vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Damn that looks like a fun project Ray! I'm still mid-project on mine, still on the rotisserie last I checked, waiting for the engine bay to be sprayed so we can put the front crossmember back in, install the front suspension and drop it onto its wheels for the first time in two years.

There's really something to be said for a ground-up rebuild/restoration. My car went 25+yrs on its factory paint and now that we've stripped all those layers of paint and dirt away and fixed the rust, I'm hoping it'll last me another 25!

I'm not going to the same extent of resto as you in one area though : original parts. While yours is getting that beautiful original airbox and a rat's nest with all the fixings, mine got a Sterling and one of these:


Have fun, and keep us updated. It looks like it will be one helluva project!

Jon

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Thanks Jon.

Actually I'm not opposed to putting in after market performance parts. I still fantasize about 15 inch wheels and an Italian carb (a Sterling is too much to wish for).

But since I already own all this minty original stuff, I'll start there, get the car back on the road (probably about two years from now, just like your project) then start plugging in expensive new after market stuff as funds become available.

Do you have a link to your project? I'd love to take a look!

Kentetsu

That must be an old design from Respeed. Their current model connects at the hood latch mount, which reduces air cleaner coverage for the triangulated bars.

Poly bushings/end links for swaybars will not adversly effect your handling. Just be careful using them in the rear links, that's where you can run into issues...

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I'll look into the current respeed strut brace offerings and keep an eye out for a used one, thanks for the tip.

On the sway bars, it looks like I need to pick up a respeed, RB or similar for the front and fit it with all new polyurethane bushings and end links. For the rear just remount the original using stock rubber bushings and end links. Sounds like a plan.

On the subject of sway bars, do they lose their torque specifications over time? Would a ten year old RB front sway bar with 100,000 miles on it behave any differently than a new one?

Same question for the rear, which is much lighter duty. Will a 25 year old rear sway bar with 200,000 miles on it, like the one that came out of this car, be just as good as a new one or one with 100,000 miles? (I have one of those too).

Kentetsu

I believe that as long as the bar is not actually bent, it should serve the purpose.

If you go with an aftermarket front bar, consider using poly bushings/end links on the rear bar.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

That's kind of what I was thinking, a used bar is probably just as good as a new one. Shouldn't be too hard to come up with one of those.

And polyurethane front and back it is, thanks Mark.

Over the weekend I got a chance to tear down the three 12A cores that have been cluttering my yard for the last few years:













It wasn't a bad yield, I got the two good housings and rotors I needed. Two of the housings, the ones that came from the White One I, were toast:



Another pair, from the 12A that came with the car, were near the end of their useful life and not useful to me.

However the other two housings were very nice, nice enough to build a 12A with:





And the rotors are in good shape too:





I'm as happy as a clam on an unpolluted beach. Tearing down and rebuilding my first 12A. Doesn't get any better than that.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

and you finally convinced me to come off of the shift **** its in the mail Ray. i'll pm you the tracking number in the morning around 5:30 when i get up

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Looking good Ray. Make sure you use the right counter balance weights for whartever rotors
you choose. I guess the eshafts were all in pretty good shape.

I think Dave deserves a lot of beer for giving up that shift ****.

Cheers Dave!

Kentetsu

I love the smell of progress in the morning... Nice work Ray.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

So does Cathy Mark, nothing like waking up in the morning with someone who smells like axle grease and gasoline and has permanent black crud under the fingernails.

Tim, I'm going to use all the parts from the same engine to get around balance and fitment problems as much as possible. There's a cleaner eshaft from one of the other engines but I'm not sure it's worth the improvement to risk mixing the parts.

And yes, that Dave is one of the finest citizens in the RX-7 community. He could have kept this gem all to himself, but he realized it's higher calling as the finishing touch on the White One II project. It arrived today, took me ten minutes to figure out how to open the box and another 5 to remove in 30 layers of tissue paper, but finally it emerged.

Ladies and Gentlemen, meet my new shifter ****, an absolute bargain at $100 shipped:



Thanks Dave!!!

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i secured that box with a few layers of tape, lol and i wrapped the **** in a lot of bubble wrap... the main purpose was that it made it to GA safely to be installed on Ray's car. there will NEVER be another one of these ***** available new. you guys are looking at the absolute last known maroon **** available..and i was keeping it locked away for my next project. i realized that Ray would treat it well and enjoy it long before i could. glad you appreciate the **** Ray. if i ever sold it i was going to ask $150. buuuuuut, Ray was able to work his charm in prying it away, lol.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Dave my cutoff was $225, I pay the shipping. So thanks for not bleeding me dry!

I was just outside taking another look at the second best pair of rotor housings I got in the breakdowns and it occurred to me that I could put together an engine using this pair of housings, plus the various used parts that I already own from the breakdowns, apex seals, springs and such.

All I would need is an O ring seal set for about $125.

I'm figuring if I double up the apex seal springs it will make up for the wear and I might end up with a a 12A I can get 20-30,000 miles out of. Plus I get some practice for the real thing.

Any opinions? (This is the original pair that came with the car and the rotors are fine).

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Ray, i wouldn't bleed you dry, lol. i'm not a con artist or a guy that rips people off. i personally would never charge more than $150 for the unobtanium ****. i think anything more and i would be gouging someone. plus i'd rather give you a deal on the part, knowing you will appreciate it and that it will go to good use.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I think using those housings, especially the rear one in the pic, is a waste of your time and
money. If you want practice doing the rebuild, just put it all back together sans the new seals.
The only thing you wouldn't be doing is sealing stuff with silicone or whatever and putting new
coolant seals in.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Tim you are such a spoil sport. I mean think about it, if I can build a 12A that will last 10, 20 maybe 30,000 miles from throw away parts for the cost of an O ring kit, why not?

Worst that can happen is I'm out $125 and have learned a few things about 12A's along the way.

I'll take that rear rotor housing with the nasty flaking on top and use it for the front, put the better one in the rear and drive it till it dies.

The tear down will tell the story of what you can get away with.

Kentetsu

Ray,

Have you considered sending them to Goopy for resurfacing? Sounds like the service is dirt cheap, and people are getting great results. Just a thought.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

That's a great thought! Whose Goopy? Do you have a contact? Thanks!

Kentetsu

Here you go: Goopy Performance

If you decide to use them, do me a favor and let them know how you found out about them.

Lots of long threads on their services, but they are on a "different" website. PM me if you need more of a hint. lol.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure that one housing would qualify for the Goopy resurfacing. I suspect its too much
flaking. I would definitely send the good ones to Goopy. They will make them almost like new.

Don't worry Ray, I'm just jealous. You need to tell Cathy that you need a garage now to do this
work in.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

here's what u need ray

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...otors-1003785/

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Michael those prices for the new 12A housings are enough to get me thinking about a 13B!

But for now I'm going to try to use my used 12A parts to build at least one good 12A and maybe another one that will fire up.

The resurfacing idea would work if you have some superficial damage to the surface, but the one good set I have looks pretty good, the surfaces are like a mirror except for one annoying rust spot, which the resurfacing wouldn't correct (I'll put that one on the front rotor):



And the other pair has been worn pretty thin, so I don't think I have any candidates for Goopy.



So I still think I should just buy a seal kit and toss that well worn pair together with the recycled apex seals and springs. Who knows, it might work.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

any other updates on the body or interior??

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Nothing recent Dave, my summer break is over and I'm swamped with projects so progress will be slow for awhile, but I will update as soon as anything significant gets done.

Next thing is to get some good advice on what my options are with the 12A rebuild, so I'm checking with Billy, Crit and other locals on that.

Thanks for the interest!

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i always enjoy following your threads Ray! i'm down to one FB that i really love and i've been putting some money into my 94 Corvette to get it running well and back to normal. the previous owner had no respect for the car at all.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

that peeled one in the back is no good. however it was probably like that for 30,000miles...

there is a guy, glassman, on here, who is working on being able to rechrome the housings