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The power antenna (assuming original) on my 1982 GSL just failed in the up position.
On an old Saab 900 I had, the antenna section itself was replaceable independent of the motor housing, i.e., the antenna stalk had a plastic linear toothed gear that pulled the retractable antenna sections up and down and could be replaced by removing the retaining nut holding the antenna to the motor body, running the antenna out by turning it on, then feeding the end of a new one in and turning radio off to draw it in.
Are the one on the RX-7 similarly rebuildable?
If not, can anyone suggest a plug-and-play replacement?
I did many of these from vandalism,car washes,etc when these cars were a lot newer. For the amount of work involved,especially you being a 1st timer,i’d recommend complete replacement with an aftermarket part.
I second the replacement, I've got several Metro ones because I know eventually they won't be around.
Big hands are a disadvantage when doing this job!
I have a spare power antenna I just removed from mine ('84 -SE). Let me know if you want it. I'm getting rid of stuff to move and don't want to just throw it away.
I tried the replacement mast. It worked well for maybe a year, now it needs help to get up and down. The cable isn't broken, it just doesn't grip well and it slips.
I have rebuilt a couple of these over the years; the system is a bit weak, but if you are a stickler for originality I suppose it is worth it. They never do seem to stay 100% reliable.
One of a few threads about fixing existing units. This one mainly pertains to the SA unit, but the FB's function in the same basic way. Normally, the motor does not go bad, the plastic cord inside gets hard and brittle and breaks.
I tried the replacement mast. It worked well for maybe a year, now it needs help to get up and down. The cable isn't broken, it just doesn't grip well and it slips.
I have"fixed" this condition on several cars by wiping complete extended mast down with acetone. A lot of gunk gets built up in the sheaves on sections of mast. Lightly dribble a light lubricant, i use CRC Powerlube,at top section of mast,letting it run down complete assembly and turn radio off/on several times to work mast up/down several times.A light application is all that's necessary. If you listen for it you will hear mast extending/retracting faster,noticeably less drag on motor/clutch. Lightly wipe excess lubricant from exposed sections of mast and body of car,it does not interact with painted surfaces..
I did this as part of procedure on new mast replacements,years ago was known as CRC 556 lube.
I use same lubricant on door hinges/latches once a year on my SE,do antenna mast at same time. I prefer to use this over the white grease i see sprayed/wiped on hinges,while this will lubricate hinges initially,it also attracts a lot of dirt/gunk and looks like crap and dries/hardens,prevents reapplication of grease getting to where it's needed unless its completely cleaned off. A light dribble at hinge pins/bushings all that's needed. The light surface tension of this lubricant gets pulled into pins/bushings,likewise with making its way into the small gaps between antenna mast sections and into copper sheaves inside.
Knock on wood,my antenna mast is original.
I wound up removing mine on my old car and replacing it with a cheap rubberized stubby one and absolutely hated it. Now that I have a wing on my car, I'm going to be deleting the hole with a 3D printed part (plug) and potentially doing an amplified antenna that I can mount in the car instead of needing to make a hole outside.
I bought a OEM spare that someone on this forum had lying around, so going to install that.
But once I get the failed one out -- replacing it looks to be an absolute bear unless you have the hands of a ten year-old -- I will try replacing it.
Yep, trying to keep it original, so no whips, stubs or internal amplified units, though the idea of an antenna "delete" plug sure would make the car look cleaner.
Any advise on removal/installation of a power unit before I get started and make the ritual offering of hand skin and blood to the classic car gods?
Remove complete right rear taillight assembly,take care with foam gasket and set aside. Makes it much easier to r&r complete antenna assembly. Back when these cars were new i got paid.6hr to replace a mast. Got good at it after doing a handful.
Wear work gloves to protect your hands...
They got all they’re getting out of me 30 years ago.
Have all the scars to prove it. Too many ER visits.
I started using crazy glue around then to be able to keep working,occasionally had to go for stitches anyway,superglue let me finish the job,sometimes the day.
My 1986 hb929 had same issue, i bought a new mast (ribbon) and replaced it very easily but then found the clear relay/timer thing had pooped itself!!
so i found at a wreckers a Volvo antenna, the motor can be remote mounted and then shaft is in a cord, works a treat, cost me like $20 and a hr to roughly mount it, will be mounted properly when i redo the boot area for my audio system. Don’t worry, the wiring is only like that in the pic to see if it would work.
being German made, it should outlast my car!!
i know its not a genuine replacement / fix, but it works well and from the outside no1 will ever notice.
Advise you have a new tail light gasket standing by. If the current one is of any vintage, they tend to tear when you pull the light assy away from the body. A quick soak of WD40 at the gasket might loosen it us enough for the Pull. On the flip-side, when you RE-install the light, lube the gasket with a thin film of good ol' axle/bearing grease to keep it from re-bonding to the body of the car. Good seal and makes a future removal a breeze...
Thanks for the advice. If I tear it, where can I get a new one?
If you're on Facebook look up Fibremaz, he's in Australia but makes repro tail light gaskets and a lot of other parts for our cars. I've bought several pieces from him over the years.