Making old parts look new again :)
09-23-09, 10:58 AM
#51
Nice work guys...but I'm several years ahead of you: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/i-love-restoring-stuff-549854/
LOL
By the way...shame on you guys that cleaned up your alternators but didn't take them apart to paint the center section!
Rich
LOL
By the way...shame on you guys that cleaned up your alternators but didn't take them apart to paint the center section!
Rich
(Just messin with you)
I was going to paint my rotor and stator red, but didn't have any appropriate paint so it just got re-blacked. I polished the slip rings, too, & cleaned all the carbon crud from around the brushes; seemed to up the output a smidge.
My sticker fell off years ago.
09-23-09, 03:25 PM
#52
I would have taken mine apart and painted it if I knew I was going to be this far in 
Well, I started on the dreaded drivers side today. I took out the battery tray, partly because it is in terrible shape and would need a wheelin. One of the bolt heads snapped off, the closest one to the headlight motor. I am thinking of getting a battery relocation kit and stuffing it into the trunk area between the back seat and rear strut tower bar. I have seen some 2nd gen miata batterys, and they are pretty compact.
Battery tray:
Before attacking the crud. Battery tray is out:
I see rust down there! I gave it a go for a minute to attack most of it with the brass wheel. It is on its last leg, almost all the brass wire is gone on one side
Makes it hard when it bounces around. Have to go pick up a brass brush to get the tight spaces... or use the grill brush
Got some of the surface rust out. Need to get some rustoleum after this stuff.
Starting to clean near the battery tray area. The amount of dirt, grime and rust is making the remote battery kit sound better and better..
Well, I started on the dreaded drivers side today. I took out the battery tray, partly because it is in terrible shape and would need a wheelin. One of the bolt heads snapped off, the closest one to the headlight motor. I am thinking of getting a battery relocation kit and stuffing it into the trunk area between the back seat and rear strut tower bar. I have seen some 2nd gen miata batterys, and they are pretty compact.
Battery tray:
Before attacking the crud. Battery tray is out:
I see rust down there! I gave it a go for a minute to attack most of it with the brass wheel. It is on its last leg, almost all the brass wire is gone on one side
Makes it hard when it bounces around. Have to go pick up a brass brush to get the tight spaces... or use the grill brush Got some of the surface rust out. Need to get some rustoleum after this stuff.
Starting to clean near the battery tray area. The amount of dirt, grime and rust is making the remote battery kit sound better and better..
09-23-09, 03:31 PM
#53
The part I circled seems to be stained or something? I scrubbed it pretty hard and it will not go away.
I pulled the coil off and started pulling the main harness' back. Starting to get a little cleaner!
Last picture, I didn't really do a great job here. I ran out of the cleaner, so I just got the major junk off.
The harness is held down by these zip ties that anchor inside holes. Can you get these from Autozone or Napa?
I pulled the coil off and started pulling the main harness' back. Starting to get a little cleaner!
Last picture, I didn't really do a great job here. I ran out of the cleaner, so I just got the major junk off.
The harness is held down by these zip ties that anchor inside holes. Can you get these from Autozone or Napa?
09-23-09, 04:12 PM
#54
OK, last batch of pictures for now. I snipped the wires from the passenger side that I did not need.
I left about 4 inches of the wire so when I remove the harness I will know which ones to disconnect from the plug. Plus with the extra wire just hanging there cut open, it will make me want to fix it faster (makes me feel OCD almost). The 2 or 3 wires I am holding seem to have been spliced together with one end going to a ground. I will extend the wires a bit and loom them back with the headlight bundle, and hide that under the lip like it sort of is right now.
Also this hardline I believe goes to the charcoal canister. I will be removing it and plugging it where it goes into the tank. Don't want any fumes!
I left about 4 inches of the wire so when I remove the harness I will know which ones to disconnect from the plug. Plus with the extra wire just hanging there cut open, it will make me want to fix it faster (makes me feel OCD almost). The 2 or 3 wires I am holding seem to have been spliced together with one end going to a ground. I will extend the wires a bit and loom them back with the headlight bundle, and hide that under the lip like it sort of is right now.
Also this hardline I believe goes to the charcoal canister. I will be removing it and plugging it where it goes into the tank. Don't want any fumes!
09-24-09, 05:36 PM
#56
Started tearing out the main harness. I went to get the headlight plug from the back of the headlight, but the covers would not come off. The heads of the screws looked like they were beginning to strip so I stopped. Had to put the headlights in "sleepy eye" mode to get the plug out from behind it.
That's the bulk of it. I am hoping for atleast half of the bulk to be gone when I depin the harness OH MY GOD LOOK AT THAT SCRATCH.
09-24-09, 06:14 PM
#57
So it looks like I will have to pull the harness through the firewall. The large rubber gromit, is there a replacement for it? I might not even route it the stock way when I get it all depinned. Would anyone like for me to do a step by step on the depin?
09-25-09, 03:02 AM
#59
Careful Stu - the wall grommet is NOT available - only came with engine harness! You don't want to damage that Bad Boy...
And - much of the harness continues into the dash area, as in: all one unit. Unless you are a re-wire genius you may be going down a black hole Bro!
Q: Why are you pulling the WHOLE main harness?? If your just trying to eliminate the unnecessary wires, better to dissect the harness there in the engine bay and pull thru (or just chop) the dead ends...
As for the area under the battery try - that is rust-central in the eng comp. I ground out the bad stuff, used the POR15 Metal Ready to zinc it up and prep the exposed metal, then hit it with POR15 (black). Nuke proof, loves to stick to rust and kills any outbreaks. No prob with color since its under the tray anyway, but can easily be painted. Did mine 4 yrs ago - as new since.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
And - much of the harness continues into the dash area, as in: all one unit. Unless you are a re-wire genius you may be going down a black hole Bro!
Q: Why are you pulling the WHOLE main harness?? If your just trying to eliminate the unnecessary wires, better to dissect the harness there in the engine bay and pull thru (or just chop) the dead ends...
As for the area under the battery try - that is rust-central in the eng comp. I ground out the bad stuff, used the POR15 Metal Ready to zinc it up and prep the exposed metal, then hit it with POR15 (black). Nuke proof, loves to stick to rust and kills any outbreaks. No prob with color since its under the tray anyway, but can easily be painted. Did mine 4 yrs ago - as new since.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
09-25-09, 06:52 AM
#60
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Careful Stu - the wall grommet is NOT available - only came with engine harness! You don't want to damage that Bad Boy...
And - much of the harness continues into the dash area, as in: all one unit. Unless you are a re-wire genius you may be going down a black hole Bro!
Q: Why are you pulling the WHOLE main harness?? If your just trying to eliminate the unnecessary wires, better to dissect the harness there in the engine bay and pull thru (or just chop) the dead ends...
As for the area under the battery try - that is rust-central in the eng comp. I ground out the bad stuff, used the POR15 Metal Ready to zinc it up and prep the exposed metal, then hit it with POR15 (black). Nuke proof, loves to stick to rust and kills any outbreaks. No prob with color since its under the tray anyway, but can easily be painted. Did mine 4 yrs ago - as new since.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
And - much of the harness continues into the dash area, as in: all one unit. Unless you are a re-wire genius you may be going down a black hole Bro!
Q: Why are you pulling the WHOLE main harness?? If your just trying to eliminate the unnecessary wires, better to dissect the harness there in the engine bay and pull thru (or just chop) the dead ends...
As for the area under the battery try - that is rust-central in the eng comp. I ground out the bad stuff, used the POR15 Metal Ready to zinc it up and prep the exposed metal, then hit it with POR15 (black). Nuke proof, loves to stick to rust and kills any outbreaks. No prob with color since its under the tray anyway, but can easily be painted. Did mine 4 yrs ago - as new since.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
I agree. When I did mine the main harness was the only thing I didn't remove from the vehicle. However, I did remove the one that goes through the other side of the firewall and depinned everything I didn't need, then added pins for the wires for my alarm system. I think I did a step by step on depinning several years ago.
Rich
09-25-09, 09:59 AM
#61
It's a good thing you guys were around, I was about to yoink that thing out this morning. My original plan was to pull it from the firewall and route it through the frame rails for ultimate stealth. I already had the wiring routing made up and ready. If I am to be going through the firewall, I have to find another way to hide the huge bundle. I was pretty sure I would have to lengthen about half the wires, so I had sauder (however it's spelled) shrinkwrap and electrical tape handy.
09-25-09, 02:26 PM
#62
Lives on the Forum
Here is a link to my thread on my engine by cleaning/de-cluttering. Shows some of what I removed, and most of what I relocated. Might give you a few ideas. 
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/other-finally-some-pics-441703/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/other-finally-some-pics-441703/
09-25-09, 02:41 PM
#63
I will check that out as soon as this wiring download is finished Kentetsu
Here is where I am today, I got the harness pulled out up to the firewall gromit:
Only took me about 30 minutes to take all the sticky rotted electrical tape off. It looks like someone has been in here before, or maybe the factory has shoddy people working that shift. Anyways, I found another way around hiding the harness. When I was taking everything off, most of the loom is still good. I will clean it, then run my wiring through the drivers fender. It's a quick 90* turn right from the firewall exit:
Here is where I am today, I got the harness pulled out up to the firewall gromit:
Only took me about 30 minutes to take all the sticky rotted electrical tape off. It looks like someone has been in here before, or maybe the factory has shoddy people working that shift. Anyways, I found another way around hiding the harness. When I was taking everything off, most of the loom is still good. I will clean it, then run my wiring through the drivers fender. It's a quick 90* turn right from the firewall exit:
09-25-09, 03:16 PM
#64
Here is one branch of the wiring tree. This houses the fusible links, coil triggers/power, alternator wiring and headlight.
This little bit I am holding was where the Fusible links are. I have replaced mine with bus fuses. I plan on having this bolted to the battery box when I relocate it, since it draws its power directly from the terminal.
Alternator charging wire. One of the few that will remain on the harness:
Here are the coil wires and what I believe to be the alternator plug in. I will leave the YG wire for my MSD tach signal and the BW for signal and power.
One question: I have no clue what this is. I believe it to be the oscillator or something? It has overspray on it and I cannot read what little writing it has.
This little bit I am holding was where the Fusible links are. I have replaced mine with bus fuses. I plan on having this bolted to the battery box when I relocate it, since it draws its power directly from the terminal.
Alternator charging wire. One of the few that will remain on the harness:
Here are the coil wires and what I believe to be the alternator plug in. I will leave the YG wire for my MSD tach signal and the BW for signal and power.
One question: I have no clue what this is. I believe it to be the oscillator or something? It has overspray on it and I cannot read what little writing it has.
09-25-09, 03:20 PM
#65
Looks like the last picture is the oscillator. I will take that out too since I hear it just makes that dreaded beeping sound and has a habit of going bad. I read up also that if I remove it, the warning lights will still come on (when necessary) but not make the dinging noise. Works for me.
09-25-09, 03:37 PM
#66
You got it right Stu, that the oscillator and yes, you don't need it unless you are a purist (I still have mine and it works). Mazda even put out a TSB on it back in the day telling their mechanics to just unplug it if it was acting up, I have a copy of the TSB around somewhere.
You sure are getting ambitious with the wires. Are you sure you can get everything back together the right way?
You sure are getting ambitious with the wires. Are you sure you can get everything back together the right way?
09-25-09, 03:41 PM
#67
You got it right Stu, that the oscillator and yes, you don't need it unless you are a purist (I still have mine and it works). Mazda even put out a TSB on it back in the day telling their mechanics to just unplug it if it was acting up, I have a copy of the TSB around somewhere.
You sure are getting ambitious with the wires. Are you sure you can get everything back together the right way?
You sure are getting ambitious with the wires. Are you sure you can get everything back together the right way?
09-25-09, 05:47 PM
#68
Well I started going through the harness. I clipped the ozzy and traced the wires back to the firewall. It went into the firewall gromit (which I clipped) and into a relay or something. It is the one behind the big silver one on the right:
What are the other relays for? I think one was for the AC, atleast when I clipped the wires from the passenger side of the firewall it led to a relay over here. I'll do some more digging a little later.
I did see a lot of wiring look like this once I took off the massive amount of electrical tape:
And here are the wires clipped so far.
It is a lot more in person than in the picture. All I took off so far were the ozzy wires and the passenger side harness (ran the windshield pump and other things which I no longer use). Another wire I just remembered that I have to get rid of is the nikki bowl vent since I will be running a weber (If he ever answers his cell or WORK phone *cough cough*).
Nice little bundle here. Tomorrow I will map out what I have left and if there is anything more I need gone. I wouldn't mind getting rid of the relays near the firewall or atleast move them to another location.
More fun tomorrow!
What are the other relays for? I think one was for the AC, atleast when I clipped the wires from the passenger side of the firewall it led to a relay over here. I'll do some more digging a little later.
I did see a lot of wiring look like this once I took off the massive amount of electrical tape:
And here are the wires clipped so far.
It is a lot more in person than in the picture. All I took off so far were the ozzy wires and the passenger side harness (ran the windshield pump and other things which I no longer use). Another wire I just remembered that I have to get rid of is the nikki bowl vent since I will be running a weber (If he ever answers his cell or WORK phone *cough cough*).
Nice little bundle here. Tomorrow I will map out what I have left and if there is anything more I need gone. I wouldn't mind getting rid of the relays near the firewall or atleast move them to another location.
More fun tomorrow!
09-25-09, 10:27 PM
#69
I just got done re-taping all my wiring harnesses under the hood. Just use paint thinner or alcohol to remove the old tape residue. This will help the new tape hold better. Even if you use wire looms, I would still suggest re-taping the wires in bundles then put the loom over that.
09-26-09, 02:41 AM
#70
I just got done re-taping all my wiring harnesses under the hood. Just use paint thinner or alcohol to remove the old tape residue. This will help the new tape hold better. Even if you use wire looms, I would still suggest re-taping the wires in bundles then put the loom over that.
09-26-09, 02:44 AM
#71
Hey Stu
Eastwood sells 2 versions of really nice, OEM -type automotive electrical tape, one is adhesive, the other is basically just a wrap (no adhesive), so you do a wire wind with the non-adhesive then anchor the start and finish of the wrap with the adhesive version - this is how a lot of the old-school harnesses were wrapped I believe. Both versions are much better quality than plain store-bought tape, really nice to work with - assuming you are even going to USE tape in the wrap.
Guess I state the obvious but make sure you put some sort of rubber trim, etc around what ever hole you run the loom thru to avoid chafing the harness over time...
yer a brave man!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Eastwood sells 2 versions of really nice, OEM -type automotive electrical tape, one is adhesive, the other is basically just a wrap (no adhesive), so you do a wire wind with the non-adhesive then anchor the start and finish of the wrap with the adhesive version - this is how a lot of the old-school harnesses were wrapped I believe. Both versions are much better quality than plain store-bought tape, really nice to work with - assuming you are even going to USE tape in the wrap.
Guess I state the obvious but make sure you put some sort of rubber trim, etc around what ever hole you run the loom thru to avoid chafing the harness over time...
yer a brave man!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
09-26-09, 01:27 PM
#72
Hey Stu
Eastwood sells 2 versions of really nice, OEM -type automotive electrical tape, one is adhesive, the other is basically just a wrap (no adhesive), so you do a wire wind with the non-adhesive then anchor the start and finish of the wrap with the adhesive version - this is how a lot of the old-school harnesses were wrapped I believe. Both versions are much better quality than plain store-bought tape, really nice to work with - assuming you are even going to USE tape in the wrap.
Guess I state the obvious but make sure you put some sort of rubber trim, etc around what ever hole you run the loom thru to avoid chafing the harness over time...
yer a brave man!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Eastwood sells 2 versions of really nice, OEM -type automotive electrical tape, one is adhesive, the other is basically just a wrap (no adhesive), so you do a wire wind with the non-adhesive then anchor the start and finish of the wrap with the adhesive version - this is how a lot of the old-school harnesses were wrapped I believe. Both versions are much better quality than plain store-bought tape, really nice to work with - assuming you are even going to USE tape in the wrap.
Guess I state the obvious but make sure you put some sort of rubber trim, etc around what ever hole you run the loom thru to avoid chafing the harness over time...
yer a brave man!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Fun fun, I might go out there and start up now.
09-26-09, 03:01 PM
#73
Ok so I just went through the wiring diagram again for the drivers side relays. turns out I can get rid of them all!
There are supposed to be 4 relays, here I have 3. There are 2 on the right and 1 on the left. The one I am missing, I filled in with a blue box
Looks like I will not need any of them!
There are supposed to be 4 relays, here I have 3. There are 2 on the right and 1 on the left. The one I am missing, I filled in with a blue box
Looks like I will not need any of them!
09-26-09, 03:25 PM
#74
So I started snipping wires, and I found one plug that was grounded to the AC Relay 2 I had. Good thing I didn't decide to snip it, it went to the brake fluid sensor!
But I got the relays out and the wiring:
And here are the 2 harnesses harness's harness' however it goes.
But I got the relays out and the wiring:
And here are the 2 harnesses harness's harness' however it goes.
09-26-09, 03:49 PM
#75
So on the last pictures, the harness on the left, I believe it runs to the transmission. The harness in the 82 wiring diagram is X-10. The big BW wire I assume is for power, correct? I can't find where it goes to, and it is just laying there. This is the first problem I have ran into