I'm tearing down my first 12a rotary for a rebuild and can not get the eccentric shaft/pulley bolt off. Is this bolt left or right hand thread? I've read the manual
and it does not say nothing other than remove it. I don't want to snap it off.

 

it goes the usuall way, it's just stubborn.

 

It has some really strong thread lock, add heat to soften it.

 

okay, so the usual way is right hand thread?

 

correct, right hand thread. left hand thread would mean that one would have to turn the bolt/nut counterclockwise to tighten.

 

The front pulley bolt is harder to get off than the flywheel nut. I had to use a 3/4 impact gun to get the last one off and it barely removed it. If you dont have airtools then you are going to need a long breaker bar and someway of locking the rear flywheel from moving. Good luck. Oh I also sprayed some super penetrating fluid on and that helped alot.

 

Got the bolt off. Thanks for the info.

Mark

 

Bump on how you got it off. I soaked mine in PB Blaster for the past 2 days and broke 3 19mm sockets.

 

If you don't have an impact gun. Use a 19mm impact socket with a breaker bar. You might even have to use a piece of pipe over the breaker bar to get more leverage. There is no reason you should break sockets unless you are using cheap thin walled chrome sockets. GEt a good impact socket.

 

I have a good impact gun. I used Craftsman 3/8th inch ratchet and 19mm, also 2 1/2 inch ratchet and 19mm sockets. The breaker bar I used is 4 feet of pure RB Exhaust tubing. Impact gun just doesn't break it loose. Tried it on another engine with NO PB and it broke it loose just fine.

 

mine was stubborn and i used a good impact gun with a non impact socket (mastercraft from can tire) didnt break it and it just took awhile. A considerable amount longer than the flywheel nut

 

Did you torch the bolt.
Also when you apply pressure to your breaker bar I find that if you tap the breaker bar with a hammer, the the vibration from the tap along with the tension will break loose pretty much any bolt.

 

Haven't torched it just yet. I hate using power tools when tearing apart an engine. Not saying a torch is a power tool, but a air powered ratchet/impact are on the bottom of my To Use list.

 

Ok as ways said breaker bar and (instead of tap i would prefer to say smack/hit with agression) on the bolt and it should come loose

 

^^^ good call. That's what I ment to say, honest.

 

If only you knew.... Lol.

 

I fought with mine for 2 hours with a 650 ft/lb impact and pb blaster. Didn't do a thing... so then I took a propane torch to it for about 20 minutes. Nut came right off without much effort. You have to roast the thread locktite or it's not comin off. Huge breaker bar will do it too... some folks would put the bar on the bolt while putting the other end against the ground while the engine was still in the car then turn crank it over with ignition disabled. Poor man's impact gun I guess. Torch was a lot easier imo albeit boring.

 

when that bolt is reinstalled correctly it is held in with red permanent loc tite.
it states clearly in the fsm and haynes that you are suppose to heat it, that is the only way the loc tite is broken down.
i usually heat it for 2-3min with propane and they always come right off.
if your not heating it you are doing it wrong.

 

hey guys i have a question i was trying to get a answer for. i want to replace my e-shaft pulley, do i need to remove the 19mm bolt to get it off. can i mess up any thing just replacing the pulley.

 

yes, yes

read the above link to mazdatrix