Frogman

So Now that I have time, I have decided to rebuild my rotary engine.
Seeing as it would cost 1500$ to rebuild it my self in my shitty garage and Knowing me I would probably mess that POS up. I went to see if anyone could rebuild it in the LA area.
The lowest quote I got was 5800K dollars, and another quote I got was 4 k IF my housings were good, just for a basic bare-bones rebuild. I was expecting around 3k TOPS considering the kit is 1200$ and labor alone is normally 1500- 1700$ . I get the whole " 12 A's don't have housings or rotors made for it anymore and they don't seem to happy when I tell them I would like to reuse as much as possible, I don't plan on driving the car more than maybe 5000 miles a year, I just want the leaks gone.
Am I being overquoted or is this really what it cost to rebuild a 100 HP engine?

Edit. I forgot to mention. Atkins offers a pretty thorough rebuild with refurbished rotors and what not for for 3649$ ( shipping included), Banzai racing offers a very basic rebuild for 1650$ ( and like 600$ shipping)

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Looks like Atkins is a good option.
Also try Pineappleracing.com. Dealt with Rob for years. VERY knowledgeable rotor-guru (helped walk me thru my own rebuild).
In Oregon, been around forever....

Stu A
80GS
AZ

1BADRX7

I've heard lots of good things about Pineappleracing but unsure what they'd charge for the rebuild.
Another option might be to purchase another car that's had the motor rebuilt already? At 3k it sounds doable.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I paid $1500 for labor on my last rebuild and I supplied new new rotor housings I had tucked away and the rebuild kit and other small parts. I used Jesse Prather MotorSports in Topeka Kansas. Jesse is the goto person for a lot of racers in the midwest and he's a champion racer himself. I felt lucky just to get him to rebuild it.

Welcome to Jesse Prather Motorsports

aeenox

Hey,

Have you tried to contact turbo_dave? He is located around East LA area. I had my engine built by eddyrenown but hes out in Fontana. They can both help you get your rebuilt done. There is a lot of shops in LA area that can do the rebuild. But some of them don't mess with 12a's or carburated rotaries.

You can message them on Instagram just search them under their user names above.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

There is a lot of cleaning and inspecting and measuring and clearancing of seals and detail work and more cleaning and if u want it painted so the irons dont rust masking and painting then razor blade tape and overspray and God help you if you get the irons lapped even more hours of fun cleaning since lapping compound gets everywhere and is abrasive there better be none left during assembly. I spend at least $150 on cleaning supplies alone when doing a motor.

Its not dollar spent per horsepower here, its buying a motor that'll run great and last and not blow smoke and pass smog in CA.

Or you can get a brand new 5.0L Coyote longblock with manifolds and throttle body and a 2 year warranty and make 4.6X the horsepower for $9500.

Yeah.

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

Well, I guess that was a foregone conclusion when I bought a $200 RX-7

Frogman

Is turbo Dave on here? I don't mind helping with the rebuild, I just don't want to pay 5 grand for what is essentially a bare bones rebuild. My car is an automatic, I seriously doubt that engine is worn, if anything it needs a good cleaning due to the carbon deposits.

peejay

The seals are rarely what wear out, it is generally the rotors and rotor housings. If the engine is blown, like zero compression, then you will have eaten the rotor and rotor housing.

Atkins is selling 13B rotor housings cut down to 70mm for $1300 each right now, which is a steal. But if you do not have good rotors, they will wear quickly.

Just because the car only cost you $200 does not mean it is cheap. It is a classic car and clean examples are hitting the $20k range for certain year/model combos.

Fiat twin cam engines for X1/9s cost over $10k to rebuild correctly, in that respect a 12A is pretty cheap!

Frogman

My engine runs fine, it's literally just leaking. the coolant seal on the intake is shot, the dowel pin seals are shot, whatever water jacks are inside are shot as coolant goes bye-bye, that donut ring seal between the trans housing and the engine called it quits a while ago as it spills trans fluid everywhere. Aside from that when everything is topped off it runs great and starts on the first crank. The issue is it smokes like an MF after I drive it because it's leaking out the wazoo. We ran a compression test on it a few months back and it was running healthy numbers. 5.7 grand is pretty steep when I paid 2500$ for it. I can buy an S2000 for a few grand more. I love my Rx-7, but if its gonna cost north of 10k to get it running right then were moving into better car territory. Heck, I could always just save up and buy an Mx-5 for 15 grand which revs at 7500 RPM, is just as small and just as fun. But I'm obviously looking to keep my 7 and not go bankrupt =)

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you can buy a pair of NEW GSL-SE housings for that...

Frogman

I just got in contact with Eddy, seems like a good dude, and offered me a great price. Thanks for the recommendation.

Frogman

You can buy a GSL for 2600$ if you look hard enough haha .

ray green

iTrader: (14)

It's a long shot, but if you haven't tried it already you may be able to reduce the seal leaks to a tolerable level using an engine leak stop product.

I've had good success using Gold Eagle No Leak to virtually eliminate a serious o ring leak on one 12A and significantly reduce exhaust smoke on another.

As Trump would say, what have you got to lose?



https://www.ebay.com/p/1517838490?ii...RoCs7cQAvD_BwE

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Used this in my SAs front housing dowel leak and it knocked that way down! been 5+ yrs since and still humming along at about 110k miles...

Stu A
80GS
AZ

peejay

I should do that while they are still available.

For a 13B, I do not have any belief that I can machine them down to 12A size and cut coolant seal grooves in them!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i'm tempted too, but i kind of keep track and they sell about ~30 housings a month. racer price is under $900 for the pair

Frogman

I already talked to Eddyrenown and he agreed to remove rebuild and install my SA for 3 grand as long as my housings and rotors are reusable which they should be if anyone can vouch for his work I'd appreciate it. Thanks @aeenox
Also, I tried the seal and it just made my car leak in other places.

peejay

So what you are saying is, I should really renew my team membership?

I spent roughly $5k on my Volvo's engine this year and it is still broken. At this point my wallet feels like it can sit on a fire hydrant and touch the sidewalk, $900 for a pair of someday rotor housings won't even be felt...

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i think that is the cheapest place, straight from Mazda Japan to Mazda USA to you, N304-10-100C. that part number doesn't work in Japan (they never had a GSL-SE) the HB Cosmo one works, but Mazda Japan -> Japanese Dealer -> Amayama = $580, $100 more

lmao, yeah when you do apples to apples the piston engine is always $$$$$, a stock miata engine is like $6k now! and its like a 12A, Mazda doesn't have much stuff

Frogman

My neighbor has a racing team but i don't know him to well, he could probably get me dirt-cheap 12 A parts if i asked, but it be rude since i don't know him , i just see him bring his cars home .

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

He's into cars. You have a cool old sports car. Good way to make a new car friend

aeenox

Nice, Eddy is cool I knew he would be able to help you and not charge you an arm and a leg lol.

peejay

Mazda Motorsports only allows you to buy parts for the cars that you race. And you are specifically not allowed to resell them, and there are repercussions if you do.

Plus IIRC the 12A stuff is all gone, gone, gone.

Frogman

So all was great until I lost my car keys . I straight up lost them and have been looking for them for about 5 hours along with my family, no luck. Luckly my dads toyota truck keys open the car , but i can't unlock the ignition to unlock the steering.
Edit found them!