degree burns over 90% of my body. I was told to search, but searched to hell and back and, like you, couldn't find someone that was doing exactly that.

My searching revealed that it can be done; however, I can't find someone that has done it to give advice. (I will look for threads by those that diabolical1 mentioned). It seems like everyone "knows somebody" that has done it, but can't nut up some real experience with it.

I found to keep the matching housings and rotating assembly and you can use what ever plates you want. I just worried about clearance tollarances on the gaskets that cross the different series plates/housings. Aside from that - you already addressed the other issues. Any ideas about keeping the OMP? Thats my main Question.

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

you have a lot of good points in general with regards to topics in this forum. Either way, he omp will be the major hurdle i see in this...i'll have to find a way to set it up similar to what i did when the setup i had was a S5. it took me a few hours, a couple of wire hangers to use as a mock up of where to route the linkage and some steel rod from home depot. once I had the hanger bent and twisted to where it would work, i used it as a template and slowly heated and bent the steel rod to fit. The first one I did looked rather "ghetto-fab" but after that was done I saw more efficient and cleaner ways to route it, so I redid it and it worked flawless. we'll see what the new setup brings......

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Oil pan will not fit.

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

nothing a drill bit and some tap/dies wont fix.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

HERE is a current thread (though, it carries a slight misnomer in the title) by Bridge it Baby. i don't see any indications that he'd be less than accomodating to questions about his journey/experience.

believe me, guys, the threads are here. you just have to search and have patience.

the threads i mentioned are pretty old. i honestly can't remember how far back you'd have to dig, but they are there. if i recall, i think kevinbtz eventually dismantled his car, but don't quote me on that.

which gaskets are you talking about? exhaust template is virtually the same for all 13Bs, and the intake gasket is generally dictated by which block you base your build on. i think your differences will come mostly on the oil pan and front cover. as mentioned before, you may have to get "creative" with the oil pan bolt holes, but it shouldn't be too bad. your front cover choice will pretty much be dictated by which way you decide to mount the engine.

which leads me to the OMP ... having never done the conversion myself, i can't say for sure, but i'll comment. if you're keeping the front mount setup, then fabricating the actuating rod will probably be your biggest obstacle. if you decide to keep the REW front cover and ignition system, then i suppose you'll either have to block it off and premix or find an EMS that will control it. i know there is another option out there that uses a reservoir and some other pump, but i'm not too familiar with it.

i hope some (or all) of this helps.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Would it fit on the engine though? Never seen the oil pans side by side in real life
yet though. It has a "kink" so to speak on one side. Plus the crossmember would
be interesting to see.



If it works, go for it!

Here is some reference material:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/13b-rew-write-up-764389/

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

You can use a GSL-SE oil pan with that combo. There are three holes in the right rear of the oil pan that do not line up with the RE rear iron. Another issue that you will have is the RE transmission. It can be modded to work in a first gen, or you will have to cut the shifter hole. Another option is the TII trans and flywheel. If you use the TII flywheel with the RE rear iron, you will have to grind part of the right side of the iron for clearance.

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

i'm not using the RE irons. i do have complete 13B RE manifold for sale though!!
i am using the REW irons. i was just measuring a lot of stuff and so far:
front cover wont be an issue, one hole extra that can be sealed with a drop of silicone. no biggie.
the only issue so far is oil pan. i'm gonna assemble a mock motor tomorrow and see what lines up and what doesnt and what to do to get oil pan to seal properly.

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

For those following - this requires the use of the FB oil pan, gasket and front cover......Both the RE and REW irons do not line up on all the holes. Just use the FB gasket to re-tap the irons or grab the RE gasket and re-drill the FB oil pan. This is the easy part......

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

Aftee looking at the oil pan issue closely, the easiest way is to drill a few holes in the oil pan....so far everything else goes together like a normal 13b. I am debating on wheter to use a s5 water pump or the s6. I hink the s5 will fit.. Got too late last night to do that. Once i clear that then its reassembly time for the motor... Yay!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you cracked an s5 rear iron? Are you running a Haltech?

This is way too much trouble just for an s6 rear iron. I've never cracked an iron, s4 or s5. And I've detonated plenty of times. I dynoed 386rwhp on my s4 rear iron and it never broke. Then I went to s5 irons when I refreshed the motor, just because I got a good deal on them.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

We've done it. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/pics-half-bridge-rew-62-1-bound-my-se-648276/

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

first one i cracked was my fault, i "accidentally" stepped on the gas pedal and SNAP!!
(car wasnt yet tuned......rest is history)

the second one (the one i am currently replacing) snapped while on the dyno. the car was being tuned by steve kan but there are certain things one finds out about a car when power starts going up....in other words...my clutch didnt stand a chance when we started turning up the boost, it let go completely, engine revved freely, boost spiked from 16 to around 24, and housing went bye bye. completely snapped off half of the dowel pin area in two separate pieces.
i always see a setback as a way to make improvements so in goes a new ACT clutch/pp combo good for 567 pd.ft. torque, fd housings, new bearings, hardened gears, and 4 1600cc injectors.

**** happens...just wipe and continue......words to live by....lol