NCross

iTrader: (18)

Or the M bolt was misplaced? Hopefully its a non rebuild solution.

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

M bolt (?)

All were identical except two. One was longer and I believe that one went on the outside under the exhaust manifold. I had one that was the same length as the others, but had shorter threads. Same length bolt but not as many threads. It came out of #15, very top middle hole, so that's where it went back in.

I'm at work and don't have my notes and photo archive here. I'll check tonight.

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

Other way around. The long one is #17, lower left corner.

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

What took 4 months of planning, research, and false starts the first time, took 4 evenings between 9:00 and 11:00 this time.

Now to find out why its leaking.

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

The tension bolts are at 29 ft/lbs and the M-bolt is in the lower right corner.

I appreciate the thoughts and well worth checking.

Time to open it up and find out what I did.
(A box arrived from Atkins so I have everything I need in case I take the stack apart.)

Getting the flywheel nut off was easier than getting the flywheel off. I need a bigger hammer.

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

Cause found.
We were all correct.
Yes I put the O-ring in.
Yes it got pinched.
Yes it fell out, well half did.

Mistakes:
1. did not put dowel pins into front iron and O-ring on, then put on front rotor housing.
2. When I did the first assembly, I did not fully check that if the front rotor housing was fully seated and continued with the stack. Not till I was putting the rear iron on did I see the gap. The front water seal had popped out of position. My guess is the O-ring was already split at that time. I verified it was in place on the front housing, but when flipping it over half the O-ring went on vacation, never to be seen again.

Anyway I have some relatively minor cleaning to do then put it back together.

And it turned out to be just the O-ring and not something more serious. And that's a very good thing.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

way to Bite the Bullet and dig in Tim! Interesting read, drama. Hope the rest goes drama-free tho!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

It's always good when you can find a definitive, correctable cause. Much more satisfying to the psyche.

I know how painful it is to tear down something you just built, but the payoff in long-term reliability will be worth it.

TimWilbers

iTrader: (1)

True. But I've uncovered other unknown issues along the way:
Cracking fuel lines: now replaced
OMP line weak spring clips allowing seepage- in the works.

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

I just rebuilt my fourth motor, the first three went off without a hitch, but this one had this problem, only with the rear o-ring. I have just got it together, solved the damned sticky needle problem, rebuilt the AC and drove it, running beautifully, for about 300 miles and then found the rear O ring leaking. I am lucky as it is the rear and will be straight forward and fairly easy to attend to. Its either missing or pinched, either way the motor will come out immediately, just wanted to thank you Tim as this thread was very helpful.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the dowel pin and oil filter base o rings are pretty close in size, and i have seen them mixed up!

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

I could have made that mistake, it'll be interesting to see what the problem is. Its a large flow of oil, I called myself being careful, but I wont be surprised if its just not there. This was a father / daughter rebuild, (its her car)
so I was not in my normal solitary, methodical mode when we stacked the motor, I could have overlooked it.

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

Good news!!

tonight after work I had a chance to clean it thoroughly and confirm the source.

and it’s the bee hive.

so I consider myself very lucky.

I never thought I’d be delighted to change the beehive o- rings , but I am, and will enjoy every minute. Even that impossible to get to nut.

Woo Hoo!!!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lol, yes that is lucky!