j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i had that combo in like 1997, its fun! err wait, it was a street port exhaust, and light flywheel on a stock 12A, but still fun! it makes a really balanced car...

i used to go nuts on stuff too, but since we've gone racing, not so much. S*@t happens road racing, so making it too nice isn't a good idea, shoot even going off track puts a layer of dirt on everything. i still like to lay everything out nicely, and its functionally good, but the cosmetics i usually take a B, or a C...

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Wow, you hit the nail right on the head there Jeff. I bought way too many parts this winter for my 7 and I only have about half of them installed. Now that I have them, and have them ready to be installed, I've lost the gumption to actually get around to it. I need that extra push to get it done - constantly. The push for me is driving it, so I've been driving it every time I need to work on it to make sure I can strive towards the end goal of being done

Also guys, thanks for the warning about the BD door seals, I'm in serious need of some too. I should take pictures for everybody, they barely even exist in the top corners of the door. I can't wait till I can get through a car wash without taking a shower (only happened once), or coming to sit and not getting my butt and arm all wet from the water that dripped in the night before.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, probably the most balanced 1st gen I ever drove was Percent's white '83 the summer of '07. It had a 74 ported 12A with 83-85 rotating assembly, stripped Nikki, light steel flywheel (and stock disc + PP), full RB streetport exhaust. It was really well balanced. The only part that left wanting was a partial lack of low end torque below 1800 due to 74 size ports, but get it above 3800 and punch it (mech secondaries) it would take off like it had a Camden. Also the tranny had a notchy 3rd and the motor mounts and tranny mount were all stock and really squishy (the trans mount had sagged making shifts less precise feeling).

My FB has hocky puck motor mounts and a new stock tranny mount; I could spring for a competition trans mount but that's my ego again.

I will control myself on this build. I'd like to recreate what I had in Percent's car, and only address the few shortcomings it had. I've got the parts for it. But the urge to go overboard is so strong. I mean the opportunity is there so why not go nuts? Well I'd just be reliving past short lived setups in various FBs I've done over the years. I want this build to be special. No wait, let's drop the "want" paradigm. I CHOOSE to build something special; something to look forward to every day.

This car has always had less than stellar setups; either a derpy tranny or an engine which lacked low end torque, or a Camden that couldn't breath through a tiny exhaust, or a loud headache inducing exhaust that made you cringe, or a really heavy pressure plate on an engine that didn't make enough power to warrant one. You know, stuff like that. Rookie mistakes I guess. (am I still a rookie? Well on 1st gens a few years ago, yes I kinda still was but hopefully not anymore). This car has also never had DLIDFIS so I get to look forward to that.

Oh man the urge is so strong to build something way out there. No I gotta control myself. Frickin stock ports. Really? No smoothing? No casting flash removal? No cleanup of any kind? The stock ports have nasty sharp edges that don't seem to help turbulence as much as you might think. But maybe only at low RPM, like at cranking speeds. Heck I've built 74 ported motors that started in less than a crank with all the casting flash cleanup I usually do, so that's moot.

Sigh... ok some port cleanup. SOME, ok? Don't get crazy with it.

What about an intake? I've got a small Hitachi with a 20mm primary venturi. These small Hitachis probably came from NO intermediate R5 13Bs from J-spec Luces or something (Divin, you need to look for one of these engines). These carbs don't like high RPM. But I do have a fairly decent 13B reverse runner manifold with a Nikki stud pattern added. WackyRacer knows what I'm talking about. I know he doesn't care for the Nikki but I have a spare that could be put to use instead of the dodgy slow Hitachi. The Nikki flows better at high RPM than any Hitachi I've ever used. Plus it came from a cat system where the Hitachi came from a TR system, so the idle of a Nikki won't make your eyes burn, plus it gets better mileage. Oh another big plus is the FB came stock with a Nikki so all the cables are already set up for it. Well, the throttle and choke cables anyway. No hot start assist for me. But a Hitachi still works fine with its choke cable holder thingie, and the throttle is the same length.

Ok I'll start with a Hitachi since it doesn't require any special engineering other than a fuel line reroute, but I've got a big Carter pump and a Holley FPR 4.9 to 9psi so it's getting rerouted anyway. Also a Malpassi for low pressures when I'm ready.

Scrap that. Start with a Nikki so there's less fuel line work to do now and later. Hmm I don't know. I guess whichever speaks to me once the engine is in.

Also contemplating the exhaust. The RB streetport requires next to no work to get it in, but I was kinda saving it for the 20B (adding a 3rd presilencer is fairly easy up in the cat location if you don't have a heat shield!). I could grab a 13B collected header from the pile but that leaves me with a 2" collector. I'm a big believer in 2.5" on a 13B now. Man not even 12As should suffer a 2" system these days. RB was kinda wrong in recommending 2" on all 1st gens unless you get their "streetport" system, which uses a 2.375" inlet into the powerpulse muffler way in the back. It's ok way back there where the gasses have cooled and contracted a bit, and the ID is 2.25" same as their thickwall 2.5" (.120" or 1/8" wall gives a 2.25" ID). 2" thickwall is ok as a primary pipe where it only handles one rotor's flow, but is too small for two rotors. For a 12A, maybe 2.25" OD thickwall if you can find it, and for a 13B go 2.5" thickwall (I'm talking stockport to streetport here so you bridge and PP guys already know what you need). There's no way I'm using up my 2.5" components in the FB as they're already spoken for on a mild streetported 13B in something else with an RB Holley. That's where I went a little nuts. No need for it here in the FB.

So maybe for the exhaust I'll pick the system that makes the most sense and is the easiest to get in there so I'm not having to spend time fabbing up an exhaust system when the other car with the Holley still needs a full exhaust from header collector to tail pipe. Also the 20B already has a 90% done 3" system with extra steel wrapped on the thinwall components to be used NA. They say the 3 rotor runs quieter than a 2 rotor, but it's been streetported with T2 sleeves so who knows at this point. At least it shouldn't drone now, plus I can add a peejay style restrictor in the tail pipe if needed. And then it's still compatible with a turbo if I decide I need more power later. Scary thought. The long primary obviously isn't future-compatible like the 3" is.

This also frees up the 3rd presilencer for an REPU that really needs a long primary. Otherwise this presilencer would have gone in the FB as a single 2" system with probably a Borla out the back which is a combo I already tried in this very car a few years ago and really detested it ie no low end, no high end. Just midrange yuck sounding. lol

No matter how many times I consider my options, this keeps making the most sense even if I don't really "want" to do it. I want a long primary on the 20B because I know it's awesome on a rotary and I was so looking forward to the ambitious one of a kind fabrication challenge. But I also want a long primary in the FB because I know it's perfect (and the new center sections are really light weight!). I also want a long primary in the REPU because I know the low end torque is totally worth the cost and fab work involved. You don't even notice the partial weight penalty in a vehicle this heavy. Plus it's located really low. I can probably lighten the presilencers up a bit too as the PO welded the 2" flanges on. Just chop off the 3/8" thick round end caps and start over. It's not like they require flanges the way they're getting installed, you know?

So that's what I did to my FB today. I thought about it A LOT and decided to lay it all out for you guys. Not that you will read any of it.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

I posted pix of my TR, and fixed the driver's window switch on the wife's Buick - - which builds up spouse faction for the next round of parts buys, so it is actually "something done for my SA."

cyipher

iTrader: (1)

Today....

I figured out that a headlight ballast for my hids is bad and it wasnt the bulb, Untill I can get another one i put some cheapy halogen bulbs in. I replaced my belt harnesses with current SFI 16.1 Units, Re wired my nitrous relay base to a differnt style.

All I have left is to install my wipers (aftermarket) and change my converter.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Pulled the disgusting original factory installed rad and panels in preparation for the new aluminum rad. Sadly I think I should have ordered the short version since my angled mounting plan just isn't going to work with the tall rad. It hits too many things. Although with the short one my e-fan won't fit as it just fits nicely on the tall. Problem I'm going to run into is the tall aluminum rad is considerably thicker than the old one and with the stocker the fan sat millimeters away from the water pump pulley. Maybe I'll have to make some custom mounting panels to offset it to one side or the other so everything plays nicely. Last night I cleaned most of the old paint off the bigass center hex nuts for the BBS RS. Now I just gotta get my *** in gear and get them wet sanded and polished. After this I can honestly say you couldn't pay me to do this refurbishing work. I'd do it again for myself and maybe a good friend, but that's it. It's quite tedious and exhausting. I've reached a point where the results are showing, but it pains me to actually get off my *** and do more. STILL WAITING ON COLOR SAMPLES TOO!!!! I'm like this buying a chocolate bar too. Just can't make up my mind.

Kentetsu

Chris, did you remove the "extra" pulleys from the front of the motor? You can remove the unneeded ones, and reinstall the pulley using oil pan bolts. That should give you another inch or so of clearance if I recall correctly...

If I ever got a spare minute, I'd already have a definite answer for you. Hoping to start my install this weekend, if I can't get started sooner.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

The extra front pulley has been removed. It's just the one to drive the water pump now. Still very little clearance. Remember I'm 13B now, so I lost a bit of space compared to the 12A. Might have to either sell the rad I got and get the shorty or find another fan. Either choice makes me cringe since they both cost me money and I'm likely to lose money on either decision. I'd like to mount the fan in front for both a little more knuckle room and to tidy things up but the damn sway bar is in the way. Can't do the angle mount because the steering rack is in the way. BAH!! I guess if it was easy it wouldn't be as much fun.

k3mo2992

did my first clutch master and slave fix today (28th), car drives better now, lots of muttering and cursing, followed by abusing my clutch, no more hydraulic failure for me!

Kentetsu

Chris,

Do you have the 2 row model, or the 3 row? If you have the 2 row, I might run into problems too, since I went with the 3 row...

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

I installed a new "rebuildable" driveshaft and while I was under there I put in new rear lower control arms to replace the slightly bent ones that have been under there for years.

The drive shaft got rid of a very subtle high speed vibration that was so slight that I was not sure that it even existed (until I tried out the new one). My car is smooth as silk now, even at 100+ mph!!!!Woo Hoo!!!

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

"tested" the brakes! came hauling *** around a corner (safely hauling ***) to find a limb taking up the whole right lane. row of traffic in the left lane, ditch on the other side... down shift and slam on the brakes, stopped with a few feet to spare im used to driving my truck, i still wouldn't be stopped! hahaha!

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Mine's the two row version. Still have to do some playing when it warms up again to see what I can do about making everything fit. I hate when my ideas get ruined by reality.

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

I have a three row with a 13b. It was tight, but it fit. The major problem was with my ReSpeed steering rack. I had to mod the lower outlet for it to fit.

NCTROOPER

Changed Rotor cap and button, spark plug wires and both coils. Blew out fuel return check valve and bought new belts. Belts go on tomorrow and will buy a carb kit since i'm having bogging down problems.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I bought the 3 row Champion aluminum rad for Christmas and just started to install mine. I've already run into issues. It sits further back and I'm not sure if the factory fan will work. Plus, it is a little too wide frame to frame. It touches the battery shelf and will need to be trimed. I really don't want to go electric fan but I might have to unless I spend more money and buy a factory rad.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Fitting the rad itself in the stock position won't be a problem. It's the fan that is giving me issues. If I put the rad in the stock mounting location the fan motor will hit the front pulley. If I put it on the front it hits the sway bar.

I also wanted to angle mount the rad so I could one day cut a big hole in my rust free hood and put ductwork in to vent the air. Highspeed front end lift has always bothered me as well as the engine bay could use all the help it can get getting the hot air out.

Kentetsu, check your FB messages. I sent ya one re: our radiator issues.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

(on-topic) I monkeyed about a bit with my Thermal Reactor question, ID'd some bolts for replacement, & pondered what finish to use on my heat sheild.

wesmcbride

iTrader: (2)

Don't know if this is common:
While reassembling the engine, I was on the rear rotor putting in the 3rd apex seal when one of the other apex triangles popped off. Cleaned a solid 15' radius around the engine and it was nowhere to be found. I thought to myself "Did it happen to fall down a housing passage?" So I began to disassemble the engine. When I got to the front iron I flipped it over and sure enough it fell out. Now I am taking a break (venting) after assembling everything back up to the rear iron.

Kentetsu

Chris,

If your 2 row won't fit, how do you figure my 3 row might fix that for you?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

orion84gsl/Kentetsu Get a fan and spacer from an 81-83. Or if you guys are both using the 84-85 fan, get an early spacer and mod it (slot the outer holes) so it can work on your 84-85 fan. I messed around with the GLC's clutch fan until I found the right combination of parts. 86-88 plastic fan, 81-82 clutch, short stamped steel spacer. It's good to have a pile of parts.

Oh, another possible idea is a GSL-SE spacer which should be shorter by 20mm and the bigger hole pattern for 84-85 fans. This is speculation as I don't have a GSL-SE with a stock setup nearby to look at.

wesmcbride, that's why I went to super glue/crazy glue. Works every time.

cyipher

iTrader: (1)

Took all my wheels off to have them rebalanced, and tightened my wheel beaings.

Trying to find this viberation is pissing me off...

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Kentetsu: Because it's shorter I in theory should be able to mount it at an angle like the FC rads are mounted which will allow me to put the fan in front since it won't be as close to the sway bar. The problem I'm having is that to get mine to mount that way with the steering rack where it is means the top protrudes into the hood space. Its about 6 inches too tall. Thats why I need the dimensions so I can mock up a cardboard one to test fit to see if I'm right about it being a better fit.

Jeff: We are both using electric fans. Couldn't even tell you where my clutch fan is at this point.

83Limited

Today I made 2 wooden jigs to mount my bumpers on so they are in the correct position for painting...hopefully all my metallics lay the same way, thats the risk with painting a car apart....

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

orion84gsl: D'oh! Plus one for reading comprehension skills. I need a small Derpy emoticon.

What did I do to my FB today? I thought about going blow through turbo in it. In the blue S model with a 13B. I really don't want my first foray into turbos on the 20B. Too much risk. But in blue car, no problem. If it pops, no prob. I also have a nice remote fuel pressure gauge and a boost gauge to throw in. A complete 3" exhaust just sits there and waits for me to make up my mind. The only part I'd need to buy, other than an intercooler, is an EFI fuel pump and some 5/16" hardline. Thinking about grabbing a Walbro off eBay. Maybe look at some FMICs too but they're not mandatory to get it up and running. A pretty cheap option compared to the other stuff I was considering.

Hey guys, should I go turbo in the blue car? PercentSevenC was saying a turbo 1st gen is a lot of fun. I could build this on the side and spend next to no money on it.

Don't be jealous; it's just the parts are here already and/or will be available this summer. Should I set these plans in stone?