1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

*Dances around with the ecentric shaft pulley nut*

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Old 05-13-02, 05:16 PM
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*Dances around with the ecentric shaft pulley nut*

ha ha!

Me and my sister (yes my sister) popped the front ecentric shaft pulley nut off today, after breaking a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch drive converter, we finally did it, I bought a mastercraft breaker bar, had her on the end with the flywheel nut and the 2 1/8" socket on a slide 1/2 inch drive wrench with her feet pinned under the engine stand and a sand bag draped over the metal pipe i stuck onto the end of the wrench she was holding, i set up a step ladder, climbed onto the second step, got the breaker bar as tight and as far as i could get it and hopped off the ladder putting all my weight onto the nut and pop! off it came!

woohoo!

now looking at the flywheel nut, I am going to try some things (none of these things include purchasing the fly-wheel locker from mazda trix, any homegrown ideas?

thanks in advance.

cheers'
Old 05-13-02, 05:42 PM
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That's just dangerous!

Get yourself some air tools and be safe.
Old 05-13-02, 05:56 PM
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poor student syndrome!

cheers'
Old 05-13-02, 06:20 PM
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standard combustion

 
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Go to a local repair shop with the engine on the back and have them impact it off if you don't have any air compressor and high torque impact wrench
Old 05-13-02, 08:33 PM
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Driven a turbo FB lately?

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An impact had no problem knocking the nut off the back of this cosmo motor, but the front WOULD NOT come off with it. I have seen this 3/4" impact countersink lug nuts into wheels, but it would touch that 19mm nut...

So I locked the flywheel with a long iron bar on an engine stand, with the cherry picker chains on it just in case it tipped over, and used a big *** 1/2" breaker bar and long as piece of pipe and blam she poped off, it was so loud I was afraid to look I thought Id done broke the nut or socket


But what you did sounds very dangerous!
Old 05-13-02, 08:42 PM
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Go buy a 32mm half inch drive socket and take it and your engine to the closest tire shop or auto garage. Offer to pay one of the mechanics to take it off for you and he will do it and tell you to keep your money. Thank him and go home.

Mike
Old 05-13-02, 09:29 PM
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Re: *Dances around with the ecentric shaft pulley nut*

Originally posted by 4ohfour
ha ha!

Me and my sister (yes my sister) popped the front ecentric shaft pulley nut off today, after breaking a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch drive converter, we finally did it, I bought a mastercraft breaker bar, had her on the end with the flywheel nut and the 2 1/8" socket on a slide 1/2 inch drive wrench with her feet pinned under the engine stand and a sand bag draped over the metal pipe i stuck onto the end of the wrench she was holding, i set up a step ladder, climbed onto the second step, got the breaker bar as tight and as far as i could get it and hopped off the ladder putting all my weight onto the nut and pop! off it came!

woohoo!

now looking at the flywheel nut, I am going to try some things (none of these things include purchasing the fly-wheel locker from mazda trix, any homegrown ideas?

thanks in advance.

cheers'
I know someone who snapped a breaker bar attempting to remove the front nut this way.
Old 05-14-02, 04:26 AM
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I think for the fly nuts (i have two engine cores) the shop is the best place to do things like what I am doing, but the other ecentric shaft pulley nut will be removed in the "i'm a student with no money and not a care in the world, i still think i am invicible, pain whats that?" method as described above.... wish me luck.

Oh by the way, i have polished the front part of the engine (the one that sits over the oil pulley chain thingy (not sure what the name of the part is but it has the front counter weight on it) and I have realized that beneath the inch or so of horrible stank *** oil residue, lurks a wonderfull shiny metal piece (i can see my self in the distributor pipe mold)

this makes me happy.

anyway, it's late, i need sleep.

cheers'
Old 05-14-02, 09:42 AM
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Driven a turbo FB lately?

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Originally posted by 4ohfour
I think for the fly nuts (i have two engine cores) the shop is the best place to do things like what I am doing, but the other ecentric shaft pulley nut will be removed in the "i'm a student with no money and not a care in the world, i still think i am invicible, pain whats that?" method as described above.... wish me luck.

Oh by the way, i have polished the front part of the engine (the one that sits over the oil pulley chain thingy (not sure what the name of the part is but it has the front counter weight on it) and I have realized that beneath the inch or so of horrible stank *** oil residue, lurks a wonderfull shiny metal piece (i can see my self in the distributor pipe mold)

this makes me happy.

anyway, it's late, i need sleep.

cheers'
Theres a lot of people I used to know that used to ride motorcycles, they ALL had the same mentality. I think only 1 of them is still left alive. Also I used to know a lot of people that had the same philosphy when It came to drinking and driving and they are all dead too.

So weigh your choices, there is no replacement for the proper part or common sense!
Old 05-14-02, 01:19 PM
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Drinking and driving is something completly different, I have no patience for anyone that puts other lives before their own, I hardly think that me pulling a nut off an engine can be considered a life altering descision, the engine is on a 2 tonne engine stand, It is hooked up to the engine hoist so if the engine stand did somehow decide to break it still wouldn't fall on me, whats the worst thing that could happen? the nut doesn't budge and I smack myself in the nuts with the end of the breaker bar.

the back nut I am getting proffessionally removed because i have tried immobilizing the flywheel with a homegrown device but it didn't work.
I'll have reports of what happens when i get back.

cheers'
Old 05-14-02, 03:45 PM
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Driven a turbo FB lately?

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Originally posted by 4ohfour
Drinking and driving is something completly different, I have no patience for anyone that puts other lives before their own, I hardly think that me pulling a nut off an engine can be considered a life altering descision, the engine is on a 2 tonne engine stand, It is hooked up to the engine hoist so if the engine stand did somehow decide to break it still wouldn't fall on me, whats the worst thing that could happen? the nut doesn't budge and I smack myself in the nuts with the end of the breaker bar.

the back nut I am getting proffessionally removed because i have tried immobilizing the flywheel with a homegrown device but it didn't work.
I'll have reports of what happens when i get back.

cheers'

A big long iron cro-bar pushed through between the back of the motor and the flywheel works for me, but that was when I needed to remove the front 19mm nut the back I just went DD DDDDD DDDDDDDD vroom with mr. 3/4" impact
Old 05-14-02, 04:28 PM
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I went to the mechanic, his air tools didn't have enough pressure, went to another one, nothing doing, and the last one being fountain tire brought out an air tool that looked like it belonged in quake, he hooked it up, slid the 2 1/8 inch socket onto the end and VROOOM off it came in 2 seconds...

I was shocked and amazed.... now to remove the flywheel... ugh.

the front oil chain thing has been completly removed so i don't have to worry about that, but the flywheel is posing problems... gonna surf and see if i can't find some threads with info on how to remove.

cheers'
Old 05-14-02, 06:24 PM
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thread the flywhell back on the e-shaft about 3 or four turns. Take that thin metal panel off the right side of the motor. Get a hammer and whack the back of the flywheel. turn it a 1/4 turn and whack it again. repeat until flywheel comes loose.

Mike
Old 05-14-02, 07:00 PM
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I just had the same problem and I used an old seperator that fit in the grove and just whacked and turned. Do take off the panel. Do thread the nut back on a bit so the flywheel does not become a danger.
Also, for those terribley tricky nuts, I have found that a four or five foot long hollow metal bar, such as you might find in your closet holding the clothes up, greattly increases your torque as long as you can hold the engine down, just get the bar thick enough to slide over a breaker bar or rachet.
Also, the shaft on the flywheel side has a key that you need to remove before taking off the front cover.
Old 05-14-02, 07:19 PM
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well, I got it off, then ttok off the front housing and then looked at the rotor and almost screamed....

the internals (rotor) is COATED in black carbon, the rotor housing is nice and shiny for a few spots and then on the other side of the exhaust port (right across from it) there is a big ugly patch of rough rough rough metal (feels like the stuff the intake manifold is made of). The rotor came out and my cat hopped onto the bench and knocked all the seals over, so i am going to have to find a pic of the seal assembly... I will be taking pics of the rotor housing soon, but in all honesty, it looks like it's pooched.

One more question, how do i get to the other rotor housing? the first housing is stuck on tight, is there a bolt of something that i am missing?

cheers'
Old 05-14-02, 07:57 PM
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On my flywheel nut, I tried everything short of a plasma cutter, and then I found my 3/4" drive impact gun and it popped off in about 5 seconds. I was impressed .

~T.J.
Old 05-14-02, 08:01 PM
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My housings were all stuck together REALLY bad. Once you get to taking the rotor out per the manuals instructions, I believe that the only thing holding the housings together is the dowel pins. And unlike the manual says, they dont just slide out of their holes...Mine were a biatch to get out. Since my motor was garbage and I had a replacement anyway, I actually had to hammer the housings apart.

~T.J.
Old 05-14-02, 11:19 PM
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yep, this was what I spent my time doing... but hey, from this engine i got 2 nice rotors that will make pretty book ends.



cheers'
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