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Are they brighter than the other ones to justify the extra coin in cost?
One of the main reason I bought them was for projecting correctly and producing a brighter tone, I guess I could have bought a cheaper brand but every time I saw something I like it was way expensive lol, like jw speaker brand morimoto and so on, so at the end I chose not by price but for looks, as pee the brightness I will have to get back to you on that, tonight will be the first time trying them.
Picked up seven number 4. Spark yellow 4 speed with brown two tone guts. Waffles and other aftermarket wheels. 78k miles. All original but the muffler. Runs and drives but needs attention. Currently waiting on rotors to hit, got a dead strut to change and new ceramic pads to install . Keeping it 79 for now. Have an 85 gs for parts to update brakes and rear end. Buffing , no, grinding down the orange peel paint finish to unlock a nice finish.
Last edited by garagemahal76; Mar 12, 2021 at 09:10 PM.
Not what I did today, but what I did on mar 13, 1990 Thirty-one years ago to the date, I bought the rx-7 for $3600. It was the most faded car on the lot. Car saleman said, "but sir, we have another rx-7 with a brand new paint job". A car with faded paint means that it has held together for a long time. At a different used car dealer, the cat converter had bailing wire instead of rubber donuts holding it up. I ran.
Day after I bought it, the used car lot owner calls me and says I could buy a Corolla for $1200. He like cut the price in 1/2.
The car changed my life. I was riding the city bus +3 hours one way and 2 hours back going to a 3rd shift 6 1/2 hour job. The night time bus came from the county jail, and had all the just released jail birds on it. It went through Watts, past Florence and Normandy where the 1992 L A riots started. When the 2nd shift supervisor found out that I wasn't ridin the bus anymore, he offered me a 2nd shift position. A month later I moved to be closer to work, and within walking distance to the beach ! !
This has been the winter of 7 for me. Nowhere to go, nobody to visit, car parked for the winter. So over the past few months I've:
Swapped an 81/82 flywheel onto my 1979(ish) engine
Put in a new clutch and pressure plate
Replaced the broken shifter return spring and replaced a torn shifter boot
Adjusted the clutch height and free play
Flattened the exhaust flanges that were leaking and installed new gaskets
Soaked the underbody in Fluid Film to try to prevent new rust
Reset the front wheel bearing preload (one was a little loose, the other a little tight after wearing in)
Adjusted the doors
Fixed some cracked interior plastics (dash and center console)
Restabbed the speedometer needle so it no longer reads 10 km/h high at all times
Hard wired in a dash camera
Fixed some peeling edges of the headliner (thanks windshield installer for your heavy-handed use of sealant...not)
Fixed my poorly functioning rear window defroster
Removed, cleaned up, derusted, repainted and regreased the seat rails
Fixed my intermittently working fuel door release solenoid
Coated the rust behind my bins in rust converter, painted them with rust-proofing primer, and liberally applied fluid film to the exterior portion to slow down the rust's spread until I can get around to cutting it out and welding in new metal
Cleaned up the grounds and connections to my starter (I never knew it could turn so fast!)
Retorqued my oil pan bolts which were barely even snug for some reason
Fixed-ish my smuggler bin hinges
Derusted, cleaned up and primed where the hood hinges and hood attach (rust seems to love that area)
Continuing on with my restoration of my 1985 RX7 GSL-SE I did the following.
Replaced burned out light bulbs in the HVAC logicon so when a button is selected the light above it lights. Mazda had 9 available left in inventory in North America. Bought 5 of them. The bases on the new lights did not fit for some reason but removed the new lights from the new base and installed the new lights into the old base.
Replaced the the burned out back lighting to the rear defroster and hazard switches that flank each side of the instrument pod. Since Mazda does not make replacement bulbs and wants you to buy a whole new switch that is no longer available this repair involved removing the light located on the right side of the switch cluster and removing the existing burned out back light from the light base. Then I replaced the burned out light with a #2174 wire base terminal light and reinstalled the bulb. Easy process.
Sent out the clock to get repaired. The clock was missing digits on the right side of the display. I tried to fix the clock by disassembling the clock and cleaning the clock display contacts but this did not fix the problem. Found a company called autoclockrepair.com that will fix the clock for 35 bucks and give a lifetime warranty. Currently waiting for the clock to come back.
Fixed my headlight combo switch. A few days ago I found that I couldn't flash the high beams, but could switch to them. After contact cleaner spray didn't work I had to take the switch completely apart and found a bit of plastic broke off and was jammed between the contacts.
Just finished wiring my headlights through relays and did it in a way that's 100% reversible. The relays are triggered through the driver's side headlight plug. If the relays fail or the wiring is problematic, I can just plug the original wiring right back in.
I drove my SA ~1000 mile round trip from NC to FL to visit my sister and parents. Cruised at 80 mph most of the way and got 24 mpg. No issues and no excitement (interstates the entire trip).
Gotta love a 40+ year old car that can make ~1000 mile trip with zero issues.
I had to go through that a few weeks ago. The exterior sidemarker and front turn signal sockets are decaying and the terminals are corroding.
And I don't think I've actually had one of those bulbs burn out, owned the car since 2005.
I had to go through that a few weeks ago. The exterior sidemarker and front turn signal sockets are decaying and the terminals are corroding.
And I don't think I've actually had one of those bulbs burn out, owned the car since 2005.
I upgraded the sockets on the factory sidemarkers and installed new plugs and cables and added new #194 leds because the rubber and the bulb terminals were falling appart.
Then I found someone 3d printing and selling them an I ordered a set of the side marker rubber bases and sockets...They are 3d printed and look awesome.
.....Then I found someone 3d printing and selling them an I ordered a set of the side marker rubber bases and sockets...They are 3d printed and look awesome.
He makes them for SA and FB...
Those look great Raven! Who is making those bases?
I spent the weekend shaping aluminum (and taking care of pets and kids). But on to the aluminum....
My stock 12A water pump and WP housing are both iron. For the new 13B I got an aluminum S4 housing and aluminum S3 impeller/WP. Weight savings of 16-17 lb off the front of the engine (22.5 vs 6). I ground down the casting seams, pulled the tube from the back (S4 intake heating?) And tapped that hole to 12mm x 1.50 (same as the temp sensor hole next to it). Ordered two 12 x 1.5 brass plugs and will install when they arrive.
I also ground out the bolt surround inside the small end of the housing passage so it matches the S3 front cover and WP. I know this messes it up for S4 guys, but I hate FC's so I don't care. Scrubbed it up and mock-fitted it in place.
That was the warm-up on Sat. Today I worked my new Weber intake and I'm pretty proud of it....
I'm putting a Weber IDA on the build so needed a new manifold. I have a RB Holley intake and a RB DCOE intake so I got a RB IDA manifold...
But as you can see, it's real clunky looking. The reverse-mounted Aussie-made ones look much better...
But they're set up for RHD cars and I already have the linkage and cable brackets, so..
Let's clean up that brick RB sent me...
Drill some holes, grind some aluminum, file file file....
Not quite as pretty as the RaceCast/Simply Maz ones, but I'm happy. I found a metal polishing place about 10 minutes from my house. They take sand-cast aluminum intakes and make them shine like chrome for the muscle car guys. I'm thinking about taking the intake and WP housing to them.
Last edited by Maxwedge; Mar 28, 2021 at 08:11 PM.
