Sporadic lack of power and ability to rev
05-18-21, 09:01 PM
#1
Sporadic lack of power and ability to rev
Hey guys I've searched many threads now and I'm not making much ground I bought a 82 gsl from the original owner garage kept. It was in storage for 5 years and we got it running by towing it till the seal threw out and it began to ran. We went through and rebuilt the carb because it was dirty and flooding when I bought it. My problem is it runs totally sporadic it at times ran perfect then it would be anemic and not rev out or have any power it seem to be getting worse to where whenever it's under load of trying to drive its just completely anemic. Today we it would even rev out good in neutral then we let it idle for a long time and it rev out good then got worse then by the end of the night it literally die out at 2 grand is essentially un drivable. What are you thoughts anything will help please help me get this barn find back on the road.
05-18-21, 09:22 PM
#3
yes the fuel filter and pump was brand new and we pumped all the old gas out before we started running it and all that old gas still was clean but we replaced it anyway pf course. There's definitely no fuel supply problems because the float bowls remain at a good level.
05-19-21, 05:54 AM
#4
Typically when the engine is cutting out as you describe, a fuel delivery issue is the primary cause. I would inspect the new filter for sediment. The tank can have sediment in it that will require a professional cleaning and sealing to get it back where it needs to be. I would first double check this.
Then move inward to the carb and inspect the fuel level in the front bowl through the sight glass and the same on the rear with an inspection mirror. Ensure the car is parked on a level surface with the engine at idle. Ensure that you have adequate fuel supply at the carb and that the floats are in adjustment spec.
Have you inspected the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Ensure the spark plugs are NGK BR8EQ-14 and that there the cap and rotor have good contacts. Ensure the plug wires are routed correctly.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? This is a big one, especially since the car has been off. Ensure the vacuum lines are secure and routed correctly.
Then move inward to the carb and inspect the fuel level in the front bowl through the sight glass and the same on the rear with an inspection mirror. Ensure the car is parked on a level surface with the engine at idle. Ensure that you have adequate fuel supply at the carb and that the floats are in adjustment spec.
Have you inspected the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Ensure the spark plugs are NGK BR8EQ-14 and that there the cap and rotor have good contacts. Ensure the plug wires are routed correctly.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? This is a big one, especially since the car has been off. Ensure the vacuum lines are secure and routed correctly.
05-19-21, 06:24 AM
#5
Typically when the engine is cutting out as you describe, a fuel delivery issue is the primary cause. I would inspect the new filter for sediment. The tank can have sediment in it that will require a professional cleaning and sealing to get it back where it needs to be. I would first double check this.
Then move inward to the carb and inspect the fuel level in the front bowl through the sight glass and the same on the rear with an inspection mirror. Ensure the car is parked on a level surface with the engine at idle. Ensure that you have adequate fuel supply at the carb and that the floats are in adjustment spec.
Have you inspected the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Ensure the spark plugs are NGK BR8EQ-14 and that there the cap and rotor have good contacts. Ensure the plug wires are routed correctly.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? This is a big one, especially since the car has been off. Ensure the vacuum lines are secure and routed correctly.
Then move inward to the carb and inspect the fuel level in the front bowl through the sight glass and the same on the rear with an inspection mirror. Ensure the car is parked on a level surface with the engine at idle. Ensure that you have adequate fuel supply at the carb and that the floats are in adjustment spec.
Have you inspected the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Ensure the spark plugs are NGK BR8EQ-14 and that there the cap and rotor have good contacts. Ensure the plug wires are routed correctly.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? This is a big one, especially since the car has been off. Ensure the vacuum lines are secure and routed correctly.
05-19-21, 02:15 PM
#6
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Recheck you pump output up at the carb. Make sure the flow and volume are in spec with what the FSM says. Should be about 3 psi, no more and do about 25 gph on the volume. Also watch to see if its a consistent flow.
On the carb rebuild did you use the new needles and seats? If yes put the old ones back in. It sounds like they may be fine based on the float levels. Did you clean out all t he small filters throughout the carb, theres some at the needles, some at the pipe inlets to both of the bowls, maybe some others can't remember now.
Does your return line have the limiter in it on near the carb connection? Is it blocked?
If all this checks out then I would start looking at electrical. First up would be making sure all the grounds are good and clean at all connections.
On the carb rebuild did you use the new needles and seats? If yes put the old ones back in. It sounds like they may be fine based on the float levels. Did you clean out all t he small filters throughout the carb, theres some at the needles, some at the pipe inlets to both of the bowls, maybe some others can't remember now.
Does your return line have the limiter in it on near the carb connection? Is it blocked?
If all this checks out then I would start looking at electrical. First up would be making sure all the grounds are good and clean at all connections.
05-19-21, 02:30 PM
#7
Recheck you pump output up at the carb. Make sure the flow and volume are in spec with what the FSM says. Should be about 3 psi, no more and do about 25 gph on the volume. Also watch to see if its a consistent flow.
On the carb rebuild did you use the new needles and seats? If yes put the old ones back in. It sounds like they may be fine based on the float levels. Did you clean out all t he small filters throughout the carb, theres some at the needles, some at the pipe inlets to both of the bowls, maybe some others can't remember now.
Does your return line have the limiter in it on near the carb connection? Is it blocked?
If all this checks out then I would start looking at electrical. First up would be making sure all the grounds are good and clean at all connections.
On the carb rebuild did you use the new needles and seats? If yes put the old ones back in. It sounds like they may be fine based on the float levels. Did you clean out all t he small filters throughout the carb, theres some at the needles, some at the pipe inlets to both of the bowls, maybe some others can't remember now.
Does your return line have the limiter in it on near the carb connection? Is it blocked?
If all this checks out then I would start looking at electrical. First up would be making sure all the grounds are good and clean at all connections.
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05-29-21, 01:25 PM
#8
Hi guys I have installed a new fuel filter and determined delivery is not the problem based on flow rate and tests I read in other threads so the other day I popped the top of the carb off and hosed put the main jets with carb clean for curiosity and in doing this my left bowl was almost empty and the right was just bellow half full I checked and i know the floats are in spec so whats the thoughts guys.
05-30-21, 10:38 AM
#9
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Hi guys I have installed a new fuel filter and determined delivery is not the problem based on flow rate and tests I read in other threads so the other day I popped the top of the carb off and hosed put the main jets with carb clean for curiosity and in doing this my left bowl was almost empty and the right was just bellow half full I checked and i know the floats are in spec so whats the thoughts guys.
06-03-21, 03:45 PM
#10
A
[QUOTE=mazdaverx713b;12468887]Ty
pically when the engine is cutting out as you describe, a fuel delivery issue is the primary cause. I would inspect the new filter for sediment. The tank can have sediment in it that will require a professional cleaning and sealing to get it back where it needs to be. I would first double check this.
Then move inward to the carb and inspect the fuel level in the front bowl through the sight glass and the same on the rear with an inspection mirror. Ensure the car is parked on a level surface with the engine at idle. Ensure that you have adequate fuel supply at the carb and that the floats are in adjustment spec.
Have you inspected the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Ensure the spark plugs are NGK BR8EQ-14 and that there the cap and rotor have good contacts. Ensure the plug wires are routed correctly.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? This is a big one, especially since the car has been off. Ensure the vacuum lines are secure and routed correctly.[/Q
It's all fixed guys another old rotary brought back to life it was flooding the front rotor and the rear was sticking and no getting any fuel and we wete doing fuel testing ran the carb dry a couple times and all the sudden the needles seated and it run beatiful
pically when the engine is cutting out as you describe, a fuel delivery issue is the primary cause. I would inspect the new filter for sediment. The tank can have sediment in it that will require a professional cleaning and sealing to get it back where it needs to be. I would first double check this.
Then move inward to the carb and inspect the fuel level in the front bowl through the sight glass and the same on the rear with an inspection mirror. Ensure the car is parked on a level surface with the engine at idle. Ensure that you have adequate fuel supply at the carb and that the floats are in adjustment spec.
Have you inspected the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Ensure the spark plugs are NGK BR8EQ-14 and that there the cap and rotor have good contacts. Ensure the plug wires are routed correctly.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? This is a big one, especially since the car has been off. Ensure the vacuum lines are secure and routed correctly.[/Q
It's all fixed guys another old rotary brought back to life it was flooding the front rotor and the rear was sticking and no getting any fuel and we wete doing fuel testing ran the carb dry a couple times and all the sudden the needles seated and it run beatiful
06-04-21, 05:15 AM
#11
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Here's hoping you don't have to deal with the needles sticking in the future. I've seen a dry coating of light brown caramelized gas on the needles during carb rebuilds and can imagine the needles were not moving freely. Here's hoping that you'll be ok without rebuilding the carb. Maybe a little Seafoam in the tank will help keep it working properly.
06-04-21, 05:42 AM
#12
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Here's hoping you don't have to deal with the needles sticking in the future. I've seen a dry coating of light brown caramelized gas on the needles during carb rebuilds and can imagine the needles were not moving freely. Here's hoping that you'll be ok without rebuilding the carb. Maybe a little Seafoam in the tank will help keep it working properly.
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