Oh, you mean the seal for the air filter? Just used rubber contact cement. The air cleaner doesn't get all that hot.

Here's your paint info:

 

just weighing my options. In your opinion, if I powder coated the bottom and painted the top will the colors look close to the same? Either way I'm going to have to powder blast my air cleaner. After my snorkel broke years back it was duck taped on and the heat from the engine left adhesive residue behind once I switched to zip ties.
Also how will you be restoring your other cleaner to the original color?

 

I've never had anything powder-coated, so I'm not in a position to judge.

The original paint on the air cleaner is VERY tough stuff; I went to bare metal in part because of the surface rust that had to be cleaned up, and getting all the old paint off was a serious chore, even using aircraft stripper. Several evenings' work. I think it's an epoxy paint of some kind.

If/when I get around to the other air cleaner, I'll likely strip it down, prime it,and paint it with that same paint pictured above. Really got an excellent finish using it, on the interior of the other one.

 

Man just after getting my first car i want to clean it up so bad like the pics i have pleanty of things that can be cleaned but just have no idea were to start... dont wanna hurt my 1979 rx7... haha

 

Just pick a place to make a clean spot, and work outward. I started off just wanting to clean out my engine bay a bit.

But beware; once begun, there is no end.

 

nice i plan on starting to do that next week. can u also do that cleaning stuff like the the exhaust mine is all rusted

 

Back from the dead - it's ok, everyone should read this thread again. Divindriver or others, I got a question. Up here in Kanuckland, I can't seem to find a real brass wire wheel. I found steel wire wheels plated with brass. Is that what you used?

 

I can find real brass wheels at industrial supply houses like mcFadden-Dale, but they are serious money - - %50 or so for fine ones.

Thus far I only own steel wheels for the bench grinder; brass wheels are limited to the Dremel size for now in my garage.

 

[QUOTE= I used Krylon crystal clear, not a heat paint but holds up well and unlike some automotive clear coats I've tried it really does produce a durable crystal clear coating.
[/QUOTE]

I've used the Krylon for decades. Nothing out of any 'jiggle-can' is better. Just do NOT spray it (or other 'clears') on top of any of those (fake) chrome/aluminum paints. I also use the K-crystal clear on CLEAN, unmolested plastic lenses - ie: tail, parking, side-markers. Just make sure there is NO lint or other dirt.
Another alternative to that labour-intensive polishing of carbs, alternators, dists. is to use bright silver/argent enamel spray. I have used it on aluminum intakes (yes, V-8's) as well - with excellent results and, believe it or not, the regular argent spray will take the heat. My cross-overs never darken. Hard to believe but true. After coating aluminum parts (with the argent) THEN you clear them - if you wish - but NOT mandatory since the shine is adequate and durability also. Gasoline will NOT damage dried argent - sans clear coat - and no 'peeling' either. good luck.