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Picked up a 5 letter parts car to upgrade my base '81. I finally get a limited slip and better wheel choices! Plus the bits needed for an eventual 13B swap.
On the way to work today, I stalled out on a hill that has a four-way stop on it. Embarrassing myself quite completely. It's the second day I've owned the car and the first time I've attempt to resume speed on an incline. Driven manuals plenty before so I'm figuring that I just need to better understand where the clutch bite point is.
Also, I'm noticing that there is a slight gap of responsiveness when I let off the clutch and power is transferred back to the trans. Any clue as to what I can do to reduce the "stall?"
Engine off,remove air cleaner. While watching primary venturies,use throttle linkage at carburetor and open throttle to open 1/2 open.
You should see a steady stream of fuel squirting into each primary venturi .
When the throttle is opened,like when you’re starting off from a stop,the carburetor mixture goes lean momentarily. The carburetor has an accelerator pump that squirts fuel into engine to compensate for this. It makes the engine more responsive.
If you don’t have this steady stream of gas or what you have is just a dribble,you get the symptoms you have.
Often the diaphragm in accelerator pump splits or tears from age. This is not uncommon if the car was not driven regularly for some time and now is as it’s your DD.
If there are no other driveability issues and car starts and idles ok,it is possible to buy a carburetor repair kit and use the new pump diaphragm from the kit to replace your damaged one and get car back on the road if time is an issue. Otherwise a full removal,disassembly and cleaning of carburetor is recommended.
I loved my TA's back in the day. Dunlop GT Qualifiers too. Just like Doc Marten soles, they grip when you need and slip when you want. Nowadays the TA's are considered "hard" and "classic restoration" grade, but I say -- SA/FB's Are classic cars, so why not use period correct performance tires?
Today I was attempting to replace the rotors on my SA. I encountered this large nut that i'll need a 12 point socket for. I was curious if anyone knows the size i need. I am guessing it is somewhere between 19mm - 21mm
That isn't a nut, that's a castellated locking thingy. (Maybe not the term Mazda uses) Once you remove the cotter pin, that comes off of the actual nut. It's shaped that way so you can lock the spindle nut in many different orientations.
If you need a socket to move the spindle nut, something is very very wrong. It's supposed to be just barely finger tight, and then back it off just enough to be able to put the cotter pin in one of the slots. If you tighten that nut down, it will smoke the bearings very quickly. Which is why it uses a cotter pin to keep it from turning, and it has the separate castellated locking thingy so you can get it adjusted just right.
That isn't a nut, that's a castellated locking thingy. (Maybe not the term Mazda uses) Once you remove the cotter pin, that comes off of the actual nut. It's shaped that way so you can lock the spindle nut in many different orientations.
If you need a socket to move the spindle nut, something is very very wrong. It's supposed to be just barely finger tight, and then back it off just enough to be able to put the cotter pin in one of the slots. If you tighten that nut down, it will smoke the bearings very quickly. Which is why it uses a cotter pin to keep it from turning, and it has the separate castellated locking thingy so you can get it adjusted just right.
Interesting, I will try that out. Any other info I need to know moving forward from this point on? Will the rotor just slide off after I remove the nut? Everything else with the assembly seems to be in good shape as the car has been somewhat well maintained.
The rotor looks like the brakes could use some maintenance,lol...
Yes,remove cotter pin,loosen and remove nut. Behind nut is a large washer. You can put your thumbs on washer and pull rotor straight off. Outer wheel bearing can be plucked off and washer slid off and put with nut,cotter pin adjuster plate and grease cap for safekeeping.
On backside of rotor is a grease seal that keeps inner bearing grease inside cavity in rotor. This can be pried out to remove inner wheel bearing.
Are you reusing inner and outer bearing? They can be eased in a parts washer and inspected for wear,discoloration,pitting. Any evidence of these conditions all bearings should be replaced.
Does replacement rotor come with wheel bearing races installed? If not and you are reusing bearing,clean out grease to enable you to see ledge cast in rotor from behind outer bearing. You will see across from each other,the casting is cut back a bit allowing you to use a drift pin and hammer to walk race out of hub of rotor. Do so alternating sides so as not to distort race. Flip rotor over and do same for inner bearing race.
Recommend doing this over piece of wood so when bearing race pops free it is not damaged.
A bearing race/seal driver kit allows you to drive race squarely into new rotor. You will know by the sound when it is seated. This tool can be rented from many parts stores.
Know that before you start, you're going to want to have replacement COTTER PINS of the correct size on hand to get it all back together correctly. Also, if you're not practiced at setting pre-load of the new bearings, you're going to need a hand scale capable of reading 0-10+Lbs of force. Also, a hefty amount of wheel bearing grease for the new bearings,...
Point being, if you don't recognize the cotter pin and castellated nut in your first post, this may not be the right project for you right now, and you need a few parts on hand before you dig into it. Like new bearings and races...
Getting this wrong risks losing a front wheel at speed. Put a new Post out on the 1st Gen forum with a new title, and we'll sort it out,
Last edited by LongDuck; Sep 15, 2019 at 02:39 PM.
? Sure looks good.
