rmauser

Hello again,
I'm going to replace the oil pan gasket in a month or so from now, when I'm ready for an oil change, and from what I've read, the engine has to be lifted up to allow enough room to unbolt/reinstall the pan. However, I don't have access to a hoist, but I do have a jack.
I haven't crawled under the car to look at this specifically, but I'm assuming the engine mounts will need to be disconnected.
Is there a legit location on the engine block or transmission to be able to jack up the engine to do that work?
Any advice from the wise before I blunder into this?
Any pitfalls re engine alignment?
Any question I should be asking that I'm not aware of?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Without a hoist, the only place for floor jack would be the trans center section. Not sure it would raise the front of the engine enough from that jacking point.

First get the car up on jack stands. Make sure they are not the flimsy ones. Next, remove the top nut from each motor mount. Put a 4x4 or a couple 2x4 on top of the jack head. Don't use one of those tiny floor jacks. It needs to be the big floor jack. Place the jack under the flat spot of the trans near the trans trans plug. Jack up a little and check clearances between the upper trans and tran tunnel. Also check to see if the pan will clear the cross member. Jack a little more and check things again. Your only looking for a couple inches. Also check the radiator hoses to make sure they are not stressed.

Like I said, I'm not sure the front of the engine will get high enough before the trans has interference issues with the trans tunnel. Getting the pan out is the easy part. Getting it back in with sealant and/or a gasket + sealant is the hard part. You don't need a gasket, the Honda bond will work. I like to use both. Your choice.

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

Other posts I've read said that just unbolting the idler arm from the frame allows the center link to drop enough to remove the pan.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Oops, forgot about that part. It's required to get the clearance. When removing the idler arm, just remove the big nut that holds the center link. This way you can also put in new grease.

ATC529R

jacking from way back there on the tranny wouldn't give a lot of leverage though would it?

why not put a board under the main front pulley, jack from there and support at the tranny and front pulley?

rmauser

Thanks guys!
I'll have to take a look at the idler arm/center link. That sounds like an easy way. .
I'm also looking at "engine hoist bars", or if I use a jack, maybe also doing a DIY safety bar above the engine...

LongDuck

Step 1: Drain the engine oil.

Seriously, though - you don't need a ton of clearance to do this in the car. I've used 2×4s on top of jacks to lift the engine enough to get it done. You'll know how much clearance you need based on the tools you're using. Don't make it harder than it is, just know that you're not trying to lift the engine out of the bay - just enough to make room to work. Be careful,

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

I've just removed the (2) 14m headed bolts that hold the whole Idler arm in place. You can then rotate and drop it along with the center link that spans across the pan. You still will have to rotate and twist the pan to get it past the pickup tube on the inside and slide it out and off to the rear.

I've ran across a couple cars that finagling the pan still wouldn't quite get it to clear and I needed to remove the 2 bolts that attach the pick up tube to the bottom of the iron first. On those, you'll need to get it all back up there and re mount the pickup tube while holding the pan somewhat in place. The pickup tube is directional, so make sure you note its orientation before removing.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

A tree and a come along will work.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

^this. i've pulled many engines, not just rotary, with a tree.