jaidedeye

what are the pro's and cons and the price differences of both.

horsepower per dollar spent? suggested setups?

HP numbers on stock port turbo 12a? whats a stock rebuilt 12a capable of?


trying to figure out if i want to boost my 12a or do a 13bt swap. im only looking for 250whp.

rotarycrazy

iTrader: (8)

you can make 250whp with a 12a without a problem as far as cost wise goes if you do it right it will run about the same once you calculate all thel ittle things like rebuilding the carb and boost preping it if you can do it your self it will be 3-400 bucks there then the turbo bigger coils MSD box and so on with the 13bt swap it preaty much the same thing you need all the small things to make it work that you dont think of in the begining the only plus with the 13bt is the fact that you can go for more power without having to rebuild the engine on the 12a there are certain parts that have to be replaced becouse they are prone to failiure under heavy loads and the heat from the turbo.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Don't need a MSD box for a turbo 12a.

Spyride

sure dont. Im keeping my dfi setup and locking the dizzy. I got a 45dcoe weber which is a lot easier to prep for turbocharging, and a lot better to use then the nikki. Im using the 13btII turbo and Im going to weld a 12a header flange from rb to the 13btII manifold. I got the advantage of working in a weld shop though. SO making my exhaust and little bits will be easy. But when you consider that in all your looking at around 4k to drop a 13btII into your car (1500+ for engine trans and harness, another 1500+ for everything else) even getting a few things welded for you from a local welder (look in the phone book, you can always find one) for the 12a is still going to be alot cheaper. Maybe 1500 total

jaidedeye

can the 250whp mark be met on a 12a without an intercooler?

djessence

My guess is you wouldnt want to, just by *guessing* the amount of boost needed and the heat of exhaust on a rotary etc, i know i would definetly want one. Ill let the 12AT experts chime in tho

Spyride

oh. I forgot to add, that unless its a known engine, you should have it rebuilt and thoroughly inspected. When I tore down my 13btII, I though everything looked good. But as Im getting closer to rebuild I have found that even though my springs looked good for the side and apex seals, the metal was fatuged. I put jsut a little pressure on them and almost all broke, and more then a few in more then one spot. I will trust the apex seals but the side and all the springs are now going to be replaced

Spyride

Im not going to even try it. I will be using an intercooler. I would suggest it for anything over 5 psi. and you will need around 10 to get 250