12a to turbo or port???
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12a to turbo or port???
I have a 12 a rotary in a series 1 and i am trying to work out how to get the better rpms out of it and make it go harder is it better to turbo or port????
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if you have the money/time/patience go for the turbo,you will never look back.
BUT the other thing you can do is.......wait for it........PORT it and TURBO it,lol.
You will never look back once you turbo it.
BUT the other thing you can do is.......wait for it........PORT it and TURBO it,lol.
You will never look back once you turbo it.
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As MAZMAN says it depends how much money you are willing to spend.
The first question is are going to rebuild the motor, on a series 1 it is about time. If not porting is out. If yes then a street port will be ralatively cheap, and you are looking around 150-170bhp depending on your extractors and carb. You may may have ignition problems with a series 1. An upgraded fuel pump is essential. A realistic budget, unless you do it your self, is $3,000.
If you are not going to rebuild you could add a turbo inspite of the high compression. Several Uk and US tuning shops did that when the first gen came out. Depending on the turbo it will cost you up to $1,500. With a low boost set-up you should get 150-160bhp before you have a major problem due to old age of the seals and drivetrain. The J spec 12at put out 165bhp but needed a stronger gearbox and clutch
Thus, it is a question of whether you are going to rebuild or not. remember your insurance will really jump for a turbo,
If you take up MAZMAN's suggestion and go for both, you will have a real flyer with up to 250bhp and still just be roadworthy. Your 1/4 mile time will drop down over 3 seconds with your bank balance down by up tp $5,000.
The first question is are going to rebuild the motor, on a series 1 it is about time. If not porting is out. If yes then a street port will be ralatively cheap, and you are looking around 150-170bhp depending on your extractors and carb. You may may have ignition problems with a series 1. An upgraded fuel pump is essential. A realistic budget, unless you do it your self, is $3,000.
If you are not going to rebuild you could add a turbo inspite of the high compression. Several Uk and US tuning shops did that when the first gen came out. Depending on the turbo it will cost you up to $1,500. With a low boost set-up you should get 150-160bhp before you have a major problem due to old age of the seals and drivetrain. The J spec 12at put out 165bhp but needed a stronger gearbox and clutch
Thus, it is a question of whether you are going to rebuild or not. remember your insurance will really jump for a turbo,
If you take up MAZMAN's suggestion and go for both, you will have a real flyer with up to 250bhp and still just be roadworthy. Your 1/4 mile time will drop down over 3 seconds with your bank balance down by up tp $5,000.
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