Odyssey of a '83 RX7 noob
#26
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Back to the exhaust leak issue. I removed the exhaust manifold so I could see the intake area better from the bottom.
The old housings:
I seem to have some extra exhaust ports...hmmm
The old housings:
I seem to have some extra exhaust ports...hmmm
#27
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I had forgotten to mention, after the first startup last fall that the idle was so bad initially. My buddy and I traced it to a bad shutter/coaster valve that we plugged with electrical tape in the air cleaner. I ordered a replacement part from Ontario Mazda and installed it, removing the tape. Better...
Also noticed some slight leaking around the coolant level sensor, which i slightly tightened, which worsened the leak. Took it out and the plastic threads were mushed in. Put some teflon tape on and reinstalled. I was using the copper washer that came with the rad...is this a no no? Another part with washer ordered from Blackdragon.
Also, not being familiar with the fan clutch, I assumed that maybe it was bad, since it started up and always ran with the engine..is this normal? Seemed excessive at higher RPM. I don't have a timing light, or compression tester (I would like to obtain these but no clue where to get some good ones) Anyways, the Blackdragon catalog shows 79-83 fan clutch for $139.95, then 84-85 12A for $329.95. WTF is with the pricing difference? What's the difference between these 12A's? I ordered the 83, and when I received it, it looks different then my original..the element is a spiral, whereas mine has the strip, like the pic in their catalog. I'm getting the feeling the 83's are some sort of bastardized, in-between year with early and later parts thrown in.
Parts received from Blackdragon. When I called, and from the catalog, sounded like I would need to order bushings for the idler arm, but it was already assembled, greased. Oh well, spare bushings. Also ordered the carb rebuild kit for next winters carb rebuild project. And a shiny catalog for the throne room!
Some pics from May 4th after a bath:
My apologies if I'm posting pics like there's no tomorrow.
Also noticed some slight leaking around the coolant level sensor, which i slightly tightened, which worsened the leak. Took it out and the plastic threads were mushed in. Put some teflon tape on and reinstalled. I was using the copper washer that came with the rad...is this a no no? Another part with washer ordered from Blackdragon.
Also, not being familiar with the fan clutch, I assumed that maybe it was bad, since it started up and always ran with the engine..is this normal? Seemed excessive at higher RPM. I don't have a timing light, or compression tester (I would like to obtain these but no clue where to get some good ones) Anyways, the Blackdragon catalog shows 79-83 fan clutch for $139.95, then 84-85 12A for $329.95. WTF is with the pricing difference? What's the difference between these 12A's? I ordered the 83, and when I received it, it looks different then my original..the element is a spiral, whereas mine has the strip, like the pic in their catalog. I'm getting the feeling the 83's are some sort of bastardized, in-between year with early and later parts thrown in.
Parts received from Blackdragon. When I called, and from the catalog, sounded like I would need to order bushings for the idler arm, but it was already assembled, greased. Oh well, spare bushings. Also ordered the carb rebuild kit for next winters carb rebuild project. And a shiny catalog for the throne room!
Some pics from May 4th after a bath:
My apologies if I'm posting pics like there's no tomorrow.
#28
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Those extra exhaust ports are due to the housings being from 80 and earlier, when they still used the thermal reactor. There are a few ways to deal with them. Some will fill those ports with JB weld. I prefer to make a 1/8"-1/4" plate that matches the exhaust gasket, and use that with 2 gaskets.
The small ports are located outside of where the manifold fits, and will always burn the gasket out after a short time, if not blocked.
Another way to deal with them, is switching to a RB header. Not stock, but RB headers are made to block those ports, if they exist.
The small ports are located outside of where the manifold fits, and will always burn the gasket out after a short time, if not blocked.
Another way to deal with them, is switching to a RB header. Not stock, but RB headers are made to block those ports, if they exist.
#29
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Those extra exhaust ports are due to the housings being from 80 and earlier, when they still used the thermal reactor. There are a few ways to deal with them. Some will fill those ports with JB weld. I prefer to make a 1/8"-1/4" plate that matches the exhaust gasket, and use that with 2 gaskets.
The small ports are located outside of where the manifold fits, and will always burn the gasket out after a short time, if not blocked.
Another way to deal with them, is switching to a RB header. Not stock, but RB headers are made to block those ports, if they exist.
The small ports are located outside of where the manifold fits, and will always burn the gasket out after a short time, if not blocked.
Another way to deal with them, is switching to a RB header. Not stock, but RB headers are made to block those ports, if they exist.
On another note, while removing the manifold, noticed some coolant leaking from the water pump, so I may soon be draining the coolant and removing the pump to check the weep hole, and go from there...
#31
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Last post to bring this odyssey to it's current state.
Last Friday, the wife and I went to visit her parents down near Browns Line, Lakeshore, west of Toronto, in the 7. When we left, I quickly stopped at Ontario Mazda for my replacement vent grills ($12 for left/right new grills!). Then we stopped in Richmond Hill at the Lone Star near 16th and Yonge for some eats. I parked in the second row, no cars on that side. By the time we left, the lot was filling up.
Anyhow, this past Saturday, I'm admiring the car in the driveway...and I'm looking at the rear driver side...hmm, something not right..was it like that before?
I open the hatch and removed the interior side housing. Used a wooden dowl and hammer to pound it out somewhat..not perfect, but somewhat better now
So..the GTA is full of ignorant asswipes, and apparently I should have got personalized plates that say HIT ME. Guess I'll just drive the car up and down the driveway from now on. **** I hate people!!!!
Last Friday, the wife and I went to visit her parents down near Browns Line, Lakeshore, west of Toronto, in the 7. When we left, I quickly stopped at Ontario Mazda for my replacement vent grills ($12 for left/right new grills!). Then we stopped in Richmond Hill at the Lone Star near 16th and Yonge for some eats. I parked in the second row, no cars on that side. By the time we left, the lot was filling up.
Anyhow, this past Saturday, I'm admiring the car in the driveway...and I'm looking at the rear driver side...hmm, something not right..was it like that before?
I open the hatch and removed the interior side housing. Used a wooden dowl and hammer to pound it out somewhat..not perfect, but somewhat better now
So..the GTA is full of ignorant asswipes, and apparently I should have got personalized plates that say HIT ME. Guess I'll just drive the car up and down the driveway from now on. **** I hate people!!!!
#32
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In my experience, welding on a cast iron manifold is iffy, at best. Due to the heat the manifold is exposed to every time the engine is running, it has become more brittle than when it was new. This complicates the welding, and reduces the success rate. Especially given the fact that it will continue to be exposed to high heat after welding.
Cutting the plate takes a little less skill than welding cast iron, and has a much higher success rate.
Water pump dripping from a weep hole. Been there, done that. Replacement pumps are cheap, compared to resealing the engine from an overheat. Good catch.
Oh, and I too hate it when people have no regard for others belongings, as was evidenced by the woman backing into your car, and just driving away.
Cutting the plate takes a little less skill than welding cast iron, and has a much higher success rate.
Water pump dripping from a weep hole. Been there, done that. Replacement pumps are cheap, compared to resealing the engine from an overheat. Good catch.
Oh, and I too hate it when people have no regard for others belongings, as was evidenced by the woman backing into your car, and just driving away.
#38
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Update on the exhaust manifold. Seems to be working great so far.
There was a meet last Sunday at Sherway Gardens in Toronto. I bathed the baby, and used this tire lettering paint to see how it would look. Not happy with the ratio of lettering to blackwall on the rears, and its started to flake, most likely because I didn't prep the tires properly. Had to dab the pen as opposed to strokes to fill in nicely. Also touched up the fronts with the pen.
So she's coming along. Been having issues cranking the engine with the starter. More often than not the starter motor won't catch. Took the solenoid off and performed two of the three tests from the FSM using alligator clip wires, and seemed good (oh yea, make sure to disconnect the neg terminal on the battery before removing starter..pretty sparks...lazy dumbass ) So maybe a replacement starter is in the works for me. Also disconnected the hot start assist motor for now. I believe it's working, but it makes a squealing sound when it kicks in.
Also discovered one of the horns no worky worky
And lastly, I've been noticing that when at a stop light, the battery gauge will fluctuate between 12 to 14 volts, and the other day, I held down the power window switches simultaneously and noticed a substantial drain on the power. New Alternator perhaps?
There was a meet last Sunday at Sherway Gardens in Toronto. I bathed the baby, and used this tire lettering paint to see how it would look. Not happy with the ratio of lettering to blackwall on the rears, and its started to flake, most likely because I didn't prep the tires properly. Had to dab the pen as opposed to strokes to fill in nicely. Also touched up the fronts with the pen.
So she's coming along. Been having issues cranking the engine with the starter. More often than not the starter motor won't catch. Took the solenoid off and performed two of the three tests from the FSM using alligator clip wires, and seemed good (oh yea, make sure to disconnect the neg terminal on the battery before removing starter..pretty sparks...lazy dumbass ) So maybe a replacement starter is in the works for me. Also disconnected the hot start assist motor for now. I believe it's working, but it makes a squealing sound when it kicks in.
Also discovered one of the horns no worky worky
And lastly, I've been noticing that when at a stop light, the battery gauge will fluctuate between 12 to 14 volts, and the other day, I held down the power window switches simultaneously and noticed a substantial drain on the power. New Alternator perhaps?
#39
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Yeah, the stock alternator is pretty weak. Go with an FC one (don't remember which year is better, but someone will chime in) and it will keep the stock look for you. You may want to add the relay modification for your power windows and also clean out your window switches, They'll have quite a bit of carbon build up in them. As far as the horn, provided that the connections are fine, quite often adjusting the screw on the back will get it honking again. This will also allow you to adjust the pitch.
Beautiful car! I've always loved the solar gold. I plan on painting mine, probably next year. I'm still trying to decide whether to stay with the gold or changer 'er up. Looking forward to seeing your car in person.
Beautiful car! I've always loved the solar gold. I plan on painting mine, probably next year. I'm still trying to decide whether to stay with the gold or changer 'er up. Looking forward to seeing your car in person.
Last edited by Bass; 05-27-08 at 01:51 PM.
#40
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Yeah, the stock alternator is pretty weak. Go with an FC one (don't remember which year is better, but someone will chime in) and it will keep the stock look for you. You may want to add the relay modification for your power windows and also clean out your window switches, They'll have quite a bit of carbon build up in them. As far as the horn, provided that the connections are fine, quite often adjusting the screw on the back will get it honking again. This will also allow you to adjust the pitch.
Beautiful car! I've always loved the solar gold. I plan on painting mine, probably next year. I'm still trying to decide whether to stay with the gold or changer 'er up. Looking forward to seeing your car in person.
Beautiful car! I've always loved the solar gold. I plan on painting mine, probably next year. I'm still trying to decide whether to stay with the gold or changer 'er up. Looking forward to seeing your car in person.
As far as the colour, it's paint code M5, or Maya Gold. To me, it appears more of a deeper brownish tone, versus the yellower solar gold.
#42
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Omg, I stumbled on this thread and read it from the 1st post on. I first got goose bumps as I read thru it till I got to the "DADS RX7" picture then my eyes watered up. Awesome awesome job.
#43
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good build, good pic's nice car all around,
check your ground to the main block could be the cause for the starter issue, if the ground isn't good can't get enough the juice to and from the starter.
good to see more Canadians in fb's
check your ground to the main block could be the cause for the starter issue, if the ground isn't good can't get enough the juice to and from the starter.
good to see more Canadians in fb's
#44
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man, talk about a story, i love the details and all the extremes you went to keep this baby alive "Judas Priest cranked on the tape deck, damn midwest heat flowing through the open windows" gosh...makes me wanna get in my 7 and .....see where it wants to take me...goosebumps!!!
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