Carl, I have the Koyo Radiator and a dual electric fan from a Contour SVT (3400cfm, according to ‘sources’. Replaced the electric motors with new oem Bosch units. 180amp alternator and PWM controlled with a Mercedes controller. Triggered by a Haltech. The great thing about the MB controller is if it looses signal, it defaults to full on.

 

These vents were on the hood when I bought the SE two years ago.. Looks like from a 280zx.. Used hoods are 300-400 from a junkyard..

 

I think the first priority is to make sure that the air coming through the grill is controlled so that it can only go through the radiator/oil cooler cores. Gaps in the shrouding and or missing shrouds that allow the air to bypass the radiator/oil cooler cores will impact engine cooling. Spend time and energy in this area first. Any gaps should be filled. I like to use this stuff to fill gaps - https://www.menards.com/main/hardwar...57821&ipos=2AC

Cars made in the 60-80s (with the exception of the RX7 and some other Asian makes) had almost no ducting between the grill and the radiator. And believe it or not, those cars and trucks developed over heating issues especially once emission equipment was introduced. Now look under the hood of any car made in the last 10-15 years and you will see improvements in this area. None of the cars I have owned that were made in this century have had cooling issues.

I also think the OE under tray is a part of cooling system ducting and would not recommend its removal. The air flowing under the car/under tray will be moving faster than the air flowing through the radiator. This will create an air pressure difference between the two columns of air which will encourage more air flow through the radiator core. Which, by the way, is what a properly placed hood vent does, only on top of the car.

 

since we're talking hoods, and I'm sorry if I derail the thread......

mine has a little bit if a lip on the drivers side, which I am sure is caused by the hood support. Anyone had any experience like this and the easiest way to bring it back to form?

also, I do have the front of mine properly channeled to the radiator. NO air get's through there w/o going through the radiator and I have no cooling issues in S. FL heat. Other than the under hood temps are hot, as you can just feel the hood and tell it's hotter than your average car. So, if channeling the air to the radiator and cooling is the main function of the under pan....why not just leave it off to let a little fresh air in/filter exhaust heat out?

 

Removing the under trail will result in higher heat in the engine bay. We have countless examples of folks experiencing this on the forum over the years. Just query on overheating and see how many had the lower pan missing or off. I know from experience it's needed. Tried running without it for bit just to see and the temp gauge went from 1/4-1/3 to almost 1/2 without it.

 

more pics, same car