12A GSL - Sudden total ignition failure
06-12-19, 02:10 AM
#51
ancient wizard...
The "Flame thrower" is the igniter? I heard somewhere here that doing direct fire is a mistake. My car has OEM ignition. Those J109 igniters from the dealer were $700. And they look so frail compared to the GM ones.
So thirdpedalnirvana got the coil to barely fire by using a fully charged battery?
And what would I need a mechanic for? RX-7's are mostly simple to fix, except for this non firing coil.
So thirdpedalnirvana got the coil to barely fire by using a fully charged battery?
And what would I need a mechanic for? RX-7's are mostly simple to fix, except for this non firing coil.
Perhaps you should revisit wherever you read here that doing a DFI conversion is a mistake and who posted that.If you read the overview i wrote of how it works and its benefits you would understand how it improves starting and performance all around as in win,win.
You don't need to buy J109s from the dealer,they're made by Mitsubishi and can be found at parts stores for 1/2 that sometimes less. There are aftermarket igniters available,i had one on my car for 22 years before converting to DFI. It worked fine,i think i paid @$65 for it. That $65 is probably 3x that these days but a hell of a lot cheaper than oe from Mazda.
You know i try to treat all on this site the same as i'd like to be treated. You have a prior history of insulting,inflammatory and incorrect information in your posts. You have a fair # of posts here as a member. In this post clearly directed to me,your 1st sentence is blatantly incorrect and many here will attest to and your last sentence is yet another insult,not sure i understand where you're coming from and why.
You'll have to forgive me for not responding to any more of your posts directed towards me and i will refrain from posting in any of your future threads as i have come to believe you to be a troll.
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t_g_farrell (06-12-19)
06-12-19, 04:44 AM
#52
Full Member
Thread Starter
@GSLSEforme To clarify, I wasn't intending to switch the ignitors to see if the car would start. I was intending to switch them and test the spark from each coil again, to see if it reverses the situation. if I switch the igniters and the leading coil no longer sparks but the trailing coil does, I will have pretty much confirmed I have a bad igniter. If something else happens... well I'll take it from there.
06-12-19, 04:47 AM
#53
Full Member
Thread Starter
No. I discovered the leading coil was firing before I charged up the battery by testing it correctly instead of being a doofus and thinking that letting the coil arc to the body of the car with no wire over 2-3 inches was a good idea (PROTIP It's not). After charging the battery I got a slightly hotter spark from the leading coil, still nothing from the trailing coil.
06-12-19, 10:38 AM
#54
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
The flame thrower is a hi amp HEI ignition module made by Pertronix.
Perhaps you should revisit wherever you read here that doing a DFI conversion is a mistake and who posted that.If you read the overview i wrote of how it works and its benefits you would understand how it improves starting and performance all around as in win,win.
You don't need to buy J109s from the dealer,they're made by Mitsubishi and can be found at parts stores for 1/2 that sometimes less. There are aftermarket igniters available,i had one on my car for 22 years before converting to DFI. It worked fine,i think i paid @$65 for it. That $65 is probably 3x that these days but a hell of a lot cheaper than oe from Mazda.
You know i try to treat all on this site the same as i'd like to be treated. You have a prior history of insulting,inflammatory and incorrect information in your posts. You have a fair # of posts here as a member. In this post clearly directed to me,your 1st sentence is blatantly incorrect and many here will attest to and your last sentence is yet another insult,not sure i understand where you're coming from and why.
You'll have to forgive me for not responding to any more of your posts directed towards me and i will refrain from posting in any of your future threads as i have come to believe you to be a troll.
Perhaps you should revisit wherever you read here that doing a DFI conversion is a mistake and who posted that.If you read the overview i wrote of how it works and its benefits you would understand how it improves starting and performance all around as in win,win.
You don't need to buy J109s from the dealer,they're made by Mitsubishi and can be found at parts stores for 1/2 that sometimes less. There are aftermarket igniters available,i had one on my car for 22 years before converting to DFI. It worked fine,i think i paid @$65 for it. That $65 is probably 3x that these days but a hell of a lot cheaper than oe from Mazda.
You know i try to treat all on this site the same as i'd like to be treated. You have a prior history of insulting,inflammatory and incorrect information in your posts. You have a fair # of posts here as a member. In this post clearly directed to me,your 1st sentence is blatantly incorrect and many here will attest to and your last sentence is yet another insult,not sure i understand where you're coming from and why.
You'll have to forgive me for not responding to any more of your posts directed towards me and i will refrain from posting in any of your future threads as i have come to believe you to be a troll.
And so doing the direct fire ignition is a good change.
When I bought that igniter from the dealer, I was into the foolish "Genuine Mazda Parts from a Genuine Mazda Dealership" mindset. And I've gotten burned by indy pro mechanics too! Exorbitant prices, and bad parts/wrong parts (master clutch cylinder, spark plugs, igniters, nuts, brake shoes, idler arm bushing installation, fuel pump filter hack job, clutch job with driveshaft hitting the car body, antifreeze looked worse after the change). And that's just with the RX-7. With Porsche it is worse. Unless you sold me parts or worked on my car, then I didn't insult you.
Last edited by midnight mechanic; 06-12-19 at 10:49 AM.
06-12-19, 11:02 AM
#55
Sucker for Punishment
Turn down the lights, grab the popcorn 
. Please post your results. There are so many threads that are left dangling with no resolve. It would be great to read that you indeed tested the igniter and have confirmed its destruction.
. Please post your results. There are so many threads that are left dangling with no resolve. It would be great to read that you indeed tested the igniter and have confirmed its destruction.
06-12-19, 01:22 PM
#56
ancient wizard...
You sure it's me? I limit my posts to what my experience has been with the technical mechanics of the car, and my experience with professional mechanics. I've never insulted anyone on this site.
And so doing the direct fire ignition is a good change.
When I bought that igniter from the dealer, I was into the foolish "Genuine Mazda Parts from a Genuine Mazda Dealership" mindset. And I've gotten burned by indy pro mechanics too! Exorbitant prices, and bad parts/wrong parts (master clutch cylinder, spark plugs, igniters, nuts, brake shoes, idler arm bushing installation, fuel pump filter hack job, clutch job with driveshaft hitting the car body, antifreeze looked worse after the change). And that's just with the RX-7. With Porsche it is worse. Unless you sold me parts or worked on my car, then I didn't insult you.
And so doing the direct fire ignition is a good change.
When I bought that igniter from the dealer, I was into the foolish "Genuine Mazda Parts from a Genuine Mazda Dealership" mindset. And I've gotten burned by indy pro mechanics too! Exorbitant prices, and bad parts/wrong parts (master clutch cylinder, spark plugs, igniters, nuts, brake shoes, idler arm bushing installation, fuel pump filter hack job, clutch job with driveshaft hitting the car body, antifreeze looked worse after the change). And that's just with the RX-7. With Porsche it is worse. Unless you sold me parts or worked on my car, then I didn't insult you.
You talk trash about the trade,the profession and the techs that work in it, the theme stands out,your personal soapbox...
Clearly you were wronged and more than once.
If not able to do repairs to your vehicles,you will have to develop a relationship with a shop that can and you can trust. Do your due diligence and find a technician/shop that operates with a good work ethic and stick with them. Try the BBB for reputable shops in your area.This is not hard but it is your responsibility. Majority of car owners have found honest establishments that they patronize for years for that reason .
When you find a trusted repair facility,perhaps you could share your positive experiences here.
I’m out,no more thoughts,words on the subject.
I’ve made my point,as have you with several posts on the subject for some time now.
06-12-19, 01:51 PM
#57
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
GSLSEforme, nice DFI setup. I use the 2nd gen for leading now that I enabled the trailing ignition. I haven't measured it but the butt dyno and cold and hot starting was better with no trailing and 2 coils, one for each leading (Ford TFIs from JY F150s). The dual leading coil just doesn't produce as much ommf in the spark. I'm thinking of redoing my engine wiring and when I do that use 3 TFI coils for the full ignition. I expect that to perform better.
06-12-19, 02:59 PM
#58
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
Didn’t infer that you insulted me personally/said so in the post you’re referring to.
You talk trash about the trade,the profession and the techs that work in it, the theme stands out,your personal soapbox...
Clearly you were wronged and more than once.
If not able to do repairs to your vehicles,you will have to develop a relationship with a shop that can and you can trust. Do your due diligence and find a technician/shop that operates with a good work ethic and stick with them. Try the BBB for reputable shops in your area.This is not hard but it is your responsibility. Majority of car owners have found honest establishments that they patronize for years for that reason .
When you find a trusted repair facility,perhaps you could share your positive experiences here.
I’m out,no more thoughts,words on the subject.
I’ve made my point,as have you with several posts on the subject for some time now.
You talk trash about the trade,the profession and the techs that work in it, the theme stands out,your personal soapbox...
Clearly you were wronged and more than once.
If not able to do repairs to your vehicles,you will have to develop a relationship with a shop that can and you can trust. Do your due diligence and find a technician/shop that operates with a good work ethic and stick with them. Try the BBB for reputable shops in your area.This is not hard but it is your responsibility. Majority of car owners have found honest establishments that they patronize for years for that reason .
When you find a trusted repair facility,perhaps you could share your positive experiences here.
I’m out,no more thoughts,words on the subject.
I’ve made my point,as have you with several posts on the subject for some time now.
06-14-19, 08:40 PM
#59
ancient wizard...
GSLSEforme, nice DFI setup. I use the 2nd gen for leading now that I enabled the trailing ignition. I haven't measured it but the butt dyno and cold and hot starting was better with no trailing and 2 coils, one for each leading (Ford TFIs from JY F150s). The dual leading coil just doesn't produce as much ommf in the spark. I'm thinking of redoing my engine wiring and when I do that use 3 TFI coils for the full ignition. I expect that to perform better.
All mods done to the car i want to have option of returning to oe with no evidence of prior parts having been there,so no holes drilled to mount any of the mods. Complete original harness from distributor igniters,alternator output wire,harness for original ignition coils is taped up and routed down along frame rail underneath main harness going inside car. Out of sight out of the way,can be untaped and reinstalled in original configuration. Same for 2nd gen fusebox,remove fuselinks and mounting brackets and mount fusbox in place using original FC mounting bracket and an existing hole in inner fenderwell, fuselink wires plug directly into fusebox terminals. The bracket coils and modules mount on bolts into same captive nuts that originally held oe ig coil bracket in inner fenderwell.
In testing the 7amp Pertronix modules they ran fair amount hotter than Standard module so are mounted into heat sinks that are then bolted to aluminum plate.On the bench testing them i couldn't hold my hand on them,with car running i can reach under bracket and touch them. They're warm but not hot as in testing,the heat sink actually feels hotter than modules.
I made all the harness for modules/coils and used the original black/yellow wire for noise capacitor to trigger a diode protected relay that feeds coils and modules from 30 amp fuse in fusebox. Takes all load off ignition switch. Bench testing with/without relay in circuit showed noticeable rise in coil out put with relay in circuit.
If you haven't done so already,before you change back to 3 separate coils,suggest putting a relay in place to feed your modules and coils direct from battery. These things are a bigger load on ignition circuit than Mazda ever intended and with inherent voltage drop of old wiring,like what ThirdPedalNirvana is seeing,the system works but not to its potential. Relaying these circuits will give them a bump of 1-1.5 volts which is good for couple thousand KV increase of spark output from your system you should be able to detect with butt dyno. Give it a try.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 06-15-19 at 10:27 AM.
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t_g_farrell (06-15-19)
06-19-19, 01:32 AM
#60
Full Member
Thread Starter
...and the penny drops.
Finally got to swapping the igniters today. It is indeed a failed igniter, as now I have trailing ignition and tachometer but no leading ignition.
Now all I have to do is choose between getting an igniter or going direct fire on the leading plugs. I know direct fire will probably be the same money and will be more work, but should be better & more reliable. Other than some wiring, I need 1 extra coil and any igniter, right? Where do people mount them? I don't see an obvious place.
I found an oem igniter for less than $200. It's tempting.
06-19-19, 01:50 AM
#61
Full Member
Thread Starter
Quick question: Would something like
work for Direct Fire?
If I understand correctly later model RX-7's used a coil with a built in igniter that fires both leading plugs. Would i just need to wire up those two terminals to the ones that the stock igniter connects to on the dizzy?
I've seen people go the MSD 6A route but frankly at that point I'm just going to pick up a new J-109.
If I understand correctly later model RX-7's used a coil with a built in igniter that fires both leading plugs. Would i just need to wire up those two terminals to the ones that the stock igniter connects to on the dizzy?
I've seen people go the MSD 6A route but frankly at that point I'm just going to pick up a new J-109.
06-19-19, 07:22 AM
#62
ancient wizard...
If the extent of your testing was to swap igniters and check for spark and that spark was the same strength/color as found on leading ignition,you have not gotten to the bottom of your problem(s).Still looking for a shortcut.
You can replace leading igniter and the car will run,but for how long. When you do,am sure you'll be in a hurry,but take the time to do a leading coil output test to see the difference in spark quality/power,color than what you have currently and you will begin to understand what i've been trying to tell you. Take the time to put that new igniter into trailing position after you spark test the leading and post back what you find.
So,if all you want to do is get the car running for now,putting a leading igniter in,will get it to run and you can drive the car,it will run fine.If your fuel pump trigger/supply has been modified from oe and doesn't now depend on trigger from trailing ignition it won't matter if you have trailing ignition in the future.But you don't KNOW that... The tach will no longer work when trailing ignition fails but car will continue to run IF fuel pump circuit has been trifled with. When the car dies,no tach/no fuel pump/no fuel,you will then know the fuel pump was still dependent on trailing ignition to run. You will find leading ignition to be working fine. If/when this happens-to get home,you can switch tach/fuel pump trigger to leading coil and be on your way. The car will run,you'll have no trailing ignition,your choice to repair or drive car as is,some do.
A lot of people attempt going to DFI to try to cure no starts,driveability. As with others i will caution you against that. Unless you are certain you have all the flaws in your current ignition system correctly diagnosed,they will transfer to your new system. While converting to DFI is a worthwhile project for some more power and driveability,it is best done on a properly running car to begin with.
You can find igniters for less than $200,have seen a used good one on ebay for $53-seller has two. I have no issue sourcing used igniters,they can be tested,they either work right or they don't.
The coil on Amazon you're looking at is for an FD and relies on a driver in the FD ecm to control it. It will not recognize the sine wave signal your distributor puts out. The igniter in FD coil needs a square wave signal to trigger it.
Regarding physical arrangement of ignition coils/modules for DFI,search the site for that info,there's a wealth of information here on the subject going back many years.
You can replace leading igniter and the car will run,but for how long. When you do,am sure you'll be in a hurry,but take the time to do a leading coil output test to see the difference in spark quality/power,color than what you have currently and you will begin to understand what i've been trying to tell you. Take the time to put that new igniter into trailing position after you spark test the leading and post back what you find.
So,if all you want to do is get the car running for now,putting a leading igniter in,will get it to run and you can drive the car,it will run fine.If your fuel pump trigger/supply has been modified from oe and doesn't now depend on trigger from trailing ignition it won't matter if you have trailing ignition in the future.But you don't KNOW that... The tach will no longer work when trailing ignition fails but car will continue to run IF fuel pump circuit has been trifled with. When the car dies,no tach/no fuel pump/no fuel,you will then know the fuel pump was still dependent on trailing ignition to run. You will find leading ignition to be working fine. If/when this happens-to get home,you can switch tach/fuel pump trigger to leading coil and be on your way. The car will run,you'll have no trailing ignition,your choice to repair or drive car as is,some do.
A lot of people attempt going to DFI to try to cure no starts,driveability. As with others i will caution you against that. Unless you are certain you have all the flaws in your current ignition system correctly diagnosed,they will transfer to your new system. While converting to DFI is a worthwhile project for some more power and driveability,it is best done on a properly running car to begin with.
You can find igniters for less than $200,have seen a used good one on ebay for $53-seller has two. I have no issue sourcing used igniters,they can be tested,they either work right or they don't.
The coil on Amazon you're looking at is for an FD and relies on a driver in the FD ecm to control it. It will not recognize the sine wave signal your distributor puts out. The igniter in FD coil needs a square wave signal to trigger it.
Regarding physical arrangement of ignition coils/modules for DFI,search the site for that info,there's a wealth of information here on the subject going back many years.
06-19-19, 04:38 PM
#63
Full Member
Thread Starter
@GSLSEforme Thank you for your input on direct fire, I don't think I'm going to try to convert to direct fire at this time. You are correct that the spark color was the same on the trailing coil as it was on the leading coil when I swapped the igniters, so in essence I know I have 1 non-functional igniter.
Regarding my fuel pump, I'm not sure why my float bowls weren't empty, because I am pretty sure the wiring works like normal. When I would crank the engine when I was getting leading spark but no trailing, I did not hear the fuel pump kick on. After swapping the igniters, I not only observed my tach moving but heard my fuel pump kick on during cranking. It's not very well isolated and is quite noisy, so I don't think I just missed the sound of it. Also when I was trying to prime the system after I replaced it, I had to jump the relay in order to get it to run without the engine turning. I realize that this means the float bowls should have emptied while I was driving downhill with no spark, so I don't know why that didn't happen, but I'm reasonably confident my fuel pump is wired up the stock way. That would also explain why the car stopped running, since it wasn't getting fuel after the trailing ignition failed. The failure wasn't quite instant either. I was able to get about half a second of power from the engine before it gave up completely after I noticed the tach wasn't working, consistent with emptying the float bowls of fuel. I'm actually wondering if the line I saw halfway up the float bowl when I last checked was actually gasoline or just a line left on the glass where the top of the fuel usually sits. I know this car was parked for several years without much exercise under prior ownership. I didn't bump the car to see if it wiggled. There's fuel in it now because my fuel pump ran.
By "haven't gotten to the bottom of my problem" I assume you mean because my spark is the wrong color? I figured what I can do is get a new igniter for the leading coil and check to see if the spark coming from the leading coil is bright blue instead of yellow. If that's the case I know the igniter I currently have is weak and can decide what to do from there. If not and the new igniter is making yellow spark, then i'll have to check and see what's causing my coils to not build up enough voltage. I don't think there's any chance both my igniters are working, and I suspect any issue I'm having with cold spark was probably there when the car was running before the trailing igniter crapped out.
EDIT: I think I'm going to try cleaning any corrosion off the screw/washer that holds the igniters on. If I understand correctly that's how the igniter chips are grounded, and corrosion on the screw could be causing it to not work.
I'm sorry to not live up to your standards of thorough car repair, that I'm "looking for shortcuts"; I can't get the car into my garage & have to work on it on the street, and recently the only time I've had to look at it is during the 45 minutes of daylight I have between getting home and sunset.
Have you already detailed how to do the coil output test? If so can you point it out from above? If the new igniter also makes a yellow spark would that be related to the half-volt potential drop between the battery and the coil terminal?
Getting the car running again might just be good enough. I thought I could handle FB ownership after 6 successful years of Z32 ownership, diagnosis and repair. Unlike the Z32, I have started getting the feeling that I'm not getting as much out of the FB as I'm having to put into it. It may be time to see if anyone else wants to take the baton and keep working on her to get her where she deserves to be. I just don't want to be listing a non-running project.
Regarding my fuel pump, I'm not sure why my float bowls weren't empty, because I am pretty sure the wiring works like normal. When I would crank the engine when I was getting leading spark but no trailing, I did not hear the fuel pump kick on. After swapping the igniters, I not only observed my tach moving but heard my fuel pump kick on during cranking. It's not very well isolated and is quite noisy, so I don't think I just missed the sound of it. Also when I was trying to prime the system after I replaced it, I had to jump the relay in order to get it to run without the engine turning. I realize that this means the float bowls should have emptied while I was driving downhill with no spark, so I don't know why that didn't happen, but I'm reasonably confident my fuel pump is wired up the stock way. That would also explain why the car stopped running, since it wasn't getting fuel after the trailing ignition failed. The failure wasn't quite instant either. I was able to get about half a second of power from the engine before it gave up completely after I noticed the tach wasn't working, consistent with emptying the float bowls of fuel. I'm actually wondering if the line I saw halfway up the float bowl when I last checked was actually gasoline or just a line left on the glass where the top of the fuel usually sits. I know this car was parked for several years without much exercise under prior ownership. I didn't bump the car to see if it wiggled. There's fuel in it now because my fuel pump ran.
By "haven't gotten to the bottom of my problem" I assume you mean because my spark is the wrong color? I figured what I can do is get a new igniter for the leading coil and check to see if the spark coming from the leading coil is bright blue instead of yellow. If that's the case I know the igniter I currently have is weak and can decide what to do from there. If not and the new igniter is making yellow spark, then i'll have to check and see what's causing my coils to not build up enough voltage. I don't think there's any chance both my igniters are working, and I suspect any issue I'm having with cold spark was probably there when the car was running before the trailing igniter crapped out.
EDIT: I think I'm going to try cleaning any corrosion off the screw/washer that holds the igniters on. If I understand correctly that's how the igniter chips are grounded, and corrosion on the screw could be causing it to not work.
I'm sorry to not live up to your standards of thorough car repair, that I'm "looking for shortcuts"; I can't get the car into my garage & have to work on it on the street, and recently the only time I've had to look at it is during the 45 minutes of daylight I have between getting home and sunset.
Have you already detailed how to do the coil output test? If so can you point it out from above? If the new igniter also makes a yellow spark would that be related to the half-volt potential drop between the battery and the coil terminal?
Getting the car running again might just be good enough. I thought I could handle FB ownership after 6 successful years of Z32 ownership, diagnosis and repair. Unlike the Z32, I have started getting the feeling that I'm not getting as much out of the FB as I'm having to put into it. It may be time to see if anyone else wants to take the baton and keep working on her to get her where she deserves to be. I just don't want to be listing a non-running project.
Last edited by ThirdPedalNirvana; 06-19-19 at 04:49 PM.
06-19-19, 07:02 PM
#64
Sucker for Punishment
Glad to hear you diagnosed your issue.
This is what you do. Buy a batter if you haven't. Honestly man, if your battery can't hold 12.6 then its toast and you'll have to accept that science is science haha. It was mentioned above that a lot of testing is totally dependent on a fully charged battery. Trust your meter.
After you buy it, marvel at the beautiful blue sparks you will have. You will definitely see a difference.
Don't think, go buy a battery.
If you did buy a battery I apologize, this thread has become somewhat convoluted.
This is what you do. Buy a batter if you haven't. Honestly man, if your battery can't hold 12.6 then its toast and you'll have to accept that science is science haha. It was mentioned above that a lot of testing is totally dependent on a fully charged battery. Trust your meter.
After you buy it, marvel at the beautiful blue sparks you will have. You will definitely see a difference.
Don't think, go buy a battery.
If you did buy a battery I apologize, this thread has become somewhat convoluted.
06-19-19, 09:52 PM
#65
ancient wizard...
Man,i've already written a book in this thread,don't want to write another chapter... you are definitely going in circles,aka-chasing your tail. Really tried to keep this from happening by giving you specific tests,how to do them and in what order. You've done some,decided to not do some others.
What you have done is enough to tell me power to coils is good,coils tested good,wiring from coil to igniter and back to coil is good. Though you haven't tested pickup coils like i "suggested" you do,the fact that switching igniter back and forth between leading and trailing ignition shows some coil voltage being developed on leading/trailing ignition. Though not an absolute pass/fail test,odds are in your favor that both pickups are generating enough of a signal to trigger igniter/coil to fire and will start and run car once the rest is repaired
Regarding"having not gotten to the bottom of your problem(s),you have more than one,i was sure you did early on and if you look back in the thread i always used the plural.You have been and are pigeonholeing yourself into thinking you have found the one problem that the car has.
Ya know,it's not my standards... there's a right way to diagnose complex problems and then the wrong way? I have been trying to keep you on the right track throughout this thread. As far as can't get your car in garage,get some help to push it in,pull it in with another car-get it in the garage. For any chance of success in figuring out a problem, you need a space,with light at least to conduct tests. The 45 minutes of available light is not enough time for you to get in diagnosis mode,let alone do the tests as directed,we both know that. If i came to your house to diag that car the 1st thing we'd be doing is move it to the garage. You're handicapping yourself doing what you're doing.
Regarding the coil(s)output tests...remember what i told you to do in my 1st post in this thread and repeated @3 times? Pull the plugs,put them in their wires,lay them on the engine,crank the car and check spark at all the plugs. Real safe bet that has yet to be done. One more time,the only spark test that matters is what is available at the plugs.This tests the complete ignition system. The only reason i instructed you to remove coil wire from dist cap to test for spark from coil was to make you understand the way you were doing it prior to that was pointless and damaging to other components in ignition systems and likely what damaged your igniter(s) as in both.
You need to understand you need to replace both to get leading and trailing ignition up and running. The one you think is ok is near dead. Yes tach is wiggling,fuel pump is running. If you had done spark testing as directed from the beginning-at the plugs-you would have seen next to nothing or no spark at the plugs because what you saw at the coil wire was too weak and would never be able to jump the gap in cap/rotor and then at plug. I mentioned this exact scenario at least twice in this thread. The new igniter(s) will produce a strong blue spark at all plugs for certain. No point in cleaning screws of corrosion,not going to change anything. Remember when i directed you to remove igniters and inspect back side and mounting point on dist body for presence of thermal paste, another clue but no feedback on that.
If you're trying to fix car as cheaply as possible,replace leading igniter and move tach/pump trigger wire from trailing to leading coil. Do not skip putting thermal paste on back of new igniter,clean off remains of paste if there on dist body with a razorblade. Not doing this you can measure lifespan of replacement igniter in hours.
As far as comparing the Z32 to a 1st gen,there is no comparison regarding rotary engine and technology it needs to run.For someone new to rotary engines and 1st gens,it's a steep learning curve,can be frustrating. Plenty of others on this site that have dealt with these issues and worse and persevered through them and are proud of the outcome. It's unfortunate you live in a state that has most strict emissions testing in the country,you're past that now. It's a shame you haven't had much seat time with the car. As far as having to put more into the car than you're getting out,the car is 30+ years old and not a virgin when you got it. All old cars need some love,these are no different.
Will be a shame to sell the car at this point,maybe driving it after repaired might have you feeling different. You are very close to having a running car. Understand if you feel you have to sell it.
Post back with your final results so current and future followers of this thread can learn from your experience. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
What you have done is enough to tell me power to coils is good,coils tested good,wiring from coil to igniter and back to coil is good. Though you haven't tested pickup coils like i "suggested" you do,the fact that switching igniter back and forth between leading and trailing ignition shows some coil voltage being developed on leading/trailing ignition. Though not an absolute pass/fail test,odds are in your favor that both pickups are generating enough of a signal to trigger igniter/coil to fire and will start and run car once the rest is repaired
Regarding"having not gotten to the bottom of your problem(s),you have more than one,i was sure you did early on and if you look back in the thread i always used the plural.You have been and are pigeonholeing yourself into thinking you have found the one problem that the car has.
Ya know,it's not my standards... there's a right way to diagnose complex problems and then the wrong way? I have been trying to keep you on the right track throughout this thread. As far as can't get your car in garage,get some help to push it in,pull it in with another car-get it in the garage. For any chance of success in figuring out a problem, you need a space,with light at least to conduct tests. The 45 minutes of available light is not enough time for you to get in diagnosis mode,let alone do the tests as directed,we both know that. If i came to your house to diag that car the 1st thing we'd be doing is move it to the garage. You're handicapping yourself doing what you're doing.
Regarding the coil(s)output tests...remember what i told you to do in my 1st post in this thread and repeated @3 times? Pull the plugs,put them in their wires,lay them on the engine,crank the car and check spark at all the plugs. Real safe bet that has yet to be done. One more time,the only spark test that matters is what is available at the plugs.This tests the complete ignition system. The only reason i instructed you to remove coil wire from dist cap to test for spark from coil was to make you understand the way you were doing it prior to that was pointless and damaging to other components in ignition systems and likely what damaged your igniter(s) as in both.
You need to understand you need to replace both to get leading and trailing ignition up and running. The one you think is ok is near dead. Yes tach is wiggling,fuel pump is running. If you had done spark testing as directed from the beginning-at the plugs-you would have seen next to nothing or no spark at the plugs because what you saw at the coil wire was too weak and would never be able to jump the gap in cap/rotor and then at plug. I mentioned this exact scenario at least twice in this thread. The new igniter(s) will produce a strong blue spark at all plugs for certain. No point in cleaning screws of corrosion,not going to change anything. Remember when i directed you to remove igniters and inspect back side and mounting point on dist body for presence of thermal paste, another clue but no feedback on that.
If you're trying to fix car as cheaply as possible,replace leading igniter and move tach/pump trigger wire from trailing to leading coil. Do not skip putting thermal paste on back of new igniter,clean off remains of paste if there on dist body with a razorblade. Not doing this you can measure lifespan of replacement igniter in hours.
As far as comparing the Z32 to a 1st gen,there is no comparison regarding rotary engine and technology it needs to run.For someone new to rotary engines and 1st gens,it's a steep learning curve,can be frustrating. Plenty of others on this site that have dealt with these issues and worse and persevered through them and are proud of the outcome. It's unfortunate you live in a state that has most strict emissions testing in the country,you're past that now. It's a shame you haven't had much seat time with the car. As far as having to put more into the car than you're getting out,the car is 30+ years old and not a virgin when you got it. All old cars need some love,these are no different.
Will be a shame to sell the car at this point,maybe driving it after repaired might have you feeling different. You are very close to having a running car. Understand if you feel you have to sell it.
Post back with your final results so current and future followers of this thread can learn from your experience. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 06-19-19 at 10:21 PM.
06-19-19, 10:26 PM
#66
ancient wizard...
Glad to hear you diagnosed your issue.
This is what you do. Buy a batter if you haven't. Honestly man, if your battery can't hold 12.6 then its toast and you'll have to accept that science is science haha. It was mentioned above that a lot of testing is totally dependent on a fully charged battery. Trust your meter.
After you buy it, marvel at the beautiful blue sparks you will have. You will definitely see a difference.
Don't think, go buy a battery.
If you did buy a battery I apologize, this thread has become somewhat convoluted.
This is what you do. Buy a batter if you haven't. Honestly man, if your battery can't hold 12.6 then its toast and you'll have to accept that science is science haha. It was mentioned above that a lot of testing is totally dependent on a fully charged battery. Trust your meter.
After you buy it, marvel at the beautiful blue sparks you will have. You will definitely see a difference.
Don't think, go buy a battery.
If you did buy a battery I apologize, this thread has become somewhat convoluted.
The battery is not the issue with the no start,replacing the battery with another will yield the same results from ignition system. Components in ignition system responsible for weak/no spark. Op is certain to post back here with the how strong and color of spark will result from replacing failed components.
06-20-19, 11:14 PM
#67
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thank you for your input regarding the thermal paste. I have ordered some and will not install the igniter without it. I will absolutely pull the spark plugs and test the spark when it comes in, and see if the other igniter is dying. I will post back here.
FYI my driveway is a hill, about 7 feet vertical climb from where the car is currently up a 25% grade. Otherwise I'd have used the starter to pull it up the driveway. In hindsight, I'm glad to have a house that has a garage (I'm a Millenial living in the SF bay area nobody else I know my age can afford a house), but having an uphill driveway limits its usefulness when a car comes home on a AAA truck
It's not just "getting the car running" that is making me want to sell it. It needs a new gearbox, as the 2nd gear synchro no longer exists. It needs new shocks and springs, which I've wanted to do for the last 2 years and haven't been able to afford it for other fixes it has needed. The power windows need much TLC to work properly. The AC compressor is toast, the Differential is either worn out or was replaced with a non limited slip unit. The TPS is missing and the fuel gauge is tempermental. It's not that any of these problems alone would prevent me from keeping the car. It's that with my budget and schedule, it seems I've bit off more than I can chew. I like the car very much but I don't feel I get enough driving experiences out of it to make it worth it, especially when the maximum amount of time I will be keeping it for will be 2 more years. (I've promised my wife I will switch it out for an RX-8 when we get ready to start a family, for both safety and practicality reasons (cue the Renesis hate from the 12A/13B people. At least the RX-8 isn't older than I am, and I'd only get an S2.)). Coming to terms with the fact that it is financially prudent to sell one of my babies is not easy, this recent failure is just the most recent in a long line of straws.
But hey, I'm not running out of parking space, so if all I get are lowball offers it's not going anywhere and I'll continue to fix it up as I have the time.
Rotary Alkymist, my battery holds 13.4 volts after it's been on a trickle charger. I will trickle charge it again before I install the new igniters.
FYI my driveway is a hill, about 7 feet vertical climb from where the car is currently up a 25% grade. Otherwise I'd have used the starter to pull it up the driveway. In hindsight, I'm glad to have a house that has a garage (I'm a Millenial living in the SF bay area nobody else I know my age can afford a house), but having an uphill driveway limits its usefulness when a car comes home on a AAA truck
It's not just "getting the car running" that is making me want to sell it. It needs a new gearbox, as the 2nd gear synchro no longer exists. It needs new shocks and springs, which I've wanted to do for the last 2 years and haven't been able to afford it for other fixes it has needed. The power windows need much TLC to work properly. The AC compressor is toast, the Differential is either worn out or was replaced with a non limited slip unit. The TPS is missing and the fuel gauge is tempermental. It's not that any of these problems alone would prevent me from keeping the car. It's that with my budget and schedule, it seems I've bit off more than I can chew. I like the car very much but I don't feel I get enough driving experiences out of it to make it worth it, especially when the maximum amount of time I will be keeping it for will be 2 more years. (I've promised my wife I will switch it out for an RX-8 when we get ready to start a family, for both safety and practicality reasons (cue the Renesis hate from the 12A/13B people. At least the RX-8 isn't older than I am, and I'd only get an S2.)). Coming to terms with the fact that it is financially prudent to sell one of my babies is not easy, this recent failure is just the most recent in a long line of straws.
But hey, I'm not running out of parking space, so if all I get are lowball offers it's not going anywhere and I'll continue to fix it up as I have the time.
Rotary Alkymist, my battery holds 13.4 volts after it's been on a trickle charger. I will trickle charge it again before I install the new igniters.
Last edited by ThirdPedalNirvana; 06-20-19 at 11:17 PM.
06-25-19, 04:08 PM
#68
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
A street racer down here keeps telling me about another street racer that keeps asking about my car. The underground street racing scene is huge down here because we don't have state vehicle inspections. Point is, despite all the problems you have with the car, it still would be valuable to a street racer.
"the coldest winter I ever spent, was a summer in San Francisco" Mark Twain. So what do you need an A/c compressor for?
"the coldest winter I ever spent, was a summer in San Francisco" Mark Twain. So what do you need an A/c compressor for?
06-27-19, 08:46 AM
#69
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
A millennial that doesn't live at home still with the parents and owns a house with a garage. Congrats! You're a 1 percenter for sure! LOL Or maybe a unicorn.
Get another vehicle and push it carefully into the garage and work on it as you get time. You will regret getting rid of it. Also still get the RX8 too.
Get another vehicle and push it carefully into the garage and work on it as you get time. You will regret getting rid of it. Also still get the RX8 too.
07-11-19, 04:10 PM
#70
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
Thank you for your input regarding the thermal paste. I have ordered some and will not install the igniter without it. I will absolutely pull the spark plugs and test the spark when it comes in, and see if the other igniter is dying. I will post back here.
FYI my driveway is a hill, about 7 feet vertical climb from where the car is currently up a 25% grade. Otherwise I'd have used the starter to pull it up the driveway. In hindsight, I'm glad to have a house that has a garage (I'm a Millenial living in the SF bay area nobody else I know my age can afford a house), but having an uphill driveway limits its usefulness when a car comes home on a AAA truck
It's not just "getting the car running" that is making me want to sell it. It needs a new gearbox, as the 2nd gear synchro no longer exists. It needs new shocks and springs, which I've wanted to do for the last 2 years and haven't been able to afford it for other fixes it has needed. The power windows need much TLC to work properly. The AC compressor is toast, the Differential is either worn out or was replaced with a non limited slip unit. The TPS is missing and the fuel gauge is tempermental. It's not that any of these problems alone would prevent me from keeping the car. It's that with my budget and schedule, it seems I've bit off more than I can chew. I like the car very much but I don't feel I get enough driving experiences out of it to make it worth it, especially when the maximum amount of time I will be keeping it for will be 2 more years. (I've promised my wife I will switch it out for an RX-8 when we get ready to start a family, for both safety and practicality reasons (cue the Renesis hate from the 12A/13B people. At least the RX-8 isn't older than I am, and I'd only get an S2.)). Coming to terms with the fact that it is financially prudent to sell one of my babies is not easy, this recent failure is just the most recent in a long line of straws.
But hey, I'm not running out of parking space, so if all I get are lowball offers it's not going anywhere and I'll continue to fix it up as I have the time.
Rotary Alkymist, my battery holds 13.4 volts after it's been on a trickle charger. I will trickle charge it again before I install the new igniters.
FYI my driveway is a hill, about 7 feet vertical climb from where the car is currently up a 25% grade. Otherwise I'd have used the starter to pull it up the driveway. In hindsight, I'm glad to have a house that has a garage (I'm a Millenial living in the SF bay area nobody else I know my age can afford a house), but having an uphill driveway limits its usefulness when a car comes home on a AAA truck
It's not just "getting the car running" that is making me want to sell it. It needs a new gearbox, as the 2nd gear synchro no longer exists. It needs new shocks and springs, which I've wanted to do for the last 2 years and haven't been able to afford it for other fixes it has needed. The power windows need much TLC to work properly. The AC compressor is toast, the Differential is either worn out or was replaced with a non limited slip unit. The TPS is missing and the fuel gauge is tempermental. It's not that any of these problems alone would prevent me from keeping the car. It's that with my budget and schedule, it seems I've bit off more than I can chew. I like the car very much but I don't feel I get enough driving experiences out of it to make it worth it, especially when the maximum amount of time I will be keeping it for will be 2 more years. (I've promised my wife I will switch it out for an RX-8 when we get ready to start a family, for both safety and practicality reasons (cue the Renesis hate from the 12A/13B people. At least the RX-8 isn't older than I am, and I'd only get an S2.)). Coming to terms with the fact that it is financially prudent to sell one of my babies is not easy, this recent failure is just the most recent in a long line of straws.
But hey, I'm not running out of parking space, so if all I get are lowball offers it's not going anywhere and I'll continue to fix it up as I have the time.
Rotary Alkymist, my battery holds 13.4 volts after it's been on a trickle charger. I will trickle charge it again before I install the new igniters.
07-14-19, 07:41 PM
#71
Full Member
Thread Starter
Nope, I haven't lost interest. Just been busy and went away for a while to celebrate my grandfather's 95th birthday with him on the east coast. Sorry about the delay. Also, either by accident or by vandalism, the passenger side window in my RX-7 was broken. I know it wasn't for theft, because the car wasn't locked.
It's running!
I replaced the faulty igniter and the car is now working. I also checked the spark from the coils... both sparks are yellow, which leads me to believe that the other igniter isn't failing (either that or the new igniter I bought is failing, which I don't want to believe). I'm wondering if I may have damaged my coils, maybe I'll buy one and see if it makes a hotter spark. I just took an extended test drive, and if the not-so-hot spark is causing any problems, they aren't apparent during driving in any way. The engine is as happy as ever, and I know that I had hotter spark before, so I know that I know how the car is supposed to feel.
<sidetrack>
@t_g_farrell I know most Millenials, especially in silicon valley, don't have home ownership as a top priority. They either work in biotech or software and rent an apartment for $3000+ a month, or, as you said, live at home. I am proud that me and my wife are able to own something up in the santa cruz mountains, but I think it's important to note that mortgage insurance (PMI) up here is crazy expensive, and so we were only able to afford this house because my mother generously gave us the 20% downpayment we needed to buy it without PMI. Also because it's based on a 1920's cabin and costs about 30% as much as a house where I work in San Jose. I have a BS in Mechanical Engineering and my wife has an MS in child development and a teaching credential. Meanwhile, my best friend moved to Sacramento and bought a house for 75% the price of ours, with only 5% down and his PMI payments are like $50 a month, he and his girlfriend have no higher education; he drives a AAA tow truck. So I'm not sure how much of the millennial living at home stereotype has to do with my generation as much as it does with urbanites who insist on living in areas too expensive to buy homes
I wish I also had the expendable income to have all the cars I want. I'd love to keep my RX-7 and get an RX-8 S2 as well, but here's the deal: my car parts/stuff budget has been dominated by the RX-7. Not because it's rotary, just because it's old. If I got into car repair because I love car repair, this would be no problem. But I got into it because I love driving, and I'd rather spend my money on cool cars to drive than a mechanic. After 2 years, I feel like I've spent about as much time working on my RX-7 as I have driving it, and I still haven't fixed things that I knew needed improvement when I bought it. I am also becoming more and more weary of taking it out when I actually need to be somewhere (like work), because when it breaks down, it goes on a tow truck, unlike most of the other cars I've owned where they usually break in a way where I can drive it home. Plus, I've had a few too many close calls with the relatively primitive suspension, ending up in a spin because of a poorly filled in pothole upsetting the rear axle (at least I'm a good enough driver that I didn't wreck it, though I'm sure I could be better). Even though I got it for $3k, I'm not getting the value out of the car that I'd hoped. I'm not going to list it in desperation and take any offer, but money is tight right now and I'm willing to part with it for a reasonable price. I'm sure I'll miss it, but I'm happy to have had the experience of it, and I can honestly say there are other cars I'd want to own that I could see my self enjoying for a longer term than it, including the RX-8. The 12A has all the character and fun I want, but in CA where SMOG keeps me from tuning it up, the low performance is starting to be a drag.
But i'm not going to accept a low ball offer and I've got the driveway space. Plus, the community surrounding this car is the best I've ever experienced. I may love my Z32, and think it's a significantly better driver's car than the FB (feel free to disagree but I trust that chassis in a way which would be foolhardy with the FB), but I wouldn't touch the Z32 community with a 10 foot stick. It's almost all stance bros and drag racers. If sports car people just drove one without knowing it was 3200 pounds, I think there'd be more sports car fans like me in them; but the internet has spoken and anything over 3000 pounds isn't worth your time, apparently. Even though it feels roughly equivalent to an s2k or Z3 in weight, which are around the 2900lb mark. The only 2 cars I can see ever replacing it are a C7 vette or the newest (revised engine) miata, both of which I'd happily trade for, but both of which are 6-10x more expensive). My RX-7 on the other hand, I would be thrilled to trade it for an RX-8 or an FC turbo, which are not as far out in price.
</sidetrack>
To address the title of this thread, and to summarize for future readers, here's my understanding of what happened:
While driving my car, the trailing igniter failed. This caused the tachometer to stop reading and my fuel pump to stop running, and soon after my car stopped. I pulled off the coil wires and tried to see sparks, which is the WRONG procedure (don't do it!). Based on the apparent lack of spark I concluded my ignition system failed completely and came running to the internet for help. Once I was able to correctly diagnose only the trailing ignition wasn't sparking, I swapped igniters and found that now I had trailing but no leading spark, the fuel pump ran, the tachometer ran, and the car even coughed a bit when testing the spark, like it was trying to run. I also noted that both coils were making a yellow spark. I replaced the faulty igniter and my car runs beautifully now. The cold spark (and the failed igniter) may be due to me disconnecting the coil wires when I was "unflooding" my car by cranking it with the plugs out a few months ago, at which point I was observing hot sparks arcing through the air to the coil mounts. This could have done damage to my coils and explain why they are not making as hot a spark as they should, but at the moment this doesn't seem to affect the car's performance.
If you don't know what's wrong with your ignition, use GSLSEforme's posts. It's about as thorough a procedure as can possibly exist. Undisputed thread MVP.
It's running!I replaced the faulty igniter and the car is now working. I also checked the spark from the coils... both sparks are yellow, which leads me to believe that the other igniter isn't failing (either that or the new igniter I bought is failing, which I don't want to believe). I'm wondering if I may have damaged my coils, maybe I'll buy one and see if it makes a hotter spark. I just took an extended test drive, and if the not-so-hot spark is causing any problems, they aren't apparent during driving in any way. The engine is as happy as ever, and I know that I had hotter spark before, so I know that I know how the car is supposed to feel.
<sidetrack>
@t_g_farrell I know most Millenials, especially in silicon valley, don't have home ownership as a top priority. They either work in biotech or software and rent an apartment for $3000+ a month, or, as you said, live at home. I am proud that me and my wife are able to own something up in the santa cruz mountains, but I think it's important to note that mortgage insurance (PMI) up here is crazy expensive, and so we were only able to afford this house because my mother generously gave us the 20% downpayment we needed to buy it without PMI. Also because it's based on a 1920's cabin and costs about 30% as much as a house where I work in San Jose. I have a BS in Mechanical Engineering and my wife has an MS in child development and a teaching credential. Meanwhile, my best friend moved to Sacramento and bought a house for 75% the price of ours, with only 5% down and his PMI payments are like $50 a month, he and his girlfriend have no higher education; he drives a AAA tow truck. So I'm not sure how much of the millennial living at home stereotype has to do with my generation as much as it does with urbanites who insist on living in areas too expensive to buy homes
I wish I also had the expendable income to have all the cars I want. I'd love to keep my RX-7 and get an RX-8 S2 as well, but here's the deal: my car parts/stuff budget has been dominated by the RX-7. Not because it's rotary, just because it's old. If I got into car repair because I love car repair, this would be no problem. But I got into it because I love driving, and I'd rather spend my money on cool cars to drive than a mechanic. After 2 years, I feel like I've spent about as much time working on my RX-7 as I have driving it, and I still haven't fixed things that I knew needed improvement when I bought it. I am also becoming more and more weary of taking it out when I actually need to be somewhere (like work), because when it breaks down, it goes on a tow truck, unlike most of the other cars I've owned where they usually break in a way where I can drive it home. Plus, I've had a few too many close calls with the relatively primitive suspension, ending up in a spin because of a poorly filled in pothole upsetting the rear axle (at least I'm a good enough driver that I didn't wreck it, though I'm sure I could be better). Even though I got it for $3k, I'm not getting the value out of the car that I'd hoped. I'm not going to list it in desperation and take any offer, but money is tight right now and I'm willing to part with it for a reasonable price. I'm sure I'll miss it, but I'm happy to have had the experience of it, and I can honestly say there are other cars I'd want to own that I could see my self enjoying for a longer term than it, including the RX-8. The 12A has all the character and fun I want, but in CA where SMOG keeps me from tuning it up, the low performance is starting to be a drag.
But i'm not going to accept a low ball offer and I've got the driveway space. Plus, the community surrounding this car is the best I've ever experienced. I may love my Z32, and think it's a significantly better driver's car than the FB (feel free to disagree but I trust that chassis in a way which would be foolhardy with the FB), but I wouldn't touch the Z32 community with a 10 foot stick. It's almost all stance bros and drag racers. If sports car people just drove one without knowing it was 3200 pounds, I think there'd be more sports car fans like me in them; but the internet has spoken and anything over 3000 pounds isn't worth your time, apparently. Even though it feels roughly equivalent to an s2k or Z3 in weight, which are around the 2900lb mark. The only 2 cars I can see ever replacing it are a C7 vette or the newest (revised engine) miata, both of which I'd happily trade for, but both of which are 6-10x more expensive). My RX-7 on the other hand, I would be thrilled to trade it for an RX-8 or an FC turbo, which are not as far out in price.
</sidetrack>
To address the title of this thread, and to summarize for future readers, here's my understanding of what happened:
While driving my car, the trailing igniter failed. This caused the tachometer to stop reading and my fuel pump to stop running, and soon after my car stopped. I pulled off the coil wires and tried to see sparks, which is the WRONG procedure (don't do it!). Based on the apparent lack of spark I concluded my ignition system failed completely and came running to the internet for help. Once I was able to correctly diagnose only the trailing ignition wasn't sparking, I swapped igniters and found that now I had trailing but no leading spark, the fuel pump ran, the tachometer ran, and the car even coughed a bit when testing the spark, like it was trying to run. I also noted that both coils were making a yellow spark. I replaced the faulty igniter and my car runs beautifully now. The cold spark (and the failed igniter) may be due to me disconnecting the coil wires when I was "unflooding" my car by cranking it with the plugs out a few months ago, at which point I was observing hot sparks arcing through the air to the coil mounts. This could have done damage to my coils and explain why they are not making as hot a spark as they should, but at the moment this doesn't seem to affect the car's performance.
If you don't know what's wrong with your ignition, use GSLSEforme's posts. It's about as thorough a procedure as can possibly exist. Undisputed thread MVP.
07-17-19, 06:34 AM
#72
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
When I unflood the engine, I remove the plugs, reconnect them to the ignition wires, ground the thread of the plugs to the shock mounting bolts. I can check for spark when cranking the engine over. And the spark in open air helps unfoul them.
I don't think the trailing ignitor runs the fuel pump. My car ran with a bum trailing ignitor and erratic tack for longest time until it had to get emissions test.
Anyway, congratulations!
ps...$3000 rent, I use to live in Sunnyvale. The 1983 rent there is still more than the 2019 rent here in alabama. And we have a lot of aerospace defense companies here. The Sunnyvale women sure were hotter than they are here.
I don't think the trailing ignitor runs the fuel pump. My car ran with a bum trailing ignitor and erratic tack for longest time until it had to get emissions test.
Anyway, congratulations!
ps...$3000 rent, I use to live in Sunnyvale. The 1983 rent there is still more than the 2019 rent here in alabama. And we have a lot of aerospace defense companies here. The Sunnyvale women sure were hotter than they are here.
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