When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks, I had it decorated for most of October, I made sure they were on tight and pop ups still worked if needed, it gave smiles to a few people.
I recently got the a/c functional again, I installed r134a style fittings, drained as much of the mineral oil as I could and vacuum filled a few oz of ester oil into the system. The factory condenser got a hole in it the last time I tried to fill it, so I installed a UAC brand CN20009XC 14x20 parallel flow condenser. The hard line running to the condenser got messed up so I went with a Vintage air 18 inch 8 AN line, which was a tight fit. I used new green o-rings where needed and also replaced the filter drier. After some adjustment it passed the vacuum test then I charged the system with maybe around 20 oz r134a or a little less.
It cooled pretty good, it cycled quite a bit from the frost switch but the low side pressure occasionally dipped lower than I'm used to on other systems that use a low side cycling switch. I also adjusted the throttle puller to idle up the engine when the a/c is on. After a week unfortunately while parking I heard a hissing and all the r134 leaked out at once. From what I can figure it leaked from the o-ring where the new vintage air line goes into the condenser, it's getting colder out here now but I'll still try to figure it out.
Since you’re already empty, might be an option. Plus you get to use the mineral oil. I think that thread has a chart that shows the fill conversion between r152 and r12 as well. If not, I have it in one of my docs.
It seems the leak might be from the condenser inlet line being a little loose, I tried to not overtighten it and squish the o-ring but must not have tightened it enough.
I've seen videos on using r152 before, just wanted to go with r134 for convenience and ease of access, with the parallel flow condenser r134 should still be able to cool enough for Ohio but I appreciate the advice.
Before next spring I might replace the hard line with barrier hose and 90* fittings, using a loaner tool from Autozone I was able to bend the new line but it didn't allow the bend close enough to the outlet and now the condenser is mounted to the side relative to the radiator because of how tight of a fit it is.
I had a seeping leak coming from the oil pan at the right hand corners front and back and a decently drippy one from the level sensor. I have the MTheory rack so I dropped that out, 6 bolts and a set screw, super easy! I had screwed around too long with that single un-wrenchable 10mm bolt before I finally did the right thing and raised the engine, just a bit was all it took. While the outside of the pan looked its age, the inside was spectacularly clean and in good shape. I refinished the exterior of course!
I installed one of the eBay stud kits and that made putting the pan back on super easy, but those studs look longer than they need to be to my eye. In any case, I use a bit of thread sealer, a bead of Permatex black, no gasket and followed all of the good advice here. Below are some photos of before, the pan interior 42 years later (with naval jelly for the rust on the edge), the oil level sensor for the curious, the stud kit installed, and finally the pan installed.
I'm in the 24 hour wait for the Permatex to fully cure before I refill the oil. It just kept dripping the entire time it was open, it seems there's always a little bit more oil to come out! On oil refill, I'm going to turn it over with the starter and no fuel pump/spark to build up pressure before firing it up.
Some interesting notes on the oil level sensor: it works with the black float bar inverted which rises in the oil and supplies a constant ground signal. So the low level (or sensor failure presumably) is indicated by open circuit. The sensor lives in that tubular section of the oil pan which stabilizes the flow in that area, keeping the float insulated from being too touchy. It has an obvious hole on the top of that isolation area and it must have one at the base but I did not see it.
I didn't have a new gasket for the oil sensor seal so I used the Permatex Black for that too, applying sparingly but effectively where the rubber gasket normally goes. I was worried it would inhibit the ground signal but it tested and saw continuity to the pan so I think all is good.
I installed one of the eBay stud kits and that made putting the pan back on super easy, but those studs look longer than they need to be to my eye. In any case, I use a bit of thread sealer, a bead of Permatex black, no gasket and followed all of the good advice here. Below are some photos of before, the pan interior 42 years later (with naval jelly for the rust on the edge), the oil level sensor for the curious, the stud kit installed, and finally the pan installed.
I didn't have a new gasket for the oil sensor seal so I used the Permatex Black for that too, applying sparingly but effectively where the rubber gasket normally goes. I was worried it would inhibit the ground signal but it tested and saw continuity to the pan so I think all is good.
Those studs are hilariously long, but may be designed to handle aluminum pans with thicker flanges, or maybe baffle plates?
The oil level sensor is grounding through the bolts. Permatex shouldn't be any more of an issue than the stock gasket.
But that's NOT Mazda Genuine ! A travesty ! ! I jest, some brag that their car still has the factory original electrons. Good job of being pragmatic.
Originally Posted by YellowFB
Working on making the car less musty smelling. It was missing vapor barriers on both doors so I made some out of the plastic sheeting we use to seal our porch in the winter and sealed it with silicone, then hooked a Damprid bag to the headrest for good measure.
Getting closer to finishing the gearbox rebuild. I found out shift forks are still available so got all new ones and had them WPC treated.
5th/reverse fork has been replaced with aluminum. I don't know if it saved weight with all beefing up it needs to be as strong as iron.
Got it together over the weekend. Not sure when it's going in the car, maybe with the new engine.
New bearings, synchros, and forks. I've had my 7 since 2005 and the two transmissions I've used had a bad synchro in 3rd or 2nd gear, can't wait to drive this one.
I've been chasing a clunk in the rear for a couple of weeks. It sounded like one of the rear shocks was loose at the top.
I must have had it jacked up and down 4 times, tried various things, test driven etc. before I noticed the very loose transmission mount bolt on the driver's side. There was about 3/4" of play, wtf!?
The last time *anybody* would have touched that it was me doing a clutch job years ago. I have no idea how that stud backed out of the body structure. It threaded back in smoothly and solidly, so no damage I can see.
Super happy to have found the noise and fixed it. Also now questioning everything I've ever tightened on the car.
Nothing special but this morning when driving my '85 GS to work in New Braunfels TX, I see its exact doppelganger on a trailer being towed by a truck on FM 32. Same silver color and all. They were behind me for a couple of miles so I pulled over at an appropriate spot, hoping the other driver would do the same. Rotary brethren and all that... but he kept going. My guess is it was just a transport co. and not the owner? That's only the second FB I have seen in my area in the last three years!
As an aside, I had planned on going (showing) to RADWood in Austin (COTA) this weekend but it's sold out for Entrants. General Admission is still available. https://www.radwood.com/
I finally bit the bullet and bought some Konig Rewinds in graphite. The inspiration was the picture below, from a BaT auction a while ago. My car is the same color and these just looked so good. I also have older tires (SS595) and the cost to replace in 13's was pretty high.
Searching here for tire size recommendations and reading about sway bar rubbing and @t_g_farrell good counse about avoiding having to roll fenders, I ultimately went with 195/50 15's in Yokohama ADVAN Fleva V701. They get great reviews for dry performance (and pretty good for wet) over at Tirerack, and honestly a good deal at $113 each.
Still I shopped around a bit and slickdeals led me to simpletire.com, no affiliation. They had them for much less at $96 each but then they start throwing discounts at you... a Yokohama instant rebate of $100 when you buy 4 tires and a $25 code when you set up a login with them, which I was doing anyway. All in it came $275 shipped free to me for 4 pretty decent tires. I bought the set of SS595's from them back in 2018 and there were no surprises. I hope this helps if you're looking for some decent tires. Once I get it all mounted up I'll share photos. I'm hoping the snow holds off here in the Northeast so I can try them out.
driveshaft sometimes hits the e brake cable bracket. the car was rebuilt from a firey wreck before I bought it in 1990. Now I'm trying coil spring spacers for the rear axle. They were easy to put in.
I don't understand why messing with a 37 lb hydraulic jack kills my back.
A driveshaft shop said I cannot use a smaller driveshaft diameter because of the high RPM's that the rx-7 has.
"Got it together over the weekend. Not sure when it's going in the car, maybe with the new engine. New bearings, synchros, and forks. I've had my 7 since 2005 and the two transmissions I've used had a bad synchro in 3rd or 2nd gear, can't wait to drive this one."
J tso, Where did you get your parts? I plan on rebuilding mine soon.
I used this kit, there's another one for gearboxes that use a different front countershaft bearing so order after the gearbox is disassembled and measured.
It only came with the lower gasket in the picture which doesn't quite match the RX-7 transmission, Atkins sells the correct one though.
I got c-clips and snap rings from McMaster-Carr, 16, 20, 25, 30mm sizes are needed.
Shims and new forks I got through the dealer, Ray Crowe in this case.
I didn't do anything but a friend was able to patch the notorious hatch spot weld rust. They've been bubbling up since I bought the car in 2005, I bondo'ed them 10 years ago, but now it's getting fixed right for the next paint job.
