What parts would be required to do this, this is what I know:
Rebuild
Street Port
Upgraded Turbo
Upgraded Fuel System
Clutch and Flywheel
Magnecor Wires
NGK Plugs
Downpipe
Intake
FMIC

What else? Also, please be specific on what exactly parts are required.

 

Good luck!

Which engine core are you planning to do this with?

I think even with a peripheral port on a 13B 400HP would be stretching it...
But I could be wrong.

You're definitely going to need more than a street port.

 

definitely NOT a 12a. Get a 13b. 20b would make it even easier... I know, I'm being an ***, but, if you do happen to be trying to get that kind of power from a 12a, I'd say you're SOL.

 

hehe... at least I wasn't the only person thinking that...

 

you have to add a turbo before you can upgrade it.

I would have to say.

Engine :Ported 13b-re

Turbo: 60-1 62-1 to4b. Something close to that with a nice manifold

Fuel: 255 LPH minimum on the pump. I would recommend aeromotive pumps. Larger lines. 6-an minimum. 720/1600 injectors.

Flywheel and clutch: Kind of depends. A lighter flywheel will improve responsiveness and gear changes but will sacrifice smoothness and idle. I would recommend a Center force, dual friction clutch.

Stock wires will do, but you can do anything you want
Colder NGK plugs will be needed.

Downpipe. if you go with a TII motor and stick with a hybrid mazda turbo there are many downpipes to choose from. If you go with a full upgraded turbo, you will need a custom downpipe

Intake is up to you.

FMIC, check ebay and see what you can find. I got my Volvo intercooler, which is huge and fits perfect for $17.

You will also need a computer (haltech, tec II, Microtech)
And I would also suggest a S4 turbo tranny. You will have to modify the shift linkage and the mount but its not to hard.

400 RWHP in a first gen costs about $$10k-15K

But, if you want to go cheap. Talk to robert at Rotaryshack.com His name on the board is 680whp12a
He can hook you up with a blow through weber carb and turbo and intercooler.

Talk to him

 

i thought he already had a TII swap?

somehow i recall seeing his name in relation to a post about a completed tII swap... or something like that.

 

400 RWHP is a big number for a FB

82streetracer has you headed in the right direction. Haltech, BIG FMIC, Big fuel system, Full 3" exhaust.
I like the 60-1 turbo's. It would make 400hp with no problems.

Don't forget once you have 400hp you will need the drivetrain to handle it. Plan on upgrading the clutch, tranny, and rearend. Oh ya, and some fatty tires, otherwise you'll be burning them for days

Good luck

 

**** man, there is no way in HELL that a 12a street port will get you anywhere near even 300 hp!

I'm thinking.... Aaron Cake in the canadian forum said that a 4-rotor engine will make roughly 400hp... Or you could just go for a 3-rotor 20b with a big honking turbo (or two).

Now, you must realize, it doesn't take huge hp to make our cars go like mad. However, if you're looking for inspiration, go to www.ajc13b.com . His car is arguably one of the fastest quarter mile Rx7s on the planet... and he runs 350hp (according to one of his dyno charts). .....

Another thing you should try is called the search function. At the bottom of any of the forum's main pages (like the 1st section main page for example), there is a search box. Use it, and you'll find that about a million people have posted "what would it take to get to X hp?" or "What would it take to get an Xk redline?"

Jon

 

Ajc13b did a 10.3 with something like 550+ hp not 350.

He went from a huge port huge turbo drag motor to a moderate turbo and port for 350 and drivabilty.

His old motor was nuts. He lauched at 11,000 or something like that.

 

Nope, my bad, I thought that 400hp was as accessible in a FB as it is in an FD. Thanks for the answers!

 

Oh it is as accessible, if you're talking the chassis. Start with a GSL-SE (so you get that fun FB-mount front cover and the SE 13B oilpan) and go from there.

 

Remember though,

The FB is much lighter than your heavy old FD. It doesn't take 400rwhp to make it go fast! :P

Jon

 

It IS accessible, and it can be a hell of a lot more reliable and easier to maintain if you want it to be too. Not to mention cheaper. I am making 390 HP (GTECH) with a streetported 13B and Garrett T04B. It can be done with a little $$$ and the right parts, and trust me...it's well worth it. These cars fly like no other.

 

And then there's Robert from the Rotaryshack and his 726 rwhp 12A...

 

lets say fairly streetable and pretty reliable 400hp jsut to stop form going all out

 

Why wouldn't it be as accessible? A 13B-REW (or RE or T) is a 13B-REW regardless of what chassis it's in.

Now, if you're talking about 400hp with the 12A then obviously there's more work involved but it's possible.

 

yea.... what about that daily driver -SE DirectFreak posted that had a 12a in it, and ran like 10's.......


hmmmmmmmmmmmmm?!!?!?!

 

YEP! i remember that thread. ******* OWN! 12a power baby!!!!!!!!!!!! i ditched the 13b swap for my good ol' carb 12a.

-zac

 

there is a mob down here that will get you close for that if you got a deep pocket..

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Stage 4 - Low 10 / High 9 second turbo - FULL drive in drive out deal
As per 10 second package plus;

Garrett T04E/66 turbo

2 x Rochester 1000cc and 2x Bosch Indy 1700cc injectors

Stage 3 engine rebuild (dowelled/ported etc)

Front mount intercooler

3 bar upgrade for Microtech

2 x upgrade fuel pumps

3/8 inch main fuel line

Complete drive in drive out

$16,800

The package will produce in the region of 300+rwkw at 14psi and 350+rwkw at 26psi boost and in a well setup vehicle (up to 2600lbs) will run the ¼ mile in the low 10 to high 9 second zone.

Note**


A differential upgrade is mandatory.

A Supra turbo gearbox is highly recommended

A custom inlet plenum will boost HP to 380+rwkw at 26psi boost (add $700
----------------------------------------------------------------------

http://www.rotorworx.com.au/engine_packages.html

 

yeah, robert does have a 700+ rwhp 12a turbo..I saw the dyno run..the car was about to rip the front left strap off the dyno from the engine torqing the chassis up..kinda hairy actually.

For me..I'm happy with 225 rwhp at 2240lb car......at least for now

 

Dyno's can be fooled into coming up with any sort of figure you want and often vary from dyno to dyno even when set up correctly. With that sort of power he should be well into the 9sec bracket.

 

i saw both d.f and that silver 12a turbo(not a stock 12aturbo... it was made) first of SICK comes to mind i think he ran a 10.9 the last full run i saw@28 psi and i think it had a e6 haltec and a *** load of injectors(fuel is good) he broke something when he "bumped up the boost" going for 10 flat.

on my turbo 13b swap im planing it out like this.
sr5 block and lowwer intake my street port (smog this )

sr6 upper intake (this should flow so much better than a t2 upper)

huge fmic (still lookin)

1200's and 1600's cc that is.

still lookin at pumps

microtech lt8 (got this part atleast )

looking @ 60-1 turbos or t-66 i figure ill just turn the boost down... yea right i just need to learn more about the trim setups.

im planing on running 3"... i might slap in a cat.... or a hell of a silancer I HATE loud cars.... nobody wants to race them im going to make a monster bastered exh setup... picture getting a fd's apexi N1 DUAL(90mm cans 60mm tips) cut up and frankinstined on to a fb. I love a dual tip exh on a fb.

I have already swaped in a gsl-se supen... and plan on a sr 5 turbo tranny. also lookin at 17" rims.

I have discussed a t2 swap with a local mazda guru @ mazcare... he said they did 2 stock motor swaps into fb's... and said get ready to buy tires in bulk and im not sure if this was a little streaching of the truth but he said in 5th(12a tranny and supen) if you put your foot on the floor it would just start spining the tires... HELL YEA... i can picture all the rustangs wanting to pic a "fight" when im cruzing on the road.... and just wrap on the gas a little and break the rearend loose.... in 5th... and then say r u REALLY sure you want to do this? oh u do ok... drop it into 3rd and go like hell.

With the fuel calulations i have done ill have enuff fuel for 500+ but like it was said b 4 400 hp in a fd isnt the same as 400 in a fb. and i really only want a good SAFE 300 and then ill set up a 400?450?500? map and go scare the **** outa people.

and theres tons of little junk that will get you. fuel tank, motor mounting??? front ? (gsl-se) stock fc mounts welded up into a fb? fuel lines, and the main 1 is keeping the turbo power on the ground. I have seen a 4 port 13b snap a gsl-se axel.... it snaped it so clean we didnt know it snaped it... it looked like it was a shortened axel and was done by a pro... it was so straight and smooth you wouldnt beleave it.... and this was in a toyota starlet... holley 750 n/a 4 port13b and some NOS 11.81 and wastold he has to put in a full cage ... this is a full int car.in 9.5 of 10 condition even has a killer sys. in it... it really ***** people up when he pulls in the pits bass n after a high 11 sec run in a econ box.

 

see sig

 

theres a lad in a capital city near me where he got 300kW from a 13b re, and they dynoers reckon it coulve got a helluva lot more, im not too sure of the conversion but i know its more than 400 hp!

 

I will be looking at ~300hp with the 13B-REW swap I am doing, shouldn't be hard to take something like that and get it to 400hp. Heck the engines are selling for cheap if you get them straight from Japan, mine was only 1300 w/ everything, including the automatic tranny (that sucker got sold).