Heres a pic of my 12A EGI Extend port.

Running a Haltech E6X with EFI thottle body TPS and CAS

Anyone else got an EGI 12A extend port?

Im still running it in but was interested in knowing how much HP i can expect after Dyno tuning?

Also has a super light weight flywheel

 

where you get that rad?

 

Its a PWR radiator and Oil cooler, most of the parts i got from Tweakit in Sydney.

Here are a few links and a couple of pix

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...1f848246aa8e89

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...1f848246aa8e89

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...1f848246aa8e89

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...1f848246aa8e89

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...1f848246aa8e89

 

Have any pics of the porting?

 

No sorry it was a shop job.

Ive had a few issues with it though, the old engine housings were replaced as the finish was eaten away, new housings were expensive here in Oz (almost 700)

Also whilst im still running it in its got some funny quirks, like if you engine brake clutch and stop the engine will die and it surges when im cruising. All sound like fuel issues to me, so i hope they can be fixed when she gets dyno'd soon.

 

Are you running off a map tune or what? Extended is a large street port correct?

Sorry I'm still learning so I usually have more questions than answers.

 

Its been "road tuned" but is still yet to have a proper dyno tune. So should be interesting to see how it improves.

Yeah Extend port is a large street port

 

Dyno tuning it will not help any of your cruising issues what so ever ... you'll just be playing around with the top end, the only way to get it working properly is more street tunning time. Do you do the tunning yourself? You should hook up a laptop to it and go for a few runs every few days and see that its feeding back at you. Do you have a Wideband Hooked up to it atleast? That should help you quite a bit to try to tune it. Try to target for about 13.5 to begin with then start leaning it out from there to about 14.5's or higher for cruising and low throttle, and keep it in the low 13's in the higher rpms.

 

Depending on porting, throttle body size, tuning, exhaust, etc., 140-150 whp is within reason. Whoever built the engine should be able to give you a better idea, along with a full range dyno tune.

 

To give you power Idea's my 12a SP pushed out 153.9 on a mustang dyno which read the lowest of them all. After putting on a lightweight flywheel, which now i'm a believe of, i only had one run and my tps got out of tune so richened up the top end instead of having it at about 13.3's like i had it tuned for it was making pretty much the same power, my engine builder says that flywheels you can actually net about 8-10 whp on a mustang dyno. So even if say I gained 5 i'm pretty close to 160 whp and I think thats pretty good for just a SP 12a. Once i get some lighter wheels too to reduce inertia I'll be pretty darn good I think

 

Yeah i have the ability to hook it up but im not sure what software i will require as yet?

Is it fairly involved? its a far cry from turning a couple of screws now haha.

Also not quite sure what you mean about 14.5 and 13?

EFI is all new to me

 

He means the air/fuel ration, in which 14.7 is ideal (stoicheometric) at sea level for gasoline. Less than 14.7 is rich and more than 14.7 is lean. The only way to precisely measure it is to get some wideband 02 sensors. So start with slightly rich (around 13.0) and slowly increase it (using fuel maps/injector duty cycle I believe?) to where you feel safe going. Too much and you will start getting detonation, which I believe is a killer in a rotary.

What fuel management system are you running?
EDIT: I see its a haltech.

Are you running a mass air? (doesn't look like it from the pics) or just a MAP (manifold absolute pressure sensor) based system? The second is harder to tune, but ultimately better when its tuned properly.

 

Running a MAP system.

Its getting DYNO tuned next week ill post the results.

 

well got it back yesterday, it pulled 145HP on the Dyno Im very happy with it.

 

what size throttles are you running?

 

Good to hear ... I think there's more you can push out of it though. What do you have for exhaust? Maybe loosing a couple of ponies from there?

 

Yeah I thought so too, Ive got a 50IDA EFI harware throttle body http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...027a45bb2ca629 with extend street porting, the exhaust is 2 & 1/2 inch.

Still having real issues with stalling, its annoying as hell;

Whenever I come to a corner or a set of lights I begin to engine brake slightly, as soon as I come off the accelerator and hit the clutch the revs drop off very quickly, all the dash lights light up and it stalls!

Im running a Haltech E6X http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...027a45bb2ca629

Any ideas guys?

 

I was looking at the site you posted, it states"Note for engines with aggressive porting such as race bridge port or peripheral port engines you may prefer our Light flywheel. The lower weight SuperLight flywheel may hamper idle and lower rpm running." I know you said it is an extended port but just puttin out there for some consideration.

 

I don't know ... i don't think my lightweight flywheel made much of a difference in Idle quality, I thikn its more of a tunning issue. I'm not familiar with that ECU, but i would image it has something to do with decel being too lean and the MAP sensor not correcting properly if you're using that... Are you using just tps or map sensor or both?

Also for the exhaust i was more refering to headers ... what do you have for that?

 

Yeah that sounds like it could be an issue, its worth looking into

Im running a TPS and a MAP sensor together, i hope its just a tunning issue and not a mechanical part

 

did you post this issue in the haltech sub-forum .. they'd be able to help you better

 

i'd agree with dj55b with it being a matter of it being too lean. personally, i think your 50s and the flywheel help to aggravate the situation. i know some people set their idle mixtures with the A/C on as a way to counter stalling with the rapid decelearation of a lightweight flywheel. if you have A/C maybe you can try that. if not, then i'd say just richen it a bit.