What did you do to your FB today?
Took the manifold in to have it repaired. $80 was the estimate. Ouch. I already paid $70 to have the ACV inlet blocked off (which it turns out I didnt need) and $70 for ceramic coating (which will now be destroyed on the inner side of the manifold). PO said this was an S5 block - but that center plate only has a large round indendation (like the one next to the base of the oil filler neck) - and no ACV port..... odd... and a waste of $70.
Oh well I dont care any more I just want to get it installed. I do need to figure out what concoction this engine is, though, before I start special ordering parts for it and find out they're mismatch.
When I sent the manifold in to be coated - i said very specifically to block off all hoses, inlets, holes, bolts, etc. They failed to do so on 50% of them (the ones that mattered).
Jeff- the ceramic coating is to prevent heat soak from the engine and exhaust manifold. I had the gasket surfaces coated to reduce heat soak from component to component.
It's a tight squeeze under those 6 port manifolds, so nobody makes heat shields for them. So, either wrap it or ceramic! I chose ceramic for longevity and aesthetic.
Che's - the LIM is an S5 and requires the S5 VDI and Dynamic Chamber, but will bolt up to an -SE block. It may become available down the road - using it for now.
Oh well I dont care any more I just want to get it installed. I do need to figure out what concoction this engine is, though, before I start special ordering parts for it and find out they're mismatch.
When I sent the manifold in to be coated - i said very specifically to block off all hoses, inlets, holes, bolts, etc. They failed to do so on 50% of them (the ones that mattered).
Jeff- the ceramic coating is to prevent heat soak from the engine and exhaust manifold. I had the gasket surfaces coated to reduce heat soak from component to component.
It's a tight squeeze under those 6 port manifolds, so nobody makes heat shields for them. So, either wrap it or ceramic! I chose ceramic for longevity and aesthetic.
Che's - the LIM is an S5 and requires the S5 VDI and Dynamic Chamber, but will bolt up to an -SE block. It may become available down the road - using it for now.
ioTus- Oh, ok. I just suggested quicksteel to fill the ACV ports if they aren't needed on an S5 manifold to reduce heat as well.
Speaking of which, the 6 port I'm pulling out of the white REPU hasn't had them filled yet so I'll be doing that pretty soon. Then I'll see about going EFI on it instead of the current carb setup which drips fuel from the accel pump (old Nikki).
And to reduce exhaust heat the cheap way, I'll do a heat shield made from SS sheet.
Speaking of which, the 6 port I'm pulling out of the white REPU hasn't had them filled yet so I'll be doing that pretty soon. Then I'll see about going EFI on it instead of the current carb setup which drips fuel from the accel pump (old Nikki).
And to reduce exhaust heat the cheap way, I'll do a heat shield made from SS sheet.
The one on Commercial. The diff and rear brakes are gone. I think the front spindles are there though. There are shocks in the front and rear. Rear are white...maybe Illuminas? Not sure what's in the front as they're cartridges. The springs look stock. The interior is filled with crap from other cars...I fkin hate the PnP on Commercial...people are always ruining interiors by piling crap in the cars.
The engine is intact, minus the upper intake manifold. No idea on mileage as the speedo is gone. Factory exhaust looks to be in very nice condition. Stereo is gone as well. Seats are there, but in so-so condition. Rear plastics might be in good condition, but with all the crap in the car it's hard to tell. If I'd had tools, I'd have investigated further.
fm
The engine is intact, minus the upper intake manifold. No idea on mileage as the speedo is gone. Factory exhaust looks to be in very nice condition. Stereo is gone as well. Seats are there, but in so-so condition. Rear plastics might be in good condition, but with all the crap in the car it's hard to tell. If I'd had tools, I'd have investigated further.
fm
Clear-coated the rear bumper today. Orange peel city, but what can you expect from clear coat in a can? I'm going to mount the bumper back on the car and then let it cure for a day or two before I start color sanding it.
fm
fm
Full Blown 1.1
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
Sadly I started realizing that although my whole car body is rust free, someone dropped the car off a jack and ruined the rocker panel. (Looks like crap) I'm going to repaint the car Raw metal/Clear Black or Clear red so you still see metal underneath the paint. Today I got back from pulling another spare GSL rear end.
My Edlebrock percolated in traffic a few weeks ago. Haven't had a chirp out of it since I put a piece of sheet metal between the two.
I'm going to let the clear coat cure for the next couple of days, so while I'm waiting, I'll do a few other things. Today, I got these beauties in the mail, courtesy of Motorsport Tech:
These are 11mm hub and wheel-centric spacers specifically machined to fit my front hubs and my Volk TE-37s. Turn-around time was 2 weeks...and they arrived just in time for auto-x this weekend.
I just pulled off the crappy universal pot-metal spacers and tossed them in the bin. These things fit the wheels and the hubs perfectly. To say I'm pleased with this purchase is an understatement!
fm
These are 11mm hub and wheel-centric spacers specifically machined to fit my front hubs and my Volk TE-37s. Turn-around time was 2 weeks...and they arrived just in time for auto-x this weekend.
I just pulled off the crappy universal pot-metal spacers and tossed them in the bin. These things fit the wheels and the hubs perfectly. To say I'm pleased with this purchase is an understatement!
fm
Originally Posted by Qingdao
With the carb directly above the exhaust; the heat sheild makes a world of difference.
My Edlebrock percolated in traffic a few weeks ago. Haven't had a chirp out of it since I put a piece of sheet metal between the two.
My Edlebrock percolated in traffic a few weeks ago. Haven't had a chirp out of it since I put a piece of sheet metal between the two.
As for me I just test ran two Holleys in the brown car today. The first was a boost prepped 650 dp from FCnWV (I think is his user name). It had leaks from both accel pumps and one of the fuel inlets started leaking so I stopped the test. But it did run! The accel pumps were nice and crisp. I might use this carb in a future turbo setup, but I have yet to try boost prepping a Nikki, so we'll see.
The other holley is a 600 cfm from RB. This one has a lazy accel pump. The manual choke is something of a joke (I might mod it to work better). It otherwise runs and has no fuel leaks.
Late last night, I put the refinished rear bumper on the car. It still needs color sanding and buffing, but I figured it'll be a lot easier to do that when it's on the car. I'm very pleased with how it turned out, even with the orange peel.
This morning, I tried checking my engine mounts to see if they were bad. I've been told to use a pry bar, but I can't see where I can get one in to wedge anything effectively. Upon visual inspection, I can't see any cracks or separation. The engine rocks a little when hitting the accelerator, but all engines do that. I'm almost certain the rear transmission mount is bad and am planning on replacing it when I swap trannys in a couple of weeks.
fm
This morning, I tried checking my engine mounts to see if they were bad. I've been told to use a pry bar, but I can't see where I can get one in to wedge anything effectively. Upon visual inspection, I can't see any cracks or separation. The engine rocks a little when hitting the accelerator, but all engines do that. I'm almost certain the rear transmission mount is bad and am planning on replacing it when I swap trannys in a couple of weeks.
fm
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,816
Likes: 3,219
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Late last night, I put the refinished rear bumper on the car. It still needs color sanding and buffing, but I figured it'll be a lot easier to do that when it's on the car. I'm very pleased with how it turned out, even with the orange peel.
This morning, I tried checking my engine mounts to see if they were bad. I've been told to use a pry bar, but I can't see where I can get one in to wedge anything effectively. Upon visual inspection, I can't see any cracks or separation. The engine rocks a little when hitting the accelerator, but all engines do that. I'm almost certain the rear transmission mount is bad and am planning on replacing it when I swap trannys in a couple of weeks.
fm
This morning, I tried checking my engine mounts to see if they were bad. I've been told to use a pry bar, but I can't see where I can get one in to wedge anything effectively. Upon visual inspection, I can't see any cracks or separation. The engine rocks a little when hitting the accelerator, but all engines do that. I'm almost certain the rear transmission mount is bad and am planning on replacing it when I swap trannys in a couple of weeks.
fm
engine mounts are usually ok, they occasionally separate, so somehow you need to see if the rubber is still attached to the metal bit.
Late last night, I put the refinished rear bumper on the car. It still needs color sanding and buffing, but I figured it'll be a lot easier to do that when it's on the car. I'm very pleased with how it turned out, even with the orange peel.
This morning, I tried checking my engine mounts to see if they were bad. I've been told to use a pry bar, but I can't see where I can get one in to wedge anything effectively. Upon visual inspection, I can't see any cracks or separation. The engine rocks a little when hitting the accelerator, but all engines do that. I'm almost certain the rear transmission mount is bad and am planning on replacing it when I swap trannys in a couple of weeks.
fm
This morning, I tried checking my engine mounts to see if they were bad. I've been told to use a pry bar, but I can't see where I can get one in to wedge anything effectively. Upon visual inspection, I can't see any cracks or separation. The engine rocks a little when hitting the accelerator, but all engines do that. I'm almost certain the rear transmission mount is bad and am planning on replacing it when I swap trannys in a couple of weeks.
fm
Be cool to meet up with another local rotorhead!
This is my first fb. Ive had 4 fc's over the years.
Ready or not...
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Taos, NM
there are 3 manifold holes that are covered when the rats nest is removed and all the hoses are re-reouted.
Mazdatrix and RB carry them at about $14 ea... plus shipping.
The rats nest removal tutorial mentions 2 of them... the 3rd is Cali specific! I guess I just figure that one out.
A 6"x12" piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet is on the parts list to fab your own. It has proven quite elusive in my little town. The pre-cut pieces are starting to look like a value compared to the hunt.
Mazdatrix and RB carry them at about $14 ea... plus shipping.
The rats nest removal tutorial mentions 2 of them... the 3rd is Cali specific! I guess I just figure that one out.
A 6"x12" piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet is on the parts list to fab your own. It has proven quite elusive in my little town. The pre-cut pieces are starting to look like a value compared to the hunt.
there are 3 manifold holes that are covered when the rats nest is removed and all the hoses are re-reouted.
Mazdatrix and RB carry them at about $14 ea... plus shipping.
The rats nest removal tutorial mentions 2 of them... the 3rd is Cali specific! I guess I just figure that one out.
A 6"x12" piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet is on the parts list to fab your own. It has proven quite elusive in my little town. The pre-cut pieces are starting to look like a value compared to the hunt.
Mazdatrix and RB carry them at about $14 ea... plus shipping.
The rats nest removal tutorial mentions 2 of them... the 3rd is Cali specific! I guess I just figure that one out.
A 6"x12" piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet is on the parts list to fab your own. It has proven quite elusive in my little town. The pre-cut pieces are starting to look like a value compared to the hunt.
fm
Big balla, Mista hot shot!! 50 an hour! I would be generous and say my time is worth a dolla .25 per hour!! Hahaha
Today I looked at it longingly while I got ready for work. So much I need to do to it and so little time/money...but the fb makes a great drinking buddy and my daughter loves to stand on the drivers seat and pretend to drive it ( she is 2 )
fm
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,816
Likes: 3,219
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Ready or not...
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Taos, NM
I just ordered the cover plates from RB. Next weekend... rats nest removal!
Lately I have had more time than $$$. However my equation factors more than the cost. There's a certain satisfaction in making something from raw material. However when the frustration exceeds the satisfaction, it's nice to have reliable sources.
Lately I have had more time than $$$. However my equation factors more than the cost. There's a certain satisfaction in making something from raw material. However when the frustration exceeds the satisfaction, it's nice to have reliable sources.
Last edited by Ms. DIY; Aug 1, 2013 at 09:02 PM.
I just ordered the cover plates from RB. Next weekend... rats nest removal!
Lately I have had more time than $$$. However my equation factors more than the cost. There's a certain satisfaction in making something from raw material. However when the frustration exceeds the satisfaction, it's nice to have reliable sources.
Lately I have had more time than $$$. However my equation factors more than the cost. There's a certain satisfaction in making something from raw material. However when the frustration exceeds the satisfaction, it's nice to have reliable sources.
Light day for me...I put on the front cover and oil pan on my SE engine.
fm
