I am thinking, from back here, that if you can get more fuel through the idle circuit (note: this is not the idle mixture screw) you will both eliminate that lean spot, and find that you don't need so much accelerator pump.
Getting the idle circuit tuned well is key to good drivability, most people let it run like crap until the main circuits start to come online, and patch over the lean area below that with the biggest pump cam and squirters they can find.

 

the idle circuit is in the throttle body right? Or the metering block?

 

It's in the metering block. IIRC it is called the idle feed restriction.
The idle circuit goes to the passage controlled by the idle mixture screws, but it also goes to the transition slot, which should only be about .020" or so exposed to the underside of the throttle plate at idle. (If that is not the case, fix that first! May not be an issue on a rotary, have had to drill up to 7/32" holes in the throttle plates to get the throttle plates closed enough on overcammed V8s to allow the transition slot to be properly covered at idle)

At low part throttle, before the main circuits get moving, all fuel comes from here, and fuel continues to come from here until the throttle plate is open too far for manifold vacuum to draw on it.

Wish I wasn't on mobile, I'd find some pics to demonstrate.

Ideally, if I were you, I'd shitcan the Holley metering blocks and get some fully tunable ones from Quick Fuel. It is easier to experiment and play around if you know you can go back, and it's really had to go back after drilling out a Holley metering block!

 

if it helps the idle and transition circuits work based on throttle position, the throttle plate needs to be close to create the low pressure to suck the fuel out. the main circuit works from air flow.

with the weber carb you can take the main jet stack out, and then you're only driving on the idle jet, and then you can do a test to isolate the main jet too, and it becomes really obvious what each circuit does. on the weber you spend about half the time tuning the transition between the two circuits

 

I've had ups and downs with the setup but currently seem to be doing well..... depending on temp and humidity which greatly affect the mixture I've got it idling well now and really cranks. Mileage after rebuild is now just under 1700 miles.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AlH1RZbq3FzLetG0YvsxZoAlxGQ

 

And pay no attention to the incorrect resistance temp Guage.... lol I have a mechanical temp Guage under the hood which is accurate till I get the correct resistor in line with the dash Guage. And I didn't notice how much it seemed like i ignored my big guy. I gave him some nods to let him know I was recording at the moment. 😆 he gets it being a rotor head himself. 🙂
also the afr wide band is bouncing like crazy, which just started this morning. Just now did a recalibrate and will see how that works on the trip to work in the am.

 

just saw your post! Any good sellers of these plates or just any seller work fine? Thanks!