I just read several threads about how to take it off, and one about getting the bolt out on the end of it.

Problem #1: The bolt is on the end of the control arm right under the engine bay WON'T BUDGE. I've been spraying it with pb blaster, and hitting it with a hammer.

Problem #2: The 2 bolts which connect the control arm ball joint to something,(tie rods?) located just near the wheel/brakes won't budge either!

I've sprayed all 3 pieces with PB blaster and been working on it with fit wrenches and socket wrenches.

My car is sitting outside on the jack, and I need urgent help.
I appreciate it, thanks!

 

Get the torches. Control arm bolts rust to the bushing sleeve with great regularity, we usually can only get them out with a lot of heat and an air hammer. Destroys the bushing. In extreme cases, you have to get medieval with a Sawzall. Destroys everything but the crossmember.

On one of my struts, I had to get some really bad hackery with a Sawzall to get the strut off. Had to destroy the ears that the bolts go into, since one of the bolts *would not* turn. As it turned out, the reason it wouldn't turn was because the shank was rusted to the steering arm, it wasn't the threads at all. If I had torches (you need oxyeaceltylene to get things BRIGHT RED HOT, propane just wastes time) then I wouldn't have had to get so drastic.

 

Wow, you have good timing, I just returned from a four day vacation. I responded to your IM, but will post here too.

I ended up buying a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. Cut the bolt on both sides of the arm (between the arm and the frame). Takes about 3 minutes per side once you have the properly destructive tools at your disposal. Good luck with it.

 

Hehe, I tried a sawsall before I went and got the angle grinder. Spent a good two hours and went through five blades and barely made a dent in it. The angle grinder zipped through it in no time at all. That one tool is now my best friend!

 

Will I need to buy a new bolt, or what exactly does the angle grinder cut off?

 

Using oxyeaceltylene is sure going to get things hot, maybe too hot. You can melt metal if your not careful.

I've always had good luck with a simple plumbers hand held torch with a nice adjustable/self lighting tip. Just make sure its a nice blue flame and listen for it to work. You use the heat to cause the parts to expand and the expansion breaks the rust "glue" thats making things get stuck together. Usually you can actually hear it when the parts break away as little ping noises. Sometimes it takes a couple of applications along with the pb blaster, but eventually it will come off. Good luck.

 

It isn't flammable to spray some pb blaster on, and then torch it, right?
How long, in you opinion, should I torch it for?

 

The penetrating oil burns off *very* quickly.

If something is that stuck, I generally apply a nice good flame to it until the surrounding area is orange.

You'd have to be a special kind of buffoon to manage to melt the steering arm... melting happens long after the red/orange phase.