**starter dosent crank help**
#1
Ryan
Thread Starter
**starter dosent crank help**
the car was stolen and came back in one peice. THANK GOD.
ok so the ignition was popped out. the ignition switch would turn and there would be a click but no cranking???
ive replaced the starter with one that i know works and still nothing....
any ideas on what to check???
ok so the ignition was popped out. the ignition switch would turn and there would be a click but no cranking???
ive replaced the starter with one that i know works and still nothing....
any ideas on what to check???
#7
Rotoholic Moderookie
iTrader: (4)
The starter circuit is very picky sometimes, I know I had some problems with it.
Double check that you wired the starter in properly... if I had my webspace I'd post the diagram someone had on here a while ago.... I'll try and find the thread for it.
If the starter's wired properly, replace your ignition switch. It has to be able to conduct a current in order to cause the car to turn over, and if they broke the ignition switch to hotwire it, that could EASILY be your problem. Get a new one from a junk yard or parts car, and make sure it's wired in properly.... That unfortunately I dont' have any diagrams of, but you should have a Heynes shop manual, so check it. If you don't have one, go to your local parts store and order a Heynes - NOW! It's the best 20$ you'll ever spend.
Aside from those, and the obvious thing that the battery must be juiced, I'd say check the fusible links on the front driver's side strut tower. Those are a bitch when they blow... Just replace all three of them, any place that does rotary work should have a box of 'em and will give you a few for a buck or two.
When I find the diagram I'll post. Good Luck
Jon
Double check that you wired the starter in properly... if I had my webspace I'd post the diagram someone had on here a while ago.... I'll try and find the thread for it.
If the starter's wired properly, replace your ignition switch. It has to be able to conduct a current in order to cause the car to turn over, and if they broke the ignition switch to hotwire it, that could EASILY be your problem. Get a new one from a junk yard or parts car, and make sure it's wired in properly.... That unfortunately I dont' have any diagrams of, but you should have a Heynes shop manual, so check it. If you don't have one, go to your local parts store and order a Heynes - NOW! It's the best 20$ you'll ever spend.
Aside from those, and the obvious thing that the battery must be juiced, I'd say check the fusible links on the front driver's side strut tower. Those are a bitch when they blow... Just replace all three of them, any place that does rotary work should have a box of 'em and will give you a few for a buck or two.
When I find the diagram I'll post. Good Luck
Jon
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#8
Rotoholic Moderookie
iTrader: (4)
Here we go. A nice starter diagram courtesy of Pele (as far as I know.. he's the first one that I found posting it when I searched)
http://www.luxury-import.com/TSA-Stuff/starter.jpg
The solonoid on top has two bolts. One of the bolts has a braided wire that goes into the main starter body. Don't touch this one.
The other bolt should have two things connected to it. One is a small connector that gives current to your fuel pump, the second is the bigass positive lead from your battery.
On the top of the solonoid is a clip, to which attaches the small positive line coming from your ignition switch in the engine compartment.
The way it works is pretty easy to understand. When there's a small positive current from the ignition switch (ie: when the key is turned on), the solonoid lets the current from the battery travel through the solonoid and into the starter, causing it to turn. At the same time, current goes to your fuel pump causing it to pump fuel.
If not enough positive is getting to the starter, it will emit a "click" sound, because the small positive lead causes the gear in the starter to push forward and engage the flywheel, but there's not enough positive for it to crank. Otherwise your click is coming from elsewhere.
Hope it helped.
Jon
http://www.luxury-import.com/TSA-Stuff/starter.jpg
The solonoid on top has two bolts. One of the bolts has a braided wire that goes into the main starter body. Don't touch this one.
The other bolt should have two things connected to it. One is a small connector that gives current to your fuel pump, the second is the bigass positive lead from your battery.
On the top of the solonoid is a clip, to which attaches the small positive line coming from your ignition switch in the engine compartment.
The way it works is pretty easy to understand. When there's a small positive current from the ignition switch (ie: when the key is turned on), the solonoid lets the current from the battery travel through the solonoid and into the starter, causing it to turn. At the same time, current goes to your fuel pump causing it to pump fuel.
If not enough positive is getting to the starter, it will emit a "click" sound, because the small positive lead causes the gear in the starter to push forward and engage the flywheel, but there's not enough positive for it to crank. Otherwise your click is coming from elsewhere.
Hope it helped.
Jon
#9
On my 83 I have a thin blue wire attatched to the same terminal as the main starter motor wire. It almost looks like some one put it there afterwords. Do any of you guys have the same blue wire going to the main starter motor wire?? I know the black/yellow one goes to power the solenoid and the battery needs to be hooked to the other but confused why anything would need power only while cranking???
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